Colored surfaces are basically an aesthetic choice by the owner of the pool. It is a myth that the darker the surface the warmer the pool. To illustrate, put a black plate and a white plate in the bottom of the pool. Remove them a few hours later and see if there is any temperature difference between them. There won't be. I've tried this. Water absorbs all the heat from the sun in the top 12 inches and never has a chance to reach the bottom. I have also monitored the temp. in white and black bottom pools that were next door to each other and had virtually identical conditions....no difference. Actually I have done this 3 times in the last 34 years to prove this point. Won a $500 bet on one them:-) Evaporative cooling is the single most important factor in pool temps. Every 7 mph of wind velocity doubles the evaporation rate.
It depends on many factors including the type of surface you choose (Diamond Brite, White Plaster, Pebbletec, etc.), and the type of coping stones, but I would estimate around $3,000 and $6,000.
As with all design choices, the answer is it depends on what you are trying to achieve. First, let's start with a few basics on understanding the comparison. A genuine Kool Deck brand surface from Mortex Mfg. is a pure cementitious topping unlike an "acrylic", which is a polymer modified cement. A Kool Deck surface will undoubtedly have a lower relative surface temperature than an equivalent acrylic topping of the similar color and will also be more skid-resistant when either wet or dry. A polymer modified cement topping will generally have much better stain resistance than a Kool Deck surface (which can be enhanced to provide similar stain resistance at a cost). Polymer toppings for the most part are deemed easier to apply and require less people for a job. This simplicity does come at a price, as the cost of materials is significantly higher than all the materials required for a Kool Deck surface. The major hurdle for those looking for Kool Deck surface is finding a skilled applicator to insure a proper application - look at the work of the contractor and do your homework!
Bottom line is that a Kool Deck surface is still the best choice for barefoot areas where comfort is king, while polymers are better suited for deck areas expecting staining problems, customer wants custom patterns, or applicators are more comfortable installing the latter.
Sun Deck is an acrylic concrete deck finish that is very durable, stain resistant, and cool. Also quite popular in South Texas.
a starting point might be mother earth news. they go over living pool and talk about materials. you could always add a pump, filter, waterfall, fountain to maintain your pool. motherearthnews
go to archives issue 193
august/September 2002 issueAnswerWe had the same problem. I scoured libraries, bookstores and the net. I tried engineers as well. We were looking to build our own indoor pool - there are seemingly no experts that cover the construction, humidity concerns etc... My best reference was the internet and about 400 hours plus. I grew up with a pool, ran a pool - including maintenance - but always outdoors. I looked for postings in the end in which people were asking for help with specific problems ie leaks, mold, shifting etc... so I could troubleshoot. We've built our own indoor pool - saving thousands and thousands of dollars and haven't had any problems. I would do it again in a second. Do you have a specific question? I'd love to help if I can, thanks, Kelli AnswerI built my own pool a few years back in Chandler Arizona.
It took a bunch of work and research on my part and a lot of time. I documented my experience on a website:
http://www.howibuiltmyownpool.com/AnswerBuild your own pool information -- you can get it from many sources, but the swimming pool professional starts with the Bible from ANSI/NSPI, not to mention many hours of TECH Cert classes, mfgr seminars, state and local requirements, advanced schooling, just to name a few.
Non-licensed individuals rely on OJT, friends and what engineers know as SWAG.
It's easy to hire a swimming pool professional, engineer, or architect to handle your project. You get what you pay for and piece of mind when you hire a professional who is licensed and insured.
Are your looking for a reference on construction codes for an inground pool. The latest codes are ANSI/NSPI-5 2003 55 Pages of the most current codes adopted by most building officials. This is just one reference for sale. Last I knew you could order it from ANSI for around 200.00. You cant expect your local library to keep current on construction building codes, on the budgets they have a hard time keeping up on the newest poly sci rags.
On a very serious and noteworthy item is dual main drains, you're responsible for building with the most current standards as the contractor. You will also note changes to slope and walls in all swimming pools. Believe me the old liners cheap and for sale show up every day that do not meet code. Every day I find many suppliers unaware of changes that's a real fact. Swim safe hire a licensed insured swimming pool professional.ANSWERBuy the pool kit through a reputable pool dealer, get plenty of advice and have someone reliable guide you through it, tell you the next step, a man who has built pools and knows what they are doing.
-- First, no manufacturer of fiberglass pools guarantees against cracks. Period.
-- Second, all pools can have problems when the water is emptied; when leaks are not repaired in a timely fashion; or when the water is lower than the surrounding groundwater.
Fiberglass pools are great: They can be installed with fewer subcontractors and in less time than a gunite pool. And they also have a smooth surface. Gunite pools have many choices and are not limited in size, shape or depth. They also have many smooth surface options and color choices and warranties vary.
Last and most important: YES, it takes a professional to install any in-ground swimming pool. If you don't hire one, you most likely will not get a good pool -- no matter what the shell is constructed of. It takes many years to learn to be a pool professional; this is not a craft that happens overnight.
Hire a professional, licensed, insured pool pro to get the pool you expect and to save money in the long run. Read your warranty: The fiberglass manufacturers have great warranties, as do the gunite manufacturers and even the Vinyl Liner in-ground pools alike.Here is more input from others:="h2headingh3"style="color:rgb(0,0,0);"name="here_is_more_input_from_others:">
I am a fiberglass swimming pool installer. 12 years and counting with A++ knowledge and record. FYI- I have scene floating gunite pools and floating vinyl liners. If a pool develops a leak or the ground shifts or flooding occurs, it does not matter what type of pool you have, if there is more water on the outside of the pool shell than on the inside, something has to give. The liner pools develope floating liners even being full if there is a ground water issue and no precautions are taken during the install. Such as sump systems for the ground water.
Fiberglass Is 17 times denser that concrete giving it strength and more flexibility. I have seen them move up to as much as 5'' and hold their integrity.
Now. If the proper installation is applied to the life time warrenty shell, it to can be a lifetime backyard enjoyment for the family. The installation preperation and consideration of all elements and ground conditions to the area makes each and every pool install differant. Never one the same. So look at all of the variables involved with your backyard and keep in mind, If I you willing to spend your hard earned money on something that needs to last at least 20 plus years, what can be done during the install to help the projects longevity and your future sanity?="margin-right:0px">
yes you can put tile over almost anything. The most important item would be that the mastic / or adhesive would be required to be a water proof, (non affected) type, and dry with a certain amount of flexibility. The best type is a silicone based adhesive that will remain a little pliable. There can be no water during the adhesion process though, and you will not be able to use a normal grout. They make grout simulated materials that are similar to silicone as well, but without sheen and therefore give a finished look.
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You probably need to have the leak fixed that is most likely causing the deck to heave.
Determine why the deck heaved. Trees and ground movement can also cause decks to heave. Sometimes you can cut the deck at a control joint and it will drop back down. If it is saturated expansive soil the source of the water must be stopped. I have seen decks go back down when the soil dried out as long as no soil displacement occurred. Most of the time however you need to remove the bad part and replace it.
10.000 to 100.000 dollars
Summary: A mixture of cement and sand sprayed onto contoured and supported surfaces to build a pool. Gunite is mixed and pumped to the site dry, and water is added at the point of application. Plaster is usually applied over the gunite. The plaster is actually the material that is visible and that comes into contact with the water (not the underlying gunite cement structure).
More details: "Gunite" is a trade name for "dry gunned" concrete, invented and patented by a North Carolina man. The term "gunite" has been used so much that, to most people, it means spray applied concrete. People often talk about a gunite pool -- meaning a concrete pool where the concrete is pneumatically applied or sprayed in place using air pressure. Many of us in the concrete spraying business have started using the term "dry gun" to delineate this process.
"Dry gun" means the cement and sand are injected into an air stream conveying it to the nozzle. The nozzle operator then adds the water at the nozzle and has total control of the water-cement ratio. The delivery hose of the mix is generally quite light, as the hose is mostly filled with air containing the mix of cement and sand.
That is a lot like the Question: Which is better Ford,Chevy or GMC. It is all personal preference. A pool manufacturer has to meet strict guidelines in order to offer their goods to the public. It's not a matter of opinion, there are many differences in the fiberglass pool you purchase. Most fiberglass pool manufacturer's do offer a lifetime warranty of the structure of the pool but the surface warranty is very important as well. Most pool companies that install pools do not bring this to your attention because only three companies have a some what representable warranty. Most manufacturer's only have a one year surface warranty only covering osmotic blistering. Composite Pools and Viking offer a 3 year unconditional and 4 year pro-rated. Leisure Pools actually offers the best warranty on the surface with a 10 year unconditional warranty covering not only osmotic blistering but surface yellowing, cobalting, fading and discoloration and hairline cracks. So no it is not a matter of opinion it's simply the truth, you must look in depth about the pool warranty, it can tell you a lot about the product. First please hire only a licensed and insured pool builder. Which pool is better? Fiberglass is a good choice, and will last a lifetime but must be installed properly! Your pool professional did not learn to build quality overnight, and it takes years of experience in many areas of construction to become a pro. So since it takes years of experience to be a pool builder, you get what you pay for. Most find the sweetness of an unusually low price are long forgotten by the horror of expensive litigation or something worse.
Level Ground is a Must For Above Ground Pools.You should determine were the pool will be located and always find the lowest level in that area and remove dirt to match that level. If you always dig down to the hard ground before assembling an above ground pool, you will 99.9% of the time never have to worry about settling or shifting in the wall or legs that support the wall. Always for extra peace of mind put cement blocks under each leg brace. Get ground level, layout your bottom tract and mark each footer, then dig out under that marked area making the top of the footer block level with the rest of the already leveled ground. If you will take the extra time to prepare the base of pool wall support, everything else will be a breeze putting together.
The only advantage to quartz over standard pebles is that quartz does not impart any hardness to the water. However, this is mute point compared to the evaporation that could more than double the hardness readings every season. So choose the color stone you like and enjoy your swim.
Personally, I do not like the original pebble products, as they are rough on your feet. Also, it is difficult to get a tight seal around light and returns. Therefore, you lose small amounts of water there.
* Yes, you can drain it. DO NOT leave it empty, however, but refill promptly. If the pool is empty and there is a lot of water in the ground soil, it could cause the pool to float and crack. == == * I have had this house for 4 years and have drained my gunite pool every spring, acid-washed it and refilled it. So far no problems. It does need resurfacing, but not because of what we did. It needed that when we bought the house. I understand that the cost of that is about $10,000. Which means... it might rather be a pond, or a cemented area with an above-ground pool.
* Pools should not be drained completely unless the water table is low. Otherwise water table pressure can damage an empty pool. I never drain my in-ground pool more than 18" below the deck, and keep chlorine tablets in floaters in the pool all winter, which cuts down on brackishness. Removing cover & cleaning in spring just means brushing & vacuuming everything to the filter, then backwash. Sparkling water in one or two days.
* When I lived in Texas, people with this problem installed plastic liners. Some of the ones I saw looked like a tiled pool.
Well there aren't many inflatable pools for dolls but there is plastic pools. Pretty small but it might work it is the Barbie Glam Pool Play set and also Barbie Puppy Swim School Set it looks much bigger. I hoped I helped.
All fiberglass has a final coating of gel coat, it could be marine gel coat, tooling gel coat, or swimming pool gel coat. Typically, swimming pool gel coat will last about 20 years before it loses effectivness. At that point, algae becomes able to "cling", the surface begins to stain, and the actual fiberglass becomes evident to swimmers, causing scratches. There is only one solution, lightly sand off the remaining gel coat, wash down the pool, apply one coat of vinyl ester resin, and roll-on 3 coats of swimming pool gel coat. The pool will be as good as new for another 20 years, provided the pool is properly cared for.
Of course but not by very much. A thick liner can be stretched to seven or eight feet down if you'd like one end to be deeper. Discuss it with your building contractor.
You also have to be careful about the wall collapsing if you go to deep. It's a problem that we're running into more and more.
It depends how big it is and where it is going to go.
Since you are dealing with rainwater runoff, you want to refer to Table 1106.3 "Size of Horizontal Storm Drainage Piping" from the International Plumbing Code along with any local amendments This code will allow you to use the maximum slope you have available at your site and this can reduce the required drain pipe size and cost. For example: Let's assume your pool deck area is 5 feet above and 100 ft from the street gutter. Allowing 1 ft for a drain grate and elbow under your deck, you have 4 ft of elevation left to use over the 100 ft run to the street; this is very close to 1/2 inch per ft slope. To determine the drain pipe size required, we need to know how large an area will be drained. Let's assume your deck and pool area is 50 ft by 75 ft which is 3,750 sq ft but you also have roof area of 1,250 sq ft (horizontal projection only) that also drains onto your deck, bringing the total area to be drained up to 5000 sq ft. The next step is to determine the "Maximum Probable Rainfall Rate" for your location. In the US this information is typically available from the National Weather Service. For example, the East Coast area including Philadelphia and New York City has a 1 in 100 years probability of having rain falling at about 3 inches per hour. Many areas in Florida have values 50% higher. With this data we can refer to Table 1106.3 and find the column for 3 inch per hour rainfall rate. Reading down the column we can see the areas that can be drained for various pipe sizes and slopes. At a low 1/8 inch per ft slope a 6 inch drain line would be required; at 1/4 inch per ft slope a 5 inch line (uncommon size) would be required and finally at 1/2 inch per ft slope a 4 inch drain line would be adequate. Note: If you used a commonly available drain line size of 3 inch, this will adequately drain only 1,096 sq ft when sloped at 1/8 inch per foot (1,546 sq ft when sloped at 1/4 inch per foot or 2,295 sq ft when sloped at 1/2 inch per foot.) During a moderately heavy rain exceeding only 1 inch per hour, this line will allow water to accumulate in the above example and flood the pool deck; perhaps backing up into the house.
Sand it down and paint it.
Gunite Swimming Pools are the best type of swimming pool out there, provided that the pool is correctly built they can be installed anywhere in the world without any damage being done to them. As far as servicing of the pool standard service applies e.i. brushing vacuuming chemically treating. And if the necessary care is taken a gunite can last you 20 + years.
Vinyl Liner pools also have there place in the swimming pool market place, they are typically cheaper and quicker to install but on the down side there isn't much customization you can do to them. And to replace a liner can run you anywhere between 3 to 5 thousand dollars.
That brings us to fiberglass AKA Bathtub in the ground ( that's all i can say about that.
First off, test the water going into the pool to determine its "native" pH, chlorine level (municipal water usually has trace amounts), its alkalinity (its resistance to swings in the pH), & its calcium hardness. pH/alkalinity is first. Get the pH balanced, then add chlorine - liquid bleach is an excellent shock treatment, also get some floater dispensers and plop some trichlor pucks or sticks in there. I recommend getting a Taylor test kit (pricey but critically accurate) for use once or twice a month, and a cheap little kit for daily use. I use borax (20 Mule Team at grocery store) for alkalinity issues, baking soda (also grocery store) for pH UP and muriatic acid (hardware stores) for pH down. Learning your waters native alk & pH is 3/4 the battle. Then just keep it chlorinated to kill the beasties. When you are adding new water or filling for the first time you should first add your metal out or metal preventer which ever is in your area to prevent staining,second adjust your alkalinity(sodium bicarbonate for up and acid for down) to between 80 120 ppm. Three adjust your(sodium carbonate up and acid down) PH 7.2-7.5 24 hours after this is done you can add your Chlorine 1.0 to 5.0 ppm 3.0 being ideal in a pool.Once a week use a non-chlorine shock to keep water sparkling.
purchase one from a reputable supplier
Dear Theresa, there are a lot of advantages for those who appreciate innovation and comfort. This kind of pools are a new technology mostly in steel and concrete structure with vinyl liner in different qualities. The liner has better behaviour with high temperature changes,the pool structure is auto-portable this means that a soil movement won't afect it, it's faster set up, the liner is easier to clean, the liner is easier and cheaper to repair and also replaceable (new pool! new design!), liner is more comfortable for the step, and you won't think in fixing ceramic tiles or painting the pool every year,... The selection of your pool should also take in consideration the right equipment for the volume of your pool (heart of the pool). Good luck! Xavier
Gunites are nice because of the "free-form" designs that can be generated. They are solid vessel structures made of a reinforced steel cage sprayed with high pressure gunite, then coated with plaster, or tile, or combination of both. They're great in hot wether areas such as Arizona, Texas and California.
However, as mentioned in the previous answer, todays vinyl liner pools are more agile when exposed to extreme weather fluctuations. Vinyl liner pools have developed a bad rap over the years due to poor materials, or craftmanship, of many kits in the early years (70's and early 80's). But, technology has made its mark on today's vinyl pool kits. You can get walls made of high-grade galvanized steel or thick, honey-combed polymer walls that are strong enough to handle the pressure of a Hummer rolling over them. Todays floors are usually made of vermiculite (an oatmeal-like aggregate) mixed with portland cement. Suggestion: opt for dual-track aluminum coping. The lower track for the liner to snap into, and the upper track made for optional fiber-optic lighting. Even if you don't want the lighting right away, you'll have the receiver for it pre-installed incase you want it in the future.
The above answer has some incorrect information in it. The Polymer, honey-combed, pool walls are NOT strong enough to withstand a Hummer driving over it. Polymer (structural foam) panels are about as strong as anything else made out of plastic.. that's what they are... plastic. If the above information is true, I'd love to see a video of it.
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