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I wouldn't...first most after market amps require a certain amount of power for proper function, such as a good ground, a good power source, some sort of RCA audio input, and a remote turn on. I know trying to figure out the same thing once. Plus most factory amps are just a plug of 16 gauge wires, and by time you through all of them to figure out power,ground,and remote, you still have to figure out how to send and input to your after market amp. Lets say you did do it and figured it all out, once you turn your deck on the after market amp probablly would go right into protect due to not having enough power. Either way save yourself the headache and buy a head unit with all the right outputs, splurge a little on a nice power wire( i prefer rockford with 30 amp inline fuse) and some RCA's (which usually come with a remote on them) and do it right. It will sound better,be safer then taking the chance of frying your cars wiring, and be worry free!
Bigger Sound.
This may or may be the case with your factory amp. I have a 2000 Ecliplse with "Infinity Package" .... to the point there is a plug of wires hitting the amp. ( Get a book for car and ground to light tester. w/ the alligator clip) my amp has two volt wires (in, and distributed) To be clear this technique should be used only for input power!! Ground your aftermarket Amp!!!! Also I agree above finding the remote can be tricky. This will however save the extra time of running battery wire. {splice volt1 wire and run to aftermarket amp power in or positive bypassing the factory amp for now. LOOP V1 so that you aftermarket, usally higher in amperage is powered before the factory ampuse common sense you may may fry the 50 watt BS amp. In my case I have left the distributive out V2 intact for now. should be able to run extras or whatever thats how my dash lights are working for now.
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