People all seem to have their own method to this madness, but remove tire and brake assembly may have to tap on the rotor, or depending on the model it may not be removed at this point, remove wheel bearing nut cap, remove nut, remove think its eight 12mm bolts hub assembly should be loose now, remove ball joints from upper and lower control arms, remove tie rod, hub rotor and all should come off like butter, unbolt cv axle from front differential, dont worry diff is sealed no leaky leaky. It is common just to call it a cv joint job which I dont know if you only intend to replace the one bad cv joint ( inner or outer), but i advise you to do the entire axle it isn't that big of a price difference and if your in that deep mine as well do both. DN901
towing 5,200#, payload 2,150 - 2,450 depending on model
In the fuel tank
on the t100 its under the hood on drivers side. in a little box.half way down the fender well. hope that helps
I want to haul fire wood, but the half ton I have won't even have a full bed without rubbing the tires.
i have the 1991 toyota 4x4 with a g58 trans
If both are 4X4 then yes.
The ball joint should be permanently in the tie rod end. If it is bad, you have to replace the entire tie rod end.
No.
The Lug pattern for an '84 Toyota 4x4 is 6x5.5 The Lug pattern for an '84 Toyota 4x4 is 6x5.5
yes
My "new" 97 4x4 Extcab Automatic got 18 city and 20 Hiwy (not towing). Now at 165,000 miles I get 15 city and 18 hiwy (not towing). Just great!
No.