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It's simple if you can open the door. Quoted from another site to save time, "Remove the door panel. The actuator has three screws that hold it on to the door latch assembly. Remove these screws and the actuator comes off the latch. You may want to remove the window and the rear window track to gain easy access to the latch. The hardest part is making sure that you have the tab on the actuator lined up with the tab on the latch so it works properly."
In order to line up the hole in the actuator with the tab on the latch, you should remove the plastic cover that sits atop of actuator by removing one screw (it is right in the middle of the cover though it might not be visible on some models). Once this cover is off, you can easily see how the two parts fit together.
In order to line up the screw holes in the actuator body to their mounting positions, I cut a clothes hanger so that I had two pieces about 6" long each and tapered one end of each on a grinder. Insert the tapered ends into 2 of the 3 holes in order to line things up, then you can start the screw in the 3rd hole. Once that screw is tight, the other two will be easy. Before installing the cover back you can pre-screw the central screw for a few turns - this will make the installation the whole lot easier.
Now plug it in, turn the ignition to "on" and test it.
The problem comes where the actuator is actually holding the door shut, so you can't open it to get to those 3 screws, and can't even fully remove the door panel. It requires you to drill directly into the actuator to release some kind of gear or something, I am not sure on this. If you want to save some cash, you might try to take apart your actuator (very easy - just 4 screws) and buy just the motor that goes into the actuator - mine was a brushed motor made by Mabuchi, similar to one you find in toys. Should run you $3 instead of $35 for the whole thing.
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∙ 15y ago
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