You may have a loose clutch cable.
There isn't any linkage, it has a cable, check to see if the cable is loose. There is a U clip that holds the cable in place,if the U clip is in place and there isn't any slack in the cable, it could be your tranny. Is the clutch disengaging? If when you push the clutch in the engine can be turned over or the car can be pushed, it is not a problem with the clutch.
Behind the right front tire you will see where your clutch cable attaches to your clutch arm, holding on to the cable with a pliers, take an 11mm socket and wrench and turn the nut on the backside clockwise until your clutch is where you want it. Now if you have tighned up the nut all the way and it's still loose you need to take out the clutch pedal and check to see if the threads at the end are twisted, if so replace immediately, I had 1 snap off on me.
right behind the intake manifold, there is a cable that runs into the firewall that is attached to a bracket and arm. there is 2 nuts on the end of a cable. loosen the top nut to access the bottom nut. the looser the nut, the closer off the floor the pedal will release. the tighter you adjust the cable, the clutch will release farther up with the clutch pedal. i adjust it fairly loose so i know the clutch is fully release when the pedal is fully extended. good luck.
it sounds like a loose clutch cable. can tighten from under hood or under clutch pedal.if that year has the adjustment.
Loosen the jamb nuts on the clutch cable adjuster (located under the rubber boot on the clutch cable under the gas tank behind the front forks). Lengthen the clutch cable to its shortest length. Remove the derby cover on the primary. Loosen the large nut you see on the clutch pack (11/16 ???). Once loose, take a screw driver and gently turn the inner screw clockwise until it bottoms out. DO NOT FORCE IT. Just turn until it touches. Then turn the screw out (counter clockwise) between 1/2 & 3/4 turn and retighten the large jamb nut. Reinstall the derby cover. Go back the clutch cable and adjust the cable out (longer) until there is about 1/8 to 3/16 inch space between the clutch lever housing and the cable end. pull and release the clutch lever harshly several times & recheck this clearance to be sure of proper adjustment. Relock the jamb nut at the cable boot location and slip the boot back over the adjuster.
Loose or corroded battery cable? Loose cable at starter? Bad starter? Bad starter solenoid? Bad or misadjusted clutch safety switch?
Check for a bad battery cable. Check for a loose cable connection on the starter motor. It is possible that the neutral safety switch is dirty or loose. Or the clutch switch is dirty or loose. Any failure in the above listed components can contribute to hard starting.
This may depend on why you are replacing the cable. If the cable broke at the clutch end, then you'll simply remove that part, keeping the washers, etc. from that end. If not, then you'll need to use a screw driver to remove it (Look just BEHIND the plastic housing on the top of the motor and you'll see what looks like a wormy-looking piece of rubber... this is near the end of your cable.) After you remove that, you need to get under your clutch pedal and pop the pin that holds it in place (unless this is why you're replacing it, then it MAY be detached, but not necessarily.) Once you've detached both ends, you'll need to pull the cable through the fire-wall. Keep track of which washers, etc. go where and what end goes where, although it outta be pretty easy once you find the clutch cable! Put the new cable through the firewall, then attach the cable to the pedal under the steering wheel. You'll need to put the new pin back through the back of the clutch pedal.After you're done with that, under the hood (there's also an adjustment there, and you want the clutch to fully engage OR you can damage your clutch driving it without adjusting it properly!) you'll need to reattach that end of the clutch cable, THEN BE SURE TO ADJUST IT PROPERLY! When you push the clutch pedal, the clutch should fully engage (With the pedal fully depressed, the car should NOT be in gear at all!). You can get away with a little bit of driving with it somewhat out of adjustment, BUT you do NOT want to drive it if it it's too loose or too tight (generally it's best to start off a little loose, then tighten it until it's right where it outta be, and you can feel it... there outta be no slippage whatsoever! If so, it's too loose. Best to you and all the other Subie owners out there! The best cars on the road! :) Hope this helps!
Clutch is not adjusted properly.
If the clutch pedal feels loose or if it's particularly hard to shift, then probably.
Engine seized? Weak or dead battery? Loose or corroded battery cable? Loose wire on starter? Bad starter solenoid? Bad neutral or clutch safety switch? Bad ignition switch?
Engine seized? Dead battery? Loose or corroded battery cable? Bad starter? Bad starter solenoid? Bad neutral or clutch safety switch?
its a hydraulic clutch and needs no adjustment, if its loose it typically means its worn
The clutch will be very loose and it will be hard to come out of any gear.
neg cable bolted to the body of car.
There is a steel tube inside your hump in the floor. The clutch cable runs through it from the pedals to the rear of the car. It is welded to secure it from moving inside the tunnel. When one of these mounts breaks loose, you'll hear a popping sound when you push the clutch. you might also feel the pop through the pedal.
First you must get under the engine to unscrew the extremity of he cable fixed to the clutch lever. Once you are able to release this extremity of the cable, its done at one end and you must go inside your car. The best is to completely remove the driver seat. If you don't want to do it, at least, push it back to the maximum to have the most space you can under the driving wheel. It is better to get a good light (but small) to see (try to) what you are doing in this small space. The first thing to do once you are installed is to pull hard on the cable to get some loose inside. The isolation bushing should get out of its place. Once you think you have got enough loose (6 inches), have a look to the extremity of the clutch pedal, where the cable is fixed. With a long (one foot) flat screw driver, you have to push the extremity of the cable, really the cable, to loosen it from the extremity braket. Once done, with the same screw driver, you have to push the braket towards the front and the top. If you do it well, the bracket should jump from its place on the pedal. At this point, your cable is no longer attach to the clutch pedal. Then you noticed for sure that the extremity of the cable gaine is attached to a kind of plate which is welded to the two pedal boxes apart. The final thing to do is to push on a piece of black metal, on top of the plate, that prevents the cable sheath to be removed (it is hard to see but easy to do). Once done, you can remove the cable by pulling the cable sheath down and then pulling towards yourself. There are two bushing along the engine (or transmission) that guide the clutch cable from the pedal to the clutch. Before pulling everything off, make sure to remove those from their place.
Check for a loose or corroded ground or battery cable Check for a loose or corroded ground or battery cable
If the hard drive cable is disconnected or loose
That a cable with a primary function to the computer working properly is loose, thus impairing the computer's ability to work properly.
Remove the transmission side of the cable first. To do this you grab the cable with one hand and pull the cable up slightly to release pressure on the black tensioning nut. Unscrew the nut until it doesn't touch the transmission anymore. The cable is now loose enough to pull the bottom gromet sideways through the clutch arm. You will see there is a gap or notch in the arm where you can slip the cable sideways through it. Then pull the cable up through the hole where the nut was tensioned. Next get inside the car and lay upside down (facing up) under the dash. Follow the clutch pedal up to the top with your hand, to where the clutchpedal has a hook. The cable is simply hooked onto the pedal. Slip the cable end off the top of the hook on the pedal. Then head back to the engine bay and pull the cable out of the hole in the engine compartment. Pretty simple, you can do it in 10 minutes.
The clutch has a safety switch that prevents the engine from starting unless the clutch is depressed. If you kicked the switch or a wire loose, this would caause a no start. Look for loose wires or componants near the clutch pedal and reattach as needed.
Cable could be loose.
If it has a mechanical speedo,take the negative battery cable loose first then take the spedo housing loose from the speedo first then pull the cable out of the housing. Then take the housing loose at the bottom and remove the part of the cable that is twisted off. Get a new cable and install it with lots of cable lubricant. Then hook up the botton end then the top end of the housing. Hook up the neg battery cable