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May go out after filling and driving. Give it a few days before getting it looked at. Below are some insights.

Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active. Disconnecting the battery can create other headaches and will not likely solve your dilemma. Best bet is to contact the local snap-on dealer and have him refer you to a known good shop that specializes in this technology-he will know.

The "check engine light" is a warning light that is illuminated, usually when there is a problem with the emission system, but may also occur if the computer detects a misfiring cylinder, knocking, or other symptom of your engine running outside of its normal operation.

It is a good thing once you understand it.

A check engine light is often simply the result of a loose gas cap, which triggers error code P0452.

But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place.

After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (on board diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems. Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult. Many early warning light of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An Oxygen sensor was one of the things that were meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights� that are set based on a pre-set mileage.

In this specific case, where the check engine light and the low fuel light come on at nearly the same time, it is possible that the check engine light came on because the engine ran lean for a second or two, caused by low fuel pump pressure, which in turn was caused by low fuel level in the tank. If the engine is running normally and smoothly, fill the tank and give it a few days use to see if the light goes off before seeking further help. If the engine is not running well, lacks power, or otherwise seems abnormal, further troubleshooting is required immediately.

Many auto parts supply stores will read the OBD-II code from your car at no charge.

Was it the "Check Engine" light or the "Check Gauge" light that came on? I know some of the later fords had a check gauge light that would come on if you left your fuel filler cap off or loose, or if you were low on fuel.

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Q: If a 1999 Ford Contour was low on fuel and the check engine light came on and 20 seconds later the fuel light came on are they connected?
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