No. The relay is what actuates the starter motor, whenn you turn the key to the start position.
follow the wire from the positive side of the battery it will lead you to it
I had the same problem. Putting in a new starter relay and changing out the battery cables fixed the issue.
in the fuse box under the hood, driver's side. I have a 1996 GMC Sonoma 2.2 I have about the same question?If anyone can answer for me? Does the starter relay cause the ignition switch to have a delay when starting? Seems I have a 1-2 sec.delay when turning the ignition key seems not right.Is this normal? Also? I have a brand new starter & Battery installed 3 months ago.Now it won't hit a lick.If I turn the ignition key over a few 20 times maybe it will startup. Could it be a starter relay?
I have changed the starter relay at least 10 times. FinaLLY CHANGED THE STARTER> WORKED FOR AWHILE then the relay started sticking again and burned up another starter. First I thought it was residual magnetism keeping the coil in the relay energized. Then, contacted car quest about possible bad relays. Disconnected all voltage from relay, ignition and battery. The contacts were still in the closed position energizing the starter when positive from the battery was connected to the relay, no voltage from ignition, wire off. I suspect now the starter is pulling so much current it is melting the contacts together . So far I have not came up with a solution. Driving me nuts!!! The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting change. Sounds like you need a professional diagnosis.
== == Follow the positive battery cable down from the battery until you hit the relay. The starter relay is located next to the battery. On the positive battery post, (red) you will see 2 red wires, one thicker than the other one, The thicker one connects to the starter SOLENOID which is attached to the Starter, while the thinner of the two wires off of the battery goes to the starter RELAY, which is where you will find your alternators B+ charging wire, and your connections for fuel pump ballast resistor,starter solenoid, ignition terminal and ground terminal. All the wires connecting to the Starter relay are connected with spade terminals and use FUSIBLE LINKS between the actual terminal and the red wire. The FUSIBLE LINKS are your protection for that circuit, and should not be replaced with regular wire at any cost, but replaced with a new piece of FUSIBLE LINK of the same gauge as the one removed.
i have same car and after changing battery and terminals i found out it was th oxygen sensor
Maybe on top of the starter Follow + battery cable should be connected to same
There's no starter relay on the 1992 nisssan sentra, but there is a ignition relay which controls the starter and this should be located somewhere in the engine compartment where the relay box is
NO, they are not.
Probably not a bad ignition switch, but more likely a bad starter solenoid. It takes a lot of current to get a starter to turn, to much to go through such a small switch like the ignition switch. The ignition switch actually controls a relay(solenoid) which can handle the needed current to get the starter going. On a lot of modern cars the solenoid is built into the starter unlike older cars and trucks where it was mounted on the firewall between the battery and the starter.
I would suspect a defective ignition switch. I would be more inclined to believe it was the starter relay/solenoid thingy i used to have an old amc eagle. and it did same thing starter wouldn't disengage. I replaced the solenoid/starter relay and it worked fine after that.
I have a 99 4runner 3.4 V6 AT. My starter relay is located in the main fuse box located directly behind the battery ( on the driver's side of the engine compartment). I have been having problems with starting my car- only hearing a single click each time I turned the ignition. I have replaced the battery and battery terminals, to no avail. I have checked the connections at the starter motor and they look fine. I am now in the process of replacing the starter relay before I go through the trouble of removing the starter motor. Another blog site had an entry which parallelled my problem, and the writer went through 4 new starters before finally replacing the relay (which fixed the problem). I hope I have the same result today when I snap in the new relay. By the way, to remove the starter relay switch, locate its position from the diagram on the outside cover of the fuse box, then use a flat head screwdriver to separate the plastic housing from the relay switch and lift up. If you pull too hard, you may crack the relay cover and kill yourself (just kidding). As a precaution, I always disconnect the battery before starting.