A couple of things come to mind on this problem. First, just because you purchased a new alternator does not guarantee that it will work properly. I have purchased several in my lifetime that I've had to take back to the parts house and have them checked...only to have them give me another because their "new or rebuilt" alternator was faulty. Most auto parts stores have the capability of checking the alternator (always a good idea to have them do before walking out the door with the "new" alternator...will save you a trip and much frustration).
Secondly, your battery may have a partially shorted cell. Your car battery is actually comprised of 6 cells, each producing approximately 2 volts. When a battery ages, some of the material on the lead plates will sluff off of the plates and settle in the bottom of the battery. If this material builds up to the point where it touches the cell plates, it will short out those plates. Sometimes it's just enough to prevent the battery from coming to a full charge (but not enough to give indications of a bad battery when checking unloaded voltage.) Take your battery to an auto parts place and they will check it for free for this condition. The cause for your check engine light can be determined with an ODB-II scanner. This scanner plugs into a special plug underneath your stearing column. It then collects error information from your Astro's computer. It will also allow you to clear your Check Engine light. Many auto parts stores have tool rental/loaner programs. The one I use simply has you pay the full amount for the scanner and then you can bring it back at anytime for a full refund. By the way, ODB-II scanners are generic to all vehicles sold in the US (after 1997...not absolutely sure on the date). Anyway, if you rent the tool, it would be a good time to check all of your vehicles...often they will have error codes that will give indication of a pending problem..could save you a hassle by taking care of the problem before a component completely fails).
If its on a charging console with the rechargeable battery it is probably overcharged if its battery is a normal battery then go to a game stop and get somebody to check it
Rather than assume, why not check the alternator? If an alternator is not functioning properly, the battery can only remain fully charged if the alternator replaces the electrical energy that has been used. Test the system to determine if there is an electrical drain, but start with the alternator first.
The yellow light is the WiFi signal, the orange is the console Charging and the blue/red light is how much battery is being used
If you mean the Xbox 360 console itself then no it doesn't need a battery, it gets plugged into an outlet. If you mean an Xbox 360 controller then yes it needs batteries, unless if you get a charging dock for it.
It means to change the battery on the control
Lipo batteries, or lithium polymer batteries, are batteries that you can recharge. They are commonly used in toys like flying helicopters and video game console controllers like the Wii, which you can buy a lipo battery and charging station for.
If you are talking about a lead/acid battery, the causes are either sulphation of the lead plates, or shorted plates, which in either case requires replacement of the battery. In the case of NiCad or NmH, the battery may have developed a "memory" in which case you should run the battery all the way down and recharge a few times. Because when its charging the charger gives it energy and when you use the system,phone or gaming console to much........the battery keeps lowing when you use it to much.So that's why.
By the AC adapter supplied with the console. You can also charge it by using a USB cable ( not supplied ). The battery is external so you can always replace it if you lose or damage it. Since the battery is a lithium one i am sure you can find a lithium battery charger that is commonly used for camera's aswell. Hope this can help...
Do you have an Xbox controller that can be plugged into the front of the console to charge the battery? This does not work for AA batteries, but only for the official batteries that only work in the controllers. If you are using this recharging system, make sure that you do not overcharge the battery. You need to disconnect it when it is done charging, as indicated by the lights. Leaving it on for too long is very bad for the battery itself, causing it to wear out or even overheat, so overcharging can shorten the battery's total lifespan.
The alternator probably isn't putting out properly. Go to AutoZone and have them check the alternator. If the new battery went completely dead, and you know the alternator is good, the culprit could be a "slow draw". This would be caused by a trunk light that stays on when the trunk is closed, a vanity mirror light, glove compartment light, console light; something that you assume goes out when it's closed, but doesn't. Check all of your courtesy light switches in these places to make sure they make proper contact. A glove compartment or console door that doesn't close properly could be the culprit. Until you find the problem, disconnect your battery when you're in for the night! If you can't resolve it on your own, find a shop that has a low amps probe. It'll determine where the draw is coming from.
The battery is where the screw is on the back of the ds lite. but dont take it out because it contains the console memory.
If you are trading it in, all they will want is the console, and the charger. You do not need the box, documents, or even the charging cradle.