Either one can be used. Electricians prefer to use a solid wire and use the screw terminals rather that the pressure terminals. An eyelet can be formed with solid wire where as using stranded wire takes a bit more preparation to use. The stranded wire has to be wound tighter at the termination end. This is so that when the stranded wire is tightened under the screw terminal the wire does not splay into individual strands some of which do not get under the terminal screw. With some of the strands not tightened under the screw, this is the same as using a smaller size wire. The breaker feeding the receptacle is matched to a specific wire size. The now smaller wire size has a breaker greater than the ampacity of the wire. This could lead to overheating of the wire under full load and eventually cause a breakdown of the insulation. Once the insulation has broken down, the breaker will trip due to a short circuit. This wire will have to be replaced. This could involve opening the wall board to remove the burnt wiring should this happen.
Most residential wiring is done with solid copper wire. In industrial applications, stranded THHN wire is used because many wires are run through conduits from service boxes and many different colors and gauges can be run to different locations. I personally would not use stranded in a residential application.
For a home, to calculate the amount of receptacle outlets on a 15 amp circuit, each receptacle outlet should be calculated as not drawing more than one amp each.
Up. ---- I'm not sure what the question is getting at. USUALLY THIS QUESTION IS ASKED WITH REGARD TO THE "GROUND" PRONG of a standard 3wire, 120 volt receptacle In the USA there are no requirements which dictate whether a receptacle outlet should be mounted with the ground UP or DOWN. In fact, it is also proper to mount the receptacle horizontally.
A GFCI receptacle can extend its protection to regular receptacles connected to the output side of the GFCI. Each actual GFCI receptacle should be directly connected to a breaker in electric panel.
If you are refering to a wall receptacle, the one on the right is the hot side. The left side is the neutral and it's slot is larger that the hot one. The U shaped on the bottom is for the ground pin of the plug.
Yes, the receptacle will have to be terminated in a receptacle box of some kind. Construction usually use an FS type box with a 1/2" hub. A 1/2" strain relief connector is used to hold the extension cord into the FS box. Wire the white wire of the cord to the silver screw, black coloured wire to the brass screw and the green wire to the green ground screw on the receptacle. The cover plate should be weatherproof FS type if the cord is to be used outdoors. If for indoor use a normal steel cover plate designed for use on a FS box will work fine. If strictly for indoor use, a box called an 1110 utility box, will also work to hold the receptacle.
terminals one and two
Pressure is equal to voltage and is the potential deference between the capacitor two terminals
Check the resistance across the terminals. Should be around 5 ohms.
The "TEST" button is there for you to check the GFCI is operating correctly. When you test the GFCI using its Test button it should trip to break the circuit. Then anything connected to that circuit will have no power. It sounds like the light in the other room is wired to the same circuit as the one you are working on, so, if the GFCI is tripped - such as when you press the Test button - no outlet in that circuit will be able to work until you reset the GFCI using its "RESET" button.If what happens is as was just described then your GFCI is working as it was designed to do. If you are talking about a GFCI receptacle, and wired the receptacle as it shows you how to on the instruction sheet, then everything down stream from the receptacle is protected, along with the actual receptacle that you just installed. The bottom set of terminals on the receptacle that states the word "load", is where the wires leaving the receptacle box should be connected to. Incoming power to the top terminals of the receptacle outgoing power to the next receptacle to the bottom terminals. This allows the GFCI receptacle to protect every other receptacle that is connected down stream on that circuit. If you check closely to the other receptacles that are connected, you will find that they also will be off when you push the test button. ----- As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOBSAFELY AND COMPETENTLYREFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Oil terminals? What is an oil terminal?
Your 110 volt washer receptacle sounds like it is not a dedicated circuit directly fed from the distribution panel as it should be. It sounds like someone has tapped off of one side of the dryer receptacle hot and neutral terminals and run them to the receptacle for the washer. If true, this would have been done in the back side of the dryer receptacles which is located in the wall. You best get it checked out because it is likely the wire feeding the washer receptacle is a #14 rated at 15 amps and is undersized for a 30 amp breaker. A #10 wire has the capacity to be connected to a 30 amp breaker which you should find the dryer's connection to be.
ensure all power has been removed from the receptacle lines
For a home, to calculate the amount of receptacle outlets on a 15 amp circuit, each receptacle outlet should be calculated as not drawing more than one amp each.
Yes, most definitely. Provisions for the ground wire in the dryer receptacle should be used. The feeder cable's ground wire is first grounded to the receptacle's junction box ground screw and then taken to the receptacle's ground terminal. The dryer plug configuration will match up to the dryers four wire plug in cable. When the plug is connected into the dryer receptacle the ground terminals of both devices will match and the ground wire will be continuous from the voltage source at the distribution panel and complete the circuit at the dryer. This low impedance electrical path will conduct any ground fault that could occur at the dryer and trip the feeder breaker of the dryer circuit, there by removing the fault current from the dryer circuit.
No, it is against the National Electrical Code to wire a receptacle with the wrong voltage. You should call a qualified electrician to change the 250V receptacle to a 125V receptacle.
the ground plug should be up
The power steering receptacle should be on top left side of the motor in front of the alternator in a black box with a cap on the 3.1L V6