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Step 1 - disconnect the battery, negative first. Step 2a - Disconnect the Air Intake (engine side of the filter) using the flathead screwdriver, also disconnect the MAP sensor's electronics. Steps 2b - Disconnect the Air Intake from the throttle body - flat head screwdriver, the other 2 points (red arrows on right) simply pull apart. Step 3 - Using Channel locks or pliers pinch the upper radiator hose fastener to remove the hose. Step 4 - The plastic covering has 6 plastic screws and grommets (circled below) 2 are located towards the engine side (circled) connect this covering to the fan shroud. The front four connect the covering to the frame. Step 5 - There are 2 bolts, 1 each located on the fan shroud. Looking from the passenger side towards the front of the truck you can see the one circled. The driver side bolt is located in the same area but below the Air Intake filter compartment. Loosen these 2 bolts, but do not total extract. Until Step 6 is complete. Step 6 - Using the specialty tools, attach the wider of the "wrenches" to your 1/2" drive break bar and attach that to the fan pulley. The other sp. Tool will attach directly to the bronze-colored "nut" in the picture below. Turn counter-clockwise to remove. Once the fan is detached, finish removing the shroud bolts and pull both pieces out together. (I found that easier than trying to remove each separately.) Step 7 - Using the 10mm sockets, loosen the four bolts of the fan pulley. This is easier with the belt on, applying pressure. Remove the sp. Tool from the 1/2" breaker bar and using only the break bar, fit it into the opening of the tension pulley. There's no need to jam it in, but make sure it's secure. Using the break bar, press down or clock-wise, this will loosen the belts from the fan pulley. Finally back out the 4 bolts to remove the pulley. (2 pic below show relieving tension and belt removed.) Step 8 - Using the 10mm socket, remove the 4 bolts to detach the water-pump from the engine. Once the bolts are out, you will probably need to use a hammer and a block of wood, or just a hammer to beat the water pump out of the engine. You need to use some common-sense here since the engine is aluminum, but a crisp shot from the left then the right then the left will eventually free the water-pump. Step 9 - Use the coarse side of the sponge to clean the water pump opening. The old rubber from the gasket may still remain. I used some of the brake cleaner and engine cleaner to clean the surrounding area as best I could on an 11 year old engine. Step 10 - Look how pretty! The new water-pump installed and bolted tight. The yellow plastic protector (pictured, your might be a different color) should be removed. Step 11- Bolt the pulley back in place, then using the break bar - loosen the tension pulley and re-loop the belt back along its original path. From this point, jump back to Step 7 and work your way back to Step 1 in reverse to re-assemble everything. Add Anti-Freeze and water mix to your engine and enjoy! A list of tools needed includes the following: * Channel locks or pliers * 8mm socket * 10mm socket * Sponge with scouring side (green) * Flat head screwdriver * Philips head screwdriver * Ford's specialty Fan clutch tool * 1/2" drive breaker bar (or at least a 3/8" to 1/2" drive adapter) * Brake clean or engine cleaner.

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โˆ™ 2008-11-13 10:26:03
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Q: How hard is it do to replace the water pump on a 1997 Ford F-150 5.4 liter.?
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