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There could be very many reasons, but right now I can only think of two possibilities to check: 1] Due to the fact that you say the fuses and/or relays for these disabled circuits are "good," and the relatively unusual nature of having so many circuits "dead" at the same time, it is possible that you have had a "FUSIBLE LINK" fail [blow out]. Fusible links act like fuses, doing the same thing, except that they do not "look" like the fuses you are used to, and they generally serve major power using circuits, like power seats, or power windows, or MULTIPLE circuit devices, like the entire fuse block. Fusible links are really nothing more than a wire[s] like all the others in your vehicle, except they are generally smaller in diameter than the sum diameters of the multiple wires/circuits they protect. Generally, fusible links are located VERY near the battery, and on some vehicles actually connect to the positive terminal clamp.* Since it appears you are not experienced with fusible links, it will be very difficult to identify them. I suggest that you first examine ALL wires near the battery, looking for INSULATION which is HEAT DAMAGED as a result of serious overheating of the wire conductor inside. Occasionally, the insulation will be burned to a "crisp" which is relatively easy to spot. Most of the time, the only visible clue will be a cooked/burned "line" running along the wire insulation. It would be of immense help to have the assistance of someone who has "been down this road before." Barring that help, it will be necessary to use an auto shop and/or a PROFESSIONAL AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICAL TECHNICIAN. 2] Another possibility is that a wiring harness connector has either become disconnected, or the contacts burned, and/or the contacts so corroded that the resistance has become so high that electrical current cannot pass. This also requires careful examination of all connectors, by disconnection and exam of all contacts, and proper and FIRM reconnection. If any connector contacts are burned, they must be replaced. If the contacts are only corroded, it may be possible to clean them. If you are unable to find anything out of the ordinary, again, you will need the services of a PROFESSIONAL AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICAL TECHNICIAN. Good luck. *Fusible links are nothing more than a short section of wire -- 1 to 2 inches long, two (2) wire gauge sizes smaller than the bus that they protect. For example, if the wire from the battery to an accessory is served by a #12 AWG wire, the fusible link will be made of the same type of material, except it will be #14 AWG. (The larger the AWG number, the smaller the wire diameter.) If you can't get a replacement fusible link from your dealer or from the auto parts store, it can be improvised by splicing in the appropriate size wire, once you've determined the size of the bus to be protected. The idea of a fusible link is to create a weak spot in the bus at a known location, so that if the bus is overloaded, the link will burn out, protecting the rest of the wiring harness.

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โˆ™ 2009-04-11 22:18:03
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Q: No dash instruments working no radiator fan no windows or seatbelts alt and batt only 6 months old and none of the fuses or relays are bad what do you do?
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