the distributor is the likely culprit.
No it would not as it is for emissions only and has nothing to do with engine running. If you have a problem then you will need to have the engine scanned for codes and diagnosed. That should fix your running problem. If you have not replaced the fuel filter in the last 2 years or 30,000 miles then that should help the situation.
Your statement is a little inconclusive. Will the transmission shift when the engine is turned off, but not shift when the engine is running? If it is jammed and refusing to move even with the engine off, the problem will be inside the gearbox and usually related to the selector forks and or rods. If the the problem is there only when the engine is running the problem will be related to the clutch assembly, which is failing to disengage the gearbox from the engine
Many sending units do not have continuity below 6-7psi. This would cause the gauge to read nothing and indicate a base engine problem. Some type of engine noise would be associated with this concern (ie. ticking, rattling). The sending unit or wire to the gauge could be open. This would be an electrical problem and have nothing to do with the engine. Along that same line would be a defective gauge.
Open up the engine cover- observe the coil when the engine is running-give it some gas- if you see arcing on the coil- this is your problem-I had a similar problem in rain especially-this solved it Open up the engine cover- observe the coil when the engine is running-give it some gas- if you see arcing on the coil- this is your problem-I had a similar problem in rain especially-this solved it
It should last the life of the car if you maintain the car as you should. Let the engine start running rich and do nothing to repair this condition and it will destroy the converter. But keep the engine tuned up and running as it should and you will never have to replace the converter. NEVER had a problem with my 1996 HONDA ACCORD engine and CATALYTIC CONVERTER needed to be replaced at 220,000 MILES.
NO. There conclusion was that it is a NORMAL problem with the 6.0L and 5.3L engines and that it will not do any HARM are cause a early engine problem as long as you let the engine idle and warm up to running temperature before driving.The noise that you hear are the PISTONS slapping in the cylinders when engine is cold. As the engine warms up the piston expand and tighten up in the cylinders and the noise goes away. That is SAD. For a company such as Chevy to do NOTHING about that problem. I own a 2000 6.0L too, and it is also noisy on start up.
If the car is on (Ignition is on, engine is running) then no. Nothing should drain the battery when the car is running, there is a device called an alternator with a belt that usually goes around the crankshaft that transforms the mechanical energy into electrical energy. As long as you have the car running, the battery should not die. If so, you have a mechanical problem.
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