Replace the tiles. Makes it easier to clean the water line. Stains and oils will be permanent if you don't.
I replaced the liner and kept the old coping. Now, five years later, the coping is failing. It has cracks and splits and looks terrible. If I had it to do all over again, I would have replaced the coping. There were signs of deterioration that I had ignored. The small seam covers had mostly broken off. Blaming the kids, I got some replacements from the company that had installed the pool originally. The lasted on season. Your coping may be failing. Why take the chance?
If the decking shifts,rises and moves it will push on the coping of the pool. Also, this helps keep water from under the pool and if the ground has moisture until it and freezes then it cause the deck to rise.
inyopools carries the coping for the tops of the above ground liners really reseanable price.
Unless it is in a place where you can glue it and it will not be noticable I would try to replace it. If you have the piece you can use a plastic welder to repair it.
Pool coping should be level. If it is "bullnose" brick they should all be about the save height all the way around the pool. A cantilever coping should be level as well. there should be no toe stubbers.
I have a feeling that what happened to you is exactly what happened to me, but it's not the gunite that dropped. Your pool deck rose. I wondered the same thing. It's kind of an optical illusion. The ground froze under the decking and caused it to push up. Thank goodness for that expansion joint between the decking and the coping, or my coping would have all broken off into the pool. We had a few little edges crack off which will require some minor repair, but like yours, our decking did go back down after a few days of warmer weather. Scared the you-know-what out of me when I first saw it, though. My pool guy said that the gunite is so thick, it's not going anywhere. Good luck!
Yes you can! We have a pool and my dad fixed ours.
Nothing, the coping should slope back away from the pool
I've got the same question except my pool is 20 years old. It's 18' by 38'. Bill I did this about 2 years ago. It was more than I wanted to do but well worth it. The vinyl liner was needing replaced and I originally wanted a fibreglass coat put in. When we emptied the pool we discovered that the floor of the pool was not built for a gunite frame. So we had to take out the sides and floor and rebuild the frame and put on the gunite. It was about $17,000 all inclusive in 2002. New steps and a light were included. As a professional pool builder that has shot gunite pool shells inside existing vinyl liner pools, I can tell you that the job is actually harder than building a pool from scratch. If your just going to shoot inside the existing hole the pool will end up being smaller and shallower as well to accommodate for the 6 inches of gunite that will be added. All of the existing returns have to be cut out and extended to allow for this, the main drain should be dug up and replaced with a gunite drain, and the skimmer should be cut out and replaced with a gunite skimmer. the deck should be cut back, but alternately coping can be installed to line back up with the existing deck. The deck will have to be cut out around the vinyl skimmer to make way for the gunite skimmer replacement, I have seen people not replace the skimmer but this leaves a good place for a future leak, I wouldn't recommend it. The plastic steps will have to be removed as well. You may want the bottom dug out so it can be made deeper and larger as the hopper area on most vinyl pools are small and tapered. It's a job to say the least, but it is possible. Cost wise it will probably run more than building a gunite pool from scratch. The only things you are using over is the deck, the hole, and the Plumbing.For more information howtobuildaningroundpool.com
When I have to remove broken keys, I typically use a couple small picks and fish it out that way.Purchase the smallest coping saw or scroll saw blade you can find with the finest teeth then break the blade in half. Insert the broken end with the teeth pointing back into the key opening. With a little gentle wiggling you should be able to grip the broken key and pull it out.
Make a tool to remove it: Take an old coping saw blade, grind it to a gradual point than stretches over a few inches. Wrap electrical tape around the thicker part to use for the handle. The teeth of the coping saw blade can get a grip on the broken key and pull it out.