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The following is an elaboration on the 1995 Mazda B2300 Manual, step-by-step in the manner I use. I AM NOT a mechanic but I successfully change my own headlight bulbs as well as other bulbs for my Mazda. My garage fee for this change, labor and parts, is $30-$50. My cost, $13.95 for new bulb, a broken fingernail and nasty grease to wash off.
The following applies to a 1995 Mazda B2300 and, I believe, to most near-year models. Given the age of my vehicle, I actually had a plug work loose once making me believe the bulb was burned out. A quick check of the plug (see below) before going through the whole process saved the price of a bulb on that occasion.
Level of difficulty will differ depending on which headlight is out due to access to the bulb itself. The passenger side is typically an easier fix because the battery is located on driver's side. My 1995 requires working blind with one hand to make the change on driver's side - there is no other access or line of sight, so it's a tougher fix. Below is instruction for changing driver's side - to change passenger side headlight simply ignore the battery issue!
To change driver's side headlight bulb -
1) Open hood of car and locate wiring assembly as it attaches to rear of headlight. You must have full hand/finger access in order to make the change. If the battery is in the way, unbolt battery as necessary and shift as far toward windshield as possible to give good single hand access. It is not normally necessary to disconnect the battery but exercise CAUTION anytime you are working with or near connecting wires and battery itself.
2) The actual change involves a 3-step process:
A. Unplug the wiring from the light assembly.
First, grasp the wires as they exit the back of the bulb near the rubber stop and gently work up/down and left/right and then tug until plug disconnects from the headlight. It may take a little while to work free, depending on how long since last disconnect but whatever you do, don't get impatient and jerk the wires/plug out. Once the plug is free shift it aside, out of your way.
B. Remove the outer plastic (usually gray) ring and remove from the assembly.
As you hold the ring, turn counter clockwise until it stops then simply pull straight back and the ring should come out completely. Hint: Take a look at it and note exactly how it looks as you remove it.
C. Remove the burned-out bulb assembly.
After removing the ring, you will encounter a rubber stopper-type shape which is the back of the actual bulb. It should pull out easily but you may encounter resistance depending on how long since last change. Remove the entire burned out bulb assembly.
D. Insert the new bulb assembly.
The new bulb goes in exactly as the old bulb came out. The piece should set in flush with no gap. If there is a gap, position is out of kilter so keep working until the bulb sets into the headlamp flush.
E. Replace the plastic hold ring.
The ring has perforations which are in alignment with the bulb assembly. Take a close look and line things up before you actually start putting it back together to save time and sanity. Once the ring is in place, tighten into position by turning the ring clockwise to lock into place. It's about a half turn or so and when it stops moving, it's in place.
F. Plug wiring back into bulb assembly.
Simply plug the wiring in, making sure it sets in place and is flush.
Now, turn your headlights on and test to make sure all is working correctly.
DON'T FORGET - Reposition and rebolt your car battery as necessary.
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∙ 11y ago
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