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You have an 86 190E 23 does it matter if you use a ignition coil from a 23 16v engine?
yes it would matter
What is the spark plug gap on a 1987 Mercedes 190E 23?
Gaps are from .028" thou to 0.035" thou. Preference is for 0.028" thou.
What are the release dates for Where in the World Is Carmen Sandiego - 1991 Boosting the Belt 2-23?
Where in the World Is Carmen Sandiego - 1991 Boosting the Belt 2-23 was released on: USA: 28 October 1992
What is the answer to the daily jumble for May 23 2012?
He said this to the optometrist after his exam. Answer: SEE YOU LATER, yokel, evoke, jargon, adjust
How do you change timing belt on a 1999 Nissan Quest?
1. f the timing belt is to be removed, it is good practice to turn the crankshaft until the engine is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the No. 1 cylinder, compression stroke (firing position), before beginning work. This should align all timing marks and serve as a reference for all work that follows. After verifying that the engine is at TDC for the No. 1 cylinder, do not crank the engine or allow the crankshaft or camshaft sprockets to be turned otherwise engine timing will be lost.2. Drain the cooling system.3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.4. Remove the alternator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump belt and the air conditioning compressor belt, if equipped, using the recommended drive belt removal procedure.5. If equipped with air conditioning, remove the 3 air conditioning compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and remove the idler pulley.6. Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt. Remove the upper hose with the bracket from the vehicle.7. Remove the water bypass hose from between the thermostat housing and the lower water hose connection.8. Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover.9. Remove the 8 upper engine front cover bolts and remove the upper cover.10. Raise and safely support the vehicle.11. Remove the right side front wheel and tire assembly.12. Remove the 4 right side engine and transmission splash shield bolts and 2 screws, and remove the right side outer engine and transaxle splash shield.13. Use a strap wrench to hold the water pump pulley. Remove the 4 pulley bolts, and the water pump pulley.14. Use a strap wrench to hold the crankshaft pulley. Remove the center pulley bolt, and the crankshaft pulley using a harmonic balancer (damper) puller to draw the pulley from the front of the crankshaft.15. Remove the 5 lower engine front cover bolts, then remove the lower engine front cover.16. Be sure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing align.17. If the timing belt is to be reused, mark an arrow on the belt indicating the direction of rotation. The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing belt, if it to be reused, can reinstalled in the same direction.18. Loosen the timing belt tensioner nut and slip the timing belt off of the sprockets.19. If necessary, the camshaft sprockets can be removed. A special spanner tool is designed to hold the sprocket to keep it from turning while the center bolt is being loosened. Use care if using substitutes.Note: If necessary, the crankshaft sprocket can be removed. The outer timing belt guide (looks like a large washer) and the crankshaft sprocket simply pull off the front of the crankshaft.-To install-1. Clean all parts well. If removed, inspect the crankshaft sprocket for warping or abnormal wear. Check the sprocket teeth for wear, deformation, chipping or other damage. Replace as necessary. Clean the sprocket mounting surface to ease installation. Install the key. Slip the sprocket onto the crankshaft. Tap it in place with a suitably-sized socket.2. If removed, inspect the camshaft sprockets for damage and wear. Replace as required. The sprockets should be markedL3to designate the front, or left side camshaft and R3 to designate the rear, or right side camshaft. Use care to install the sprockets properly. A special spanner tool is designed to hold the sprocket to keep it from turning while the center bolt is being tightened. Use care if using a substitute. Tighten the camshaft sprocket center bolts to 58-65 ft. lbs. (78-88 Nm) for the 3.0L engine or 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm) for the 3.3L engine. Verify that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets and the timing marks on the rear cover (called the seal plate) are aligned.3. Use an Allen wrench to turn the timing belt tensioner clockwise until the belt tensioner spring is fully extended. Temporarily tighten the tensioner nut to 32-43 ft. lbs. (43-58 Nm).4. If a new timing belt is to be installed, look for a printed arrow on the belt. Be sure the arrow is pointing away from the engine. If the original timing belt is to be reused, be sure that the directional arrow that was marked at disassembly is facing the correct direction.5. A new Original Equipment Manufacture (OEM) timing belt should have 3 white timing marks on it that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts and the crankshaft. These marks are to help ensure that the engine is properly timed. When the engine is properly timed, each white timing mark on the timing belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced, the technician needs to use care in installing the belt. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks on the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket.6. Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the rear cover (seal plate) and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump housing.7. Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around the camshaft sprockets following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing belt between the sprockets. After all of the timing marks are aligned with the timing belt installed, slip the timing belt onto the belt tensioner.8. While holding the timing belt tensioner with an Allen wrench, loosen the tensioner nut. Allow the tensioner to put pressure on the timing belt. Use an Allen wrench to turn the timing belt tensioner 70-80 degrees clockwise and tighten the timing belt tensioner nut to 32-43 ft. lbs. (43-58 Nm).9. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke (firing position).10. Apply 22 lbs. (10kg) of force on the timing belt between the rear camshaft sprocket and the timing belt tensioner. An assistant may be needed. While holding the timing belt tensioner steady with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing belt tensioner nut. Remove the Allen wrench and adjust the timing belt tensioner using the following procedure:§ Install a 0.0138 in. (0.35mm) thick and 0.500 in. (12.7mm) wide feeler gauge where the timing belt just starts to go around the tensioner (approximately the 4 o'clock position, looking at the tensioner).§ Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise, which should force the feeler gauge between the timing belt and the tensioner, up to a position on the tensioner of about 1 o'clock.§ Tighten the timing belt tensioner nut to 32-43 ft. lbs. (43-58 Nm) for the 3.0L engine or 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm) for the 3.3L engine.§ Turn the crankshaft clockwise to rotate the feeler gauge out from between the timing belt tensioner and the timing belt.11. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise twice, and once again align the No. 1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke (firing position).12. Apply 22 lbs. (10 kg) of force on the timing belt between the front and rear camshaft sprockets. Measure the amount of belt deflection. Belt deflection should be between 0.51-0.59 in. (13-15mm). If belt deflection is out of specification, repeat Steps 29 through 33. If the timing belt deflection cannot be adjusted into specification, the timing belt will have to be replaced.13. Position the lower engine front cover and install the 5 lower cover bolts. Do not over tighten. Tighten to 27-44 inch lbs. (3-5 Nm).14. Install the outer timing belt guide next to the crankshaft sprocket with the dished side facing away from the cylinder block. Install the crankshaft pulley. Use a strap wrench to keep the crankshaft pulley from turning and tighten the center bolt to 90-98 ft. lbs. (123-132 Nm) for the 3.0L engine or 148 ft. lbs. (201 Nm) for the 3.3L engine.15. Position the water pump pulley on the pump. Install the 4 bolts. Use a strap wrench to keep the water pump pulley from turning and tighten the 4 water pump pulley bolts to 12-15 ft. lbs. (16-21 Nm) for the 3.0L engine or 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) for the 3.3L engine.16. Position the right side outer engine and transaxle splash shield, and secure with the 4 bolts and 2 screws.17. Install the right side front wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts to 72-87 ft. lbs. (98-118 Nm).18. Lower the vehicle.19. Position the upper engine timing belt front cover and tighten the 8 bolts to 27-44 inch lbs. (3-5 Nm).20. Install the main wiring harness on the upper engine front cover.21. Position the water bypass hose between the thermostat housing and water connection. Install the upper radiator hose between the radiator and the water hose connection. Secure the hoses with clamps. Install the upper radiator hose bracket. Tighten the bracket bolt to 34-58 ft. lbs. (46-65 Nm).22. If equipped, position the air conditioning compressor drive belt idler pulley and install the 3 bolts. Tighten to 15 ft. lbs. (21 Nm).23. Install and adjust the alternator drive belt, the water pump and power steering pump drive belt and the air conditioning compressor drive belt, if equipped.24. Connect the battery cable.25. Fill the cooling system.26. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. Check and adjust the ignition timing. Road test to verify correct engine operation.
How many stars are in the constellation Orion- The Hunter?
There are 23 in Orion the Hunter. but of those make up his belt.
How much is a serpentine belt for a 1996 ford windstar?
anywhere from $23-$60 at Advance Auto Parts.
What is the weight of a police duty belt?
depends on the department and equiptment they carry, My duty belt itself is approximately 17 pounds. When I am in full uniform i usually weigh 23 pounds more than when I am not!
How does path of the asteroid compare to the path the earth travels?
It doesn't. In an estimated 23 years, a belt of asteroids will collide with the earth.
How much power does a ca model allis chalmers have?
23 drawbar horsepower MAX, 26 belt/pto horsepower MAX
How do you replace the timing belt on a '97 Toyota Tacoma?
Labor Times - hrs Remove & Install: Contour/Mystique 3.40 Cougar/Escort 2.70 Special Tools Camshaft alignment tool - No. 303-465 (T94P6256CH). Crankshaft timing pin - No. 303-574 (T97P6000A). Remove spark plugs to ease turing engine. Turn crankshaft in normal direction of rotation (unless otherwise stated). Do NOT turn crankshaft via camshaft or other sprockets. Observe all tightening torques. Removal: 1. Raise and support the front of vehicle. 2. Remove: Right hand front wheel. Engine lower splash guard - if fitted. Right hand inner fender lower splash guard. Accesory drive belt. NOTE: If the accesory belt is to be re-used, mark the direction of rptation on belt with chalk. Water pump pulley. Acessory drive belt tensioner. Speical Precautions: Disconnect battery ground cable. Do NOT turn crankshaft or camshaft with timing belt removed. 3. Loosen the crank shaft pulley bolt 1. 4. Turn crankshaft clockwise until No.1 cylinder at TDC of compression stroke with notch and pointer aligned 2. 5. Remove: Crankshaft pulley bolt 1. Crankshaft pulley 3. NOTE: DO NOT turn the crankshaft when removing the crankshaft pulley. Timing belt lower cover 4. 6. Loosen bolts of left hand and right hand engine mounts to allow engine to move slightly. 7. Lower vehicle. 8. Move the coolant expansion tank aside (leave hoses connected). 9. Disconnect cruise control cable. 10. Support the engine using a jack. 11. Remove: Front engine mount. PAS pipe bracket. Upper timing belt cover 5. Front engine mount bracket 6. 12. Disconnect accelerator cable and cruise conrol cables from cylinder head cover. 13. Remove: Spark plugs cover. Spark plug wires. Cylinder head cover. 14. Install camshaft alignment tool No.303-465 (T94P6256CH) into slots at rear of camshafts 7. 15. Loosen the tensioner retaining bolt 8. 16. Using suitable Allen wrench, turn the tensioner clockwise to release tension from belt 9. 17.Undo the tenisoner retaining bolt four turns 8. 18. Unhook the tensioner bracket from the metal clip 10. 19. Remove plug from exhaust camshaft sprocket 11. 20. Using a wrench on hexagon to hold camshafts 12, loosen camshaft sprocket retaining bolts 13 & 14. Attention To Removal Step #20 is critical to proper installation! 21. Remove and discard timing belt. NOTE: DO NOT reinstall used belt. Timing belt must always be renewed once it had been loosened or removed. IMPORTANT: To maximize Timing Belt System performance...it is recommended that Timing Belt Tenionser(s) and Idler(s) be replaced at the same time as Timing Belts! Installation: NOTE: The lower guide pulley may not be fitted to some models a after 06/1999. 1. Ensure camshaft alignment tool installed correctly 7. NOTE: Valves for No.4 cylinder should be on 'overlap' (camshaft lobes facing inward). 2. Temporarily install crankshaft pulley 3. 3. Check that the notch and pointer are alligned 2. 4. Remove plug from cylinder block 15 and install crankshaft timing pin 16 No.303-574 (T97P6000A). 5. Adjust position of crankshaft until it rest against timing pin. NOTE: No.1 cylinder must be at TDC of compression stroke and timing marks aligned 2. 6. Remove crankshaft pulley. NOTE: Under normal circumstances, the variable valve timing system will not return to its original base position. Ensure adjustable exhaust camshaft sprocket is reset as follows: Ensure camshaft alignment tool installed 7. Lightly tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt 14, to prevent sprocket hub turning on camshaft. Turn the exhaust camshaft sprocket by hand fully counterclockwise. Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt 14. Ensure the sprocket moves freely on the camshaft. Turn sprocket until hole and largelug of sprocket hub at top. 7. Type A: Ensure the tensioner bracket is unhooked from metal clip 10 and is at the 4 o'clock position 17. Align 6mm Allen wrench hole 18 with the 'U' shaped notch in the pointer 19. 8. Type B: Ensure the tensioner bracket is unhooked from metal clip 10. 9. Install the new timing belt in a counterclockwise direction starting at the crankshaft sprocket, ensure timing belt taut between sprocets on non-tensioned side. 10. Ensure crankshaft remains resting against timing pin 16 during the tensioning procedure. 11. Type A: Hook the tensioner bracket 17 into the metal clip 10. Position the 6mm Allen wrench hole 18 at the 4 o'clock position. Finger tighten the tensioner bolt 8. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise 20 until 'U' shaped notch in the pointer 19 aligned with mark on bracket 17. Hold the tensioner pulley in position. 12 Type B: Hook the tensioner bracket into the metal clip 10 and finger tighten the tensioner bolt 8. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise 21 until the tip of the pointer 22 aligned with the mark 23. Hold the tensioner pulley in position. 13. Torque the tensioner bolt 8 to 18.5 ft. lbs. 14. Remove Allen wrench. 15. Use a wrench on the hexagon of each camshaft to prevent camshafts from turing 12. 16. Torque the intake sprocket retaining bolt 13 to 50 ft. lbs. and exhaust sprocket retaining bolt 14 to 44 ft. lbs. 17. Remove the crankshaft timing pin 16 and camshaft alignment tool 7. 18. Hold exhaust camshaft using wrench on hexagon 12. 19. Torque the exhuast sprocket retaining bolt 14 to 89 ft. lbs. 20. Turn crankshaft slowly almost two turns clockwise. 21. Install crankshaft timing pin 16. 22. Turn crankshaft clockwise until it rests against timing pin. 23. Check that camshaft alignment tool fits smoothly into both camshaft slots 7. 24. If not, repeat installation and tensioning procedure. 25. Remove timing pin and camshaft alignment tool. 26. Install a new plug into exhaust camshaft sprocket 11 and torque to 27 ft. lbs. 27. Install plug 15 and torque to 18.5 ft. lbs. 28. Install components in reverse of removal. 29. Torque the crankshaft pulley bolt 1 to 85 ft. lbs. NOTE: If re-using the old accessory drive belt, observe direction of rotation markings. ATTENTION: Installation steps #6 and #16 through #24 are critical to proper installion!!
How do you install a timing belt on a 1994 Plymouth laser?
Camshaft Timing Belt Removal:It may be convenient to raise the vehicle to a level where work can be performed through the wheel well and over the top of the fender.Remove lower left engine compartment splash shield.Support engine with engine support fixture, tool #C-4852 or #7137, and remove the left engine mount and bracket (Figure 1). (The engine may be supported with a jack on the oil pan, but make SURE to place it so that the force is distributed as widely as possible, and PAD the jack with several layers of cardboard or heavy cloth to avoid bending the oil pan.)Figure 1Loosen the water pump pulley bolts. Remove the alternator/water pump drive belts, and the power steering drive belt. Important: Loosen water pump pulley bolts before removing belt.Remove water pump pulley.Remove the tensioner pulley bracket and the A/C belt.Remove crankshaft pulley.Remove the upper and lower timing belt covers.Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing marks so as to bring the No. 1 piston to the Top-Dead-Center (TDC) position of the compression stroke. Caution: Rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction.The camshaft sprocket dowel pins must be at the 12 o'clock position and the camshaft sprocket timing marks must be aligned together (left sprocket at the 3 o'clock and right sprocket at the 9 o'clock positions) (Figure 2).Figure 2 Both camshaft sprocket timing marks must be in line with the top surface of the cylinder head (Figure 3). [A straight edge (ruler) laid across the center of the cam shaft attaching bolts will help you to better see and align the timing marks.] The crankshaft and oil pump sprockets must also be aligned with their respective timing marks (Figure 3).NOTE: Crankshaft may need to be rotated up to six turns before all sprockets are properly aligned and the rear balance shaft is in phase, due to the oil pump-to balance shaft gear ratio.Figure 3Note: If the belt is currently correctly installed, then use white paint or Whiteout to mark the belt and sprockets. To be consistent, make the marks on the sprockets on the teeth, therefore all the marks on the belt will be between the teeth. Mark the cam sprockets, oil pump sprocket and the crank sprocket. Before installing the new belt, place the old and new belts together, aligning the teeth, and transfer the marks to the new belt. When installing the new belt on the sprockets, match up the marks on the belt with the marks on the sprockets. If you install the belt this way and are reusing the old tensioner, it should allow you to get the belt within spec without loosening the tensioner pulley, saving a lot of time.Remove rubber plug from inner timing belt cover and screw special tool no. MD998738 (contact Miller Tool for this tool - 800-801-5420, http://www.spxmiller.com/ - search for part # MD998767 or MLR-MD-998738) into the engine left support bracket until it makes contact with the tensioner arm (Figures 4 & 5). If you don't have the special tools, but have a tap and die set, see Timing Belt Addition 1 for instructions on making this oneLoosen the tensioner pulley center bolt (Figure 5).Figure 4Figure 5Compress the Auto Tensioner push rod by SLOWLY rotating special tool no. MD998738 until hole in Auto Tensioner push rod aligns with the hole in the Auto Tensioner body (Figure 6). NOTE: PUSH ROD MAY NEED TO BE ROTATED IF HOLE IN ROD IS NOT VERTICALLY IN LINE WITH HOLE IN HOUSING.Insert a 1/16 inch Allen wrench or similar pin {1.4 mm (.055 in.) in diameter} into the aligned holes to hold the push rod in the reset (pinned) position. Back off special tool MD998738 once auto tensioner is in the reset position (Figure 6).Figure 6NOTE: INSPECT THE TENSIONER AND REPLACE IT IF IT SHOWS SIGNS OF OIL LEAKAGE.Remove and discard the camshaft timing belt.Removal of Balancer Belt (Timing Belt "B")Loosen balancer belt tensioner pulley center bolt (Figure 7).Figure 7Loosen and remove crankshaft sprocket and backplate (6bolt blocks only):Loosening is really easy:NOTE: Due to the redesign of the oilpump case for the 7bolt motors, removal of the crank sprocket is NOT necessary on them to remove the balance shaft belt. The oilpump case was redesigned with a dropdown, and the belt can be removed from around the balance shaft belt backplate without removal of the crankshaft sprocket and backplate. Go here to see if you have an early 6bolt or late 7bolt block.Make SURE the camshaft sprocket timing marks are still lined up - this makes sure all valves are closed. If the marks are not lined up, some valves could be open, and the following procedure could bend valves.Put a 1/2" breaker bar in the end of the crank sprocket boltPlace the bar up against the axle (to the rear of the axle)Remove the MPI fuse (near the battery) so the car won't startPlace your foot on the breaker bar, pressing it into the crank bolt, so the downward slant of the axle doesn't throw the breaker bar out and break the breaker bar (TRUST me on this, it can happen)Bump the starter (very quickly, it only takes a split-second)Tightening the crank sprocket bolt is a whole different matter. You have to put 80+ ft-lbs of torque on it, and when you go to tighten it, the engine will rotate (NOT what you want to happen while the timing belt is off). If you have an airwrench, and trust the torque settings, again, you are set. If not, consider building the tool noted here. It will hold the crank still while you properly torque the crank sprocket nut.Once the crank sprocket is off, mark the front of the backing plate and remove it. Then remove and discard balancer belt. (You are marking the front of the backing plate to make sure you put it back on in the right position for proper crank timing. You can mark it by cleaning it off with brakeparts or carb cleaner, then using Witeout or white paint around the timing mark notch - this will make it easy to tell the front from the rear).Timing Belt Installation:Balancer belt (Timing Belt "B"):Ensure that the crankshaft sprocket and the silent shaft sprocket timing marks are aligned. Install new balancer belt (buy FACTORY belts, not aftermarket) over crankshaft sprocket "B", around the tensioner pulley, and over the silent shaft sprocket. Do not leave any slack on the tension side of the belt (Figure 8). 1990-1992 Models1993-1994 ModelsFigure 8CAUTION: WHEN TIGHTENING THE BOLT, ENSURE THAT THE TENSIONER PULLEY SHAFT DOES NOT ROTATE WITH THE BOLT. ALLOWING IT TO ROTATE CAN CAUSE EXCESSIVE TENSION ON THE BALANCER BELT.Push the balancer belt tensioner up (clockwise) to place pressure on the balancer belt so that the tension side is taut. Belt tension should be 5-7 mm (.20-.28 in.) using the belt deflection method. Tighten the tensioner center bolt and torque to 15-22 Nm (11-16 ft. lbs.) Note there is an easy way to set the tension - if you pry up on the pulley with a screwdriver until the spacing between the pulley and oilpump case (between roughly 6 o'clock and 9 o'clock on the pulley) is even, the tension will be correct. (Figure 9).Figure 9CAMSHAFT TIMING BELT:Rotate the camshaft timing belt tensioner pulley so that the pinholes are to the left of the center bolt. Tighten the center bolt finger-tight (Figure 10).Figure 10NOTE: LEAVE THE ALLEN WRENCH INSTALLED IN THE AUTO TENSIONER. (Unless you are going to use my method of setting tension - see my notes after Fig 21)Figure 11Make sure the camshaft sprocket dowel pins are located at the 12 o'clock position and the camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned together (left sprocket at the 3 o'clock and right sprocket at the 9 o'clock positions). Both camshaft sprocket timing marks should be in line with the top surface of the cylinder head (Figure 11).If your engine has high mileage, it is a GOOD idea to replace the water pump, timing belt tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley (27 ft-lb), and balancer belt tensioner pulley while doing the belts. This is the time to do it - remove the tensioner, and you can swap in the new water pump. It is suggested you silicone the gasket to the pump the day before with a verylight coating of silicone, just enough to hold the gasket on (so thin you can easily see through it).This is also a good time to inspect the tensioner system for wear. As Steve Piette notes:You might want to suggest inspecting the tensioner arm for wear where it hits the tensioner rod, and checking the bushing and pivot shaft in in the engine mount. Replace as required. I've found that it's common for the tensioner rod to wear a hole in the arm and that both the arm bushing and the mount shaft to wear at the top on the side facing the idler pulley.If you replace the timing belt idler pulley NOTE that early 90s used a different idler pulley than later cars. The early cars used part # MD121993, later cars used MD156604. If you don't know WHICH your car uses, order the MD156604 AND an M10x22 bolt MF241281 and a lockwasher, as the newer idler pulley has a different center, requiring a much shorter bolt.If you replaced the water pump, NOW is the time to put the radiator back in (if you removed it) and refill it to verify you have no leaks. Fill it with water only, so you can drain it and remove the radiator again (allows better access to the PS pump and alternator). Make sure to reinstall the tensioner arm bolt and washer (16 ft-lb). (Figure 11b)Figure 11bNOTE: THE EXHAUST CAMSHAFT SPROCKET MAY ROTATE IN THE COUNTERCLOCKWISE DIRECTION. THIS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED WHEN INSTALLING THE TIMING BELT. (What this means is that in some cases, lining up the timing marks on the sprockets won't work - when the tensioner is tightened, it will pull the exhaust sprocket, and the camshaft marks won't line up, while the bottom ones are lined up. If this happens to you, try setting the exhaust sprocket one tooth off in the clockwise direction (mark below the head plane), clamp the belt to the sprockets, then rotate the sprockets a little so the intake mark is slightly above the head plane and the exhaust is slightly below, with the bottom 3 marks lined up. Then the marks should align when you tension the belt - but try with the marks lined up with the head plane first)Make sure that the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump sprocket is aligned with the timing mark pointers (Figure 12).1990-1992 Models1993 ModelsFigure 12The balance shaft is in the correct position if the screwdriver can be inserted at least 60 mm (2.4 in.). If the inserted depth is less than this only 20-25 mm (.8-1.0 in.), the oil pump sprocket must be rotated one full turn and timing marks realigned. Recheck the balance shaft position using the screwdriver to ensure that it can be inserted 60 mm (2.4 in.) or more. Keep the screwdriver inserted until timing belt installation is complete (Figure 13).Figure 13NOTE that there is an easier way to do this. Simply rotate the mark on the oil pump sprocket until it is pointing straight up, and let it go. If the sprocket rotates towards(counterclockwise) the timing mark on the engine, the oil pump sprocket is aligned correctly. If it rotates away(clockwise) from the mark, spin the sprocket a full turn and test again, and it should properly rotate towards the mark now. Now line the mark on the sprocket back up with the mark on the engine. This avoids having to remove the rear access bolt entirely.Caution: MAKE SURE THE BALANCE SHAFT IS PROPERLY POSITIONED. It is possible for the oil pump sprocket timing marks to be properly aligned, and have the balance shaft out of phase. This could result in a SEVERE engine vibration.Remove the balance shaft plug bolt (Figure 12c) on the rear side of the cylinder block and insert a Phillips screwdriver through the hole. (The balance shaft plug is a bolt a couple of inches above the oilpan, about dead center driver-to-passenger side. It's a bolt on a flat machined surface that doesn't seem to belong there, because it isn't bolting anything down)Figure 12cFigure 14Install the new timing belt over the intake side camshaft sprocket and clamp it in position with a clip (Figure 14).Use a wrench to maintain alignment of the two camshafts and install the timing belt over the exhaust side sprocket, aligning the timing marks as shown in Figure 2 and clamp the belt in position with a clip (Figures 15 & 16).Figure 15Figure 16Position the timing belt (buy FACTORY belts, not aftermarket) around the idler pulley, oil pump sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and tensioner pulley (in that order) as shown in Figure 17.Figure 17Figure 18Rotate the tensioner pulley in a clockwise direction until the belt is taut and tighten the center bolt (Figure 18).NOTE: MAKE SURE ALL TIMING BELT TEETH ARE ENGAGED WITH THE TEETH ON THE CAMSHAFTS, OIL PUMP, AND CRANKSHAFT SPROCKETS AND THAT ALL TIMING MARKS ARE STILL PROPERLY ALIGNED.Oil Pump Sprocket Nut Replacement - obsolete via '94 TSB- No longer deemed necessary to replace or even check oil pump sprocket nut. Probably a good thing to check anyway. Lubricate the threads and torque to 55 Nm (40 ft. lbs.) (Figure 17).Remove the screwdriver from the balance shaft hole and install the plug.Remove the two clips holding the belt to the camshaft sprockets.Rotate the crankshaft a ¼ turn counterclockwise, then rotate it clockwise until the timing marks are aligned again. Crankshaft position should still be at the No. 1 cylinder TDC position of the compression stroke.NOTE: MAKE SURE THAT ALL OF THE TIMING MARKS ARE STILL ALIGNED.Loosen the tensioner pulley center bolt, attach special tool no. MD998752 (part # changed to MD998767, contact Miller Tool for this tool - 800-801-5420) and apply 2.7 Nm (24 in. lbs.) torque to pulley (with beam type torque wrench) as shown in Figure 19. WITH TORQUE APPLIED TO THE TENSIONER PULLEY, tighten the attaching bolt, then torque to 49 ± 6 Nm (36 ± 4 ft. lbs.).If you don't have the special tools, see Timing Belt Addition 1 for instructions on avoiding using this oneFigure 19Figure 20Caution: Failure to follow this procedure will cause the belt tension to exceed the range of the auto tensioner limits and result in premature timing belt failure or jumping.NOTE: IF THE VEHICLE BODY INTERFERES WITH THE SPECIAL TOOL AND THE TORQUE WRENCH, RAISE THE ENGINE UP SLIGHTLY UNTIL THERE IS ADEQUATE CLEARANCE.SLOWLY rotate the special tool no. MD998738 until it makes contact with the tensioner arm and remove the Allen wrench from the auto tensioner (Figure 20).Back off the special tool and rotate the crankshaft SIX complete turns clockwise.Measure the auto tensioner push rod position with a drill bit (distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body) to ensure that it falls within the specification of 3.8-4.5 mm (.15-.18 in.) as shown in Figure 21.Figure 21NOTE: WAIT 15 MINUTES AFTER THE ALLEN WRENCH IS REMOVED FROM AUTO TENSIONER (FOR PLUNGER ROD TO STABILIZE) BEFORE MEASURING. IF THE PLUNGER ROD IS OUT OF SPECIFICATION, RESET THE AUTO TENSIONER (STEPS 10, 11 AND 12) AND REPEAT STEPS 29 THROUGH 32 UNTIL THE SPECIFIED VALUE IS OBTAINED.Here is how I set the tension whether I am using a new tensioner or not:I do not use an Allen wrench on the tensioner as noted previously, I just let the tensioner expand all the wayOnce the belt is installed, I place a .150" drillbit (or the nearest larger size I have) on the top of the tensioner body, and screw in the tensioner tool until it captures the drillbit between the tensioner body and tensioner pulley bracket. When the bracket is close to the drillbit, I start spinning the drillbit, and stop screwing in the tool as soon as the bracket stops it from spinning. In other words, I stop when the pulley bracket is just snug against the bit.I place a flatblade screwdriver between the engine and tensioner pulley, and lightly pry up on the pulleyI torque the pulley downI back off the tensioner tool several turns, and immediately check the tensioner gap - if it has gotten too small or too large right away, I redo the steps above, changing the pressure used on the screwdriver. If the gap looks OK, I spin the engine 6 turns and wait 15 minutes and check the gap again.There are other ways to do this, but this works best for meRemove special tool no. MD998738 and install the rubber plug to the inner timing belt cover.Install the upper and lower timing belt covers as shown in Figure 22. (Rotate the bottom of the lower cover toward the rear to assist in clearing the water pump).90-91 DSMsBolt sizes92-94 DSMsThread diameter× thread lengthmm (in.)A: 6 x 16 (.24 x .63) B: 6 x 18 (.24 x .70) C: 6 x 25 (.24 x .98) D: 6 x 28 (.24 x 1.10)Figure 22Note that timing cover bolts vary in length. Make sure that the proper size bolts are installed in the correct hole locations. (Figure 22) Note also that I have seen several 90s using the 92-94 bolt lengths. So compare the total number of each length bolt you have when removing them to figure out which diagram to use for reassembly.Install crankshaft pulley and torque to 25 ± 5 Nm (18 ± 4 ft. lbs.).Install A/C tensioner bracket with A/C belt and torque to 25 ± 2 Nm (18 ± 4 ft. lbs.). Adjust belt tension to 5.5-6.0 mm (.220-.240 in.) belt deflection.Install water pump pulley.Install alternator/water pump and power steering drive belts and adjust belt tension as follows:Belt Deflection Alternator/Water Pump Belt9.0-11.5 mm (.354-.453 in.) Power Steering Belt6.0-9.0 mm (.240-.354 in.)Install left front engine mount and bracket and torque to the specifications shown in Figure 23.Figure 23Remove engine support fixture.Install lower engine compartment splash shield.Timing Belt Layout
