Modern water softeners automatically put water into the brine tank at the end of each regeneration. This water sits in the brine tank and dissolves some of the salt to create a very salty liquid called brine. This brine is sucked back into the water softener main tank during the next regeneration. The brine is used to "recharge" (sometimes called "regenerate") the water softener main tank. After the recharge, the softener can soften a set amount of water before it needs to be recharged again. Depending upon the size of the water softener, it can take between 2 and 8 gallons of brine per recharge. On most water softeners you can set the salt "dosage". Dosage is usually set in "lbs of salt". Each gallon of water will dissolve around 3 lbs of salt so if you set a dosage of 9 lbs, the softener will automatically add around 3 gallons of water to the brine tank after each regeneration.
Because it's needed to make the salt brine that is exchanged for hardness.
Remove it from the system and scrub it out with bleach or 'shock'.
There are two main causes of water backing up into a water softener brine tank. The injector assembly may be defective and not draw all of the brine out of the tank and then the timed brine refill will put back a predetermined amount of water, causing the level of brine to increase in the tank after each regeneration. The other cause may be a defective brine valve which has a slow leak after it closes and causes the tank to overfill.
The sodium in the salt reacts with the zeolite in the softener stripping it of the calcium when you regenerate the softener. When the softener is in service the calcium more readily replaces the sodium on the zeolite resin beads softening the water.
If your water softener timer and cycling functions seem to be working correctly, there are at least three more items to check: salt in the brine tank, clogged eductor nozzles, old resin For the water softener to work correctly, it needs to regenerate. Typically a household softener is set to regenerate every 3 to 7 days and most units are designed to regenerate at night when no one is using water. During regeneration, the softener will pull brine (very salty water) from the brine tank and rinse this brine through the softener resin tank slowly to "refresh" the resin beads inside the tank. If this process doesn't happen, the softener will deliver hard water. This process will fail if: there is no salt in the brine tank for the softener to pull out or if there is no water in the brine tank to dissolve the salt. At the end of each regeneration, the softener pumps water back into the brine tank so it will dissolve salt for the next regeneration. Things to check: 1) is there salt in your brine tank? 2) is there water in the brine tank before the regeneration starts? (usually 5-10 inches of water, depends upon the model and size of brine tank) You might not see the top surface of the water if you have lots of salt in the brine tank. 3) during the regeneration process, which typically runs 60-120 minutes, watch to make sure that the level of water draws down (slowly) and later fills back up. If the level is not going down and back up during regeneration, it is possible that the "eductor nozzle" is blocked. This is a small plastic component with a tiny hole in it that can easily become clogged. On almost all softeners it is quick and easy to remove the eductor nozzle, flush it with water and replace it. consult your owners guide. If there is salt in the brine tank and the water level is going up and down, and this softener is 5-10 years old or older, it is likely that the "ion exchange resin beads" inside the softener tank are 'dead'. A typical household softener has 0.5 to 2 cubic feet of resin beads inside the tank depending upon the model and the hardness of the water that is being treated. The tiny plastic ion echange beads in the tank get regenerated every few days, but after hundreds of regenerations, and/or exposure to high levels of impurities and/or chlorine they can 'wear out'. Replacing the beads is a messy job and you need to be careful in the process so you don't accidentally end up filling the pipes in your home with loose beads. Unless you're particularly handy, strong and have a way to suck out and replace the beads, it is probably best to hire a water softener dealer to test your resin beads and replace them if needed.
That is reject brine after cleaning of the settling tank. It's programmed for 3-4 times a week.
The brine valve is located in the brine tank in the 3 inch tube. Systems with brass control valves prior to the year 2000 do not have a brine valve in the tank. the air check is performed by the tri guard. ( clear plastic thing with the ball in attached to the valve body)
It is normal for water softeners to pump water into the salt tank at the end of each regeneration. This water dissolves some of the salt and this dissolved salt (called brine) is rinsed through the resin tank of the softener during the next regeneration. The amount of water needed for the regeneration depends upon how hard the incoming water is and how big the water softener is. Typically a household softener regenerates once every 3 to 7 days. Each gallon of water added to the brine tank will dissolve 3 lbs of salt. A small softener will consume between 4 and 12 lbs of salt per regeneration and a large household softener will consumer 8 to 24 lbs of salt. The easiest way to see if your softener is putting the right amount of water into the brine tank is to see how much salt it is using during each regeneration: start by measuring how high the level of salt (not the water) in the tank is above the bottom of the tank. Next, add one 40 lbs bag of salt and see how many inches higher the level of salt is now. Say it is 4 inches higher after you add the salt. that means that every one inch of height is equal to 10 lbs of salt. Now wait until after the next regeneration happens and recheck the height of the salt. If the salt drops 2" they you know your softener used 20 lbs of salt. If it is a small softener and is using 20lbs or more salt per regeneration then the system is using too much water. It is worth investigating if a component called the "brine valve" can be adjusted to reduce the amount of water added after each regeneration. If this is not possible then it could be that the softener has developed an internal mechanical fault such that it is not fully shutting-off the flow of water to the brine tank after each regeneration cycle has been completed for the softener's ion-exchange resin granules which are held in its "resin tank". A likely cause of the trouble could be that the softener's "brine valve" is now failing to completely shut off the flow of water. It might be caused by a component such as a valve sealing washer on the valve module that you may be able to access and repair as a D-I-Y job. A different cause of the problem could be that the internal "resin tank" - which contains the ion-exchange resin granules - has developed a crack or split which allows water to leak at high pressure into the brine tank. The resin tank is not usually repairable so, if that is the cause, a new resin tank is required. The cost of the work required to have a new tank fitted is unlikely to be worthwhile. It is usually much cheaper to buy a new water softener.
It could be that the softener has developed an internal mechanical fault so that it is not fully shutting-off the flow of water to the brine tank after the regeneration cycle has been completed for the softener's ion-exchange resin granules which are held in its "resin tank". A likely cause of the trouble could be that the softener's "brine valve" is now failing to completely shut off the flow of water. It might be caused by a component such as a valve sealing washer on the valve module that you may be able to access and repair as a D-I-Y job. A different cause of the problem could be that the internal "resin tank" - which contains the ion-exchange resin granules - has developed a crack or split which allows water to leak at high pressure into the brine tank. The resin tank is not usually repairable so, if that is the cause, a new resin tank is required. The cost of the work required to have a new tank fitted is unlikely to be worthwhile. It is usually much cheaper to buy a new water softener.
This question is answered already under the heading "Why are large amounts of water collecting in the salt tank of my GE water softener"?
The answer is.... "it should NOT taste like salt".... While water softeners use salt to function correctly, they only use salt during a process called "regeneration" which is usually scheduled to occur once every 3-7 days in a household softener. During regeneration, the softener rinses salt water thru the resin tank - but during this time, it supplies the home with untreated water that is bypassing the resin tank so it should not be salty. After the softener rinses the resin with salt water it next removes any excess salt out of the resin beads by rinsing with fresh water. All of the salt water and rinse water during the regeneration process is supposed to go directly out to drain, not into the household water supply. By the end of the regeneration the resin tank should be free of salt and there should be no salt taste. If there is a salt taste, it is because the softener is not working properly. The likely causes are: a) the softener may be defective. It may have an internal leak that is allowing some brine (salt water) to escape into the household plumbing during regeneration. b) the controller may be set up (programmed) incorrectly. In particular, the rinse-out time maybe programmed to be too short. (typically a system rinses for 5-10 minutes.) c) there may be a brine-tank problem which is causing the softener to make too much salt water and then it does not have enough time to rinse all of this excess salt out of the brine tank. For a typical household softener, the system should be consuming between 4 and 20 lbs of salt per regeneration (depends on the size of the system and the hardness of the water). If it is using much more than this, there is probably a problem with the brine tank that will either require a service technician to check and fix, if possible, or, if it is not worth paying the cost of replacement parts and labor to fix, you may need a new water softener.
Hard water will stain fixtures and reduce the efficiency of soap and laundry detergents. One way to combat these problems is to a install water softening system. This system is designed to release magnesium and calcium into the water supply prior to it entering your home. It's important that you regularly inspect the salt level in your system. Also, the water in the brine tank should completely cover the softener salt. If the level is too low, add water to the brine tank. Regular inspection and maintenance of your water softener system ensures that it remains in proper working order.
A water softener removes the excess minerals out of water. There is a tank that has a tube that runs up and down. In the walls of the tube inside and the outer part of the tank are filters that filter out the minerals. The water is then pushed to your facet.
Water softener systems are essential to treating the hard water that eventually breaks appliances and stains sinks and drains. Although it is not necessary, using water softener systems prevent clogged pipes and water stains. Water softener resin is the main ingredient in one of these systems. The job of the softener resin is to filter impurities from the water, such as calcium and magnesium ions.The Three-Part Water Softening ProcessWater softener resin plays a vital role in each step of the three-part water softening process. This resin is usually made in a bead form. These negatively charged beads are stored inside the mineral tank found in the majority of water softeners.First, the resin beads are covered in sodium ions. Once the water in the pipes flows to the mineral tank and passes over the resin beads, the calcium and magnesium ions attach to the resin. While the resin collects these ions, the water softener resin's sodium combines with the hydrogen found in the water.During the second part of the process, the resin works towards removing the calcium and magnesium ions that it has collected. However, it will still retain the sodium ions. In the final phase, the water is sent to separate tank: the brine tank. In the brine tank, the water is rinsed and then, it is mixed with salt.Two Types of Water Softener ResinWater softener resin comes in two types. Fine-mesh resin traps minerals, such as iron, that tend to get past the other type of resin. This resin is best suited for well water. Hi-cap resin is the other kind of resin, which is better for municipal water.The Lifespan of Water Softener ResinThe usual lifespan of water softener resin is 20 years. In the event resin does not soften the water, the issue is probably caused by something other than the resin. It is recommended to first inspect the general softener mechanism for any problems. As a last resort, the water softener resin should be changed.
Yes it sure will. If you leave it with no salt for a week or two, mold will grow on top of the water. When this happens you will have to go through a plenty big job just to bleach it all out without affecting the rest of the fresh water system.
To raise the PH of your water, you can run the water through a Neutralizing Filter which is a Tank similar to a Water Softener Tank with a Media called Calcite in it.
A common problem with household water is hardness. Hard water is simply water with high concentrations of dissolved chemicals, typically calcium and magnesium. These minerals pose no real threat to your health, but they create other problems. Hard water creates a problem when it comes to washing yourself, clothes, dishes and anything else. When it comes to cleaning, hard water is your worst enemy. The solution to hard water is a water softener. A water softener is simply a device which reduces the hardness of water by filtering out the chemicals. A typical water softener uses a chemical process known as ion exchange to filter out the hard minerals in the water. Usually sodium (salt) is used in water softeners to filter out the hard minerals like calcium and magnesium. The bottom line is that softeners significantly improve the quality of water when it comes to hardness. A water softener is connected directly to the household water supply entry point . A typical water softener consists of two tanks, the mineral tank and brine tank. Some water softeners come as one large tank, which still contain the mineral and brine compartments inside. The mineral tank is where the ion exchange process occurs. The brine tank is the reservoir tank which holds the sodium (salt.) This tank must be periodically replaced with new salt at specific intervals. From the mineral tank of the water softener, the filtered and soft water flows to the rest of the house. Another common feature of water softeners is control valves, usually with digital (electronic) controls. If you have hard water, it’s recommended to install a whole house water softener, or one that connects directly to the house water supply. This way, the entire house receives softened water. There are alternatives such as under sink or under counter water softeners, which only provide filtering for the specific fixtures such as the kitchen sink for example. It should be noted that water softeners treat only hard water. Water softeners do not filter out many contaminants from your water. Therefore, you cannot expect to filter chemicals like chlorine, fluoride, Hydrogen Sulfide, and other toxic and harmful contaminants such as Arsenic, volatile organic compounds (VOC), Nitrates. You must install separate water filtering systems if you want to remove these contaminants out of the water supply.
To clean a Culligan water system tank, first disconnect power to the unit. Remove the salt tank cover and carefully lift the brine valve out. Scoop out and discard the brine and salt. Remove the screws on both side of the tank and lift out the brine valve chamber and the salt plate at the bottom of the tank. Scrub and clean the tank. Replace the removed parts. Refill the tank with clean salt almost all the way to the top of the tank. Fill the tank with 4 to 6-inches of clean water. Restore power to the unit and it is ready for use.
http://outreach.missouri.edu/webster/ag-edge/waste-home/watersoft.html This website discusses the topic. I came acroos this information on the web as I was trying to research the same question. In Connecticut it is prohibited by law in any case it is not recommended. The septic tank contrary to popular myth performs a much smaller portion of the treatment of sewage than the drainfield. The septic tank should be a calm, still environment where settling and separation of the solids and liquids takes place. Salt brine from water softeners because of the high salt content is heavier than sewage and displaces and stirs up the sewage as it enters the tank plunging to the very bottom displacing the accumulated sludge. This is contrary to the normal workings of the tank. Undesirable substances from the bottom of the tank recombine with the clarified sewage effluent in the center zone of the tank and spill over into the drainfield. Salt water brine should never be introduced into a septic tank.
No. Ion-exchange resin is used in the water treatment tank of a standard water softener. This type of water softener works by replacing water hardness ions, Calcium and Magnesium Ions, with either Sodium or Potasium ions. The hardness ions are not precipitated, but instead are electrostatically attracted to surface of the resin beads where they replace less tightly bound Sodium or Potassium ions. These Sodium or Potasium ions enter the water stream and leave the water softener in the softened water. In a standard water softener, also known as an ion-exchange softener, no precipitation takes place in the water softening process. (Precipitation is the formation of solids from a solution.)
My salt does not seem to be disapearing from my water softner what could be the problem Your problem is not the lines, but the softener resin bed. It is clogged with iron or sediment. Add IronOut to the brine tank and backflush the system repeatedly until flow volume is restored.
sounds like rust in your water you can try a whole house water filter, most of them will remove rust from the water If you have a water softener, purchase a product called "Iron Out" to add to the brine tank according to directions.
Goldfish will eat the brine shrimp (sea monkeys are brine shrimp). The shrimps would not survive in the fresh water that goldfish need either.
Water softeners don't typically require much maintenance outside of occasional salt refills. However, it is possible for your water softener to break down or malfunction. If you are renting the water softener, then the responsibility for repairs lies with the company that owns it. However, if you own the water softener, you will be responsible for making any necessary repairs to the machine.When a water softener stops working properly, there are several things that may be wrong. You may have noticed that the motor isn't running, that the water is not being effectively softened, that the water has too much iron in it, or that the brine isn't flowing. Depending on the type of problem you are experiencing, the steps for water softener repair will differ.If the problem you are having is that the motor is not working properly, you should first check to see if the power is turned on. If you find that the power is in fact turned on, you will need to test the motor to determine if the part itself is the problem.If the water isn't coming out of the machine soft, the first thing you should try is to flush the tank and clean the injector. To clean the injector, switch the softener to bypass mode and disconnect the softener from power. Next, remove the softener cap, screen, and the injector nozzle. You can then clean the screen with water and soap. The nozzle can be cleaned with a paper clip or with canned air. After all parts have been cleaned, you can reassemble the unit and test it to see if the problem has been repaired.If the problem you are experiencing is that the water has too much iron in it, you can try to replace the filter. Some models can also use salt that has built-in iron-control agents. You can also check to ensure that the bypass valve is in the right position and that there are no leaks in your plumbing.Finally, if you are having trouble with flow in the brine line, you can try to flush the line to fix the problem. After the line is flushed, you can try to replace the filter screen and injector. Also, you can check the line for any damage or kinks that may be obstructing the flow.
In general that is not a good idea. It will contain too much sodium or potassium. When you add the salt water mix to the water, the manufacturer expects the water to be free or nearly free of these. The extra minerals will change the salt water into one that has too much salt or too much potassium. Having said that, I think there are some people who do use it and do ok. It probably depends on how they make their salt water and what they put in the tank.