Unless it was built with high compression and or a "big" cam causing high cylinder pressures a stocker should suffice .
The starter is located at the front of the engine (front of the car). Look at the engine from underneath, just behind the radiator - follow the heavy gauge black wire to the starter itself.
Heavy corrosion will prevent enough power from getting to the starter to spin fast enough to start the engine.
it is under the engin...it should be connected to a cylinder chaped part it is about a foot long and 4 inches wide it should be heavy....take that off and you should see the starter on it bolt that off and if you touch the wiers to the batterie it will show you if it works or not
Between your 'ignition switch' and your engine are: 1. a starter relay which should operate when you turn the ignition switch 2. there may also be a heavy-duty contactor,(which can carry the starter motor current) 3. the starter motor itself, which cranks over the car engine. A very common fault is for the gear teeth on the starter motor to become locked with the gear teeth on the engine flywheel. Commonly these can be forced to disengage by rocking the car back and forth with the engine in gear and the ignition switch OFF. Alternately if these gear teeth are visible, you may be able to disengage them with a heavy screwdriver. Obviously the one (or two) relays should be checked for operation. You should be able to hear them or see them operate.
That's the most likely reason, yes a bad solenoid. I like to go in order to diagnose a problem so to get to that decision I'd start by : Kick the engine over or hit the starter button and turn the engine over. If it does not turn over, either the starter or starter gears are bad, transmission is stuck, or the engine is stuck. If the starter solenoid clicks, but the starter does not turn, check the charge of the battery. If the battery is fully charged, use some heavy jumper cables and connect the positive jumper cable directly to the starter cable. That's the big, thick, cable going from the starter solenoid to the starter. When you make the connection, there will be a big spark and the starter should turn. If it does, the solenoid is bad. If nothing happens, the starter cable is broken or the starter is bad. Try connecting directly to the starter motor, if possible. If the starter turns, but the engine does not, the starter gears or starter clutch is bad. If the starter does not turn, either the starter is bad or the engine is stuck.
below the engine, passenger side, at the rear. 1 small trigger wire, 1 heavy battery cable, 2 starter mounting bolts.
The starter goes with the engine, not with the truck. I've never measured torque when replacing a starter on a medium- or heavy duty truck... just ensure it's properly seated, ensure its secure, and roll with it.
When a engine is real cold, The oil in it becomes thick and heavy, The intire engine contracks and everything inside of it gets tighter then it would be if is was warm. So in terms; The starter has to be in good working condition to be able to turn the engine over. There's alot of starter problems in the winter time.
It is on the starter itself and is called the starter solenoid. Heavy current is handled by the solenoid which is activated by the ignition switch. Current comes from the igniton switch, then to the s terminal on the starter which then connects heavy amperage to the starter motor itself.
The Escort doesn't have a starter relay. It has a solenoid on the starter that handles the heavy amperage.
On top of the starter. Disconnect the negative ground to the battery, get under and pull the two starter bolts, back the starter out of the bellhousing to get to the two wires on the solenoid. Be careful: the starter is heavy, and will swing toward the pan rail on the engine block. It takes a year for a thumbnail to grow back.
There isn't one. The heavy positive cable goes directly to the starter. The solenoid is what transfers the heavy amperage to the starter. The wire from the ignition goes to the connector marked s.