it does not run smoothly and not all plugs fire when supposed to
Addition to above:
No spark or intermittent spark, a problem that was fairly common back when distributors had vacuum advances was that one of the wires going to the pickup coil (pole piece) would break from the back and forth movement of the pickup as the vacuum advance would move it to control the timing, symptoms would be no start or that it would start and when you put a load on the engine and the vacuum dropped the vacuum advance would start to move the pickup coil, the broken wire would open the circuit and the spark would die.To check this problem was fairly simple by removing the cap & rotor and tugging lightly on the wires where they go into the pickup coil/pole piece, if one of the wires was broken you could see it and knew you had to replace the pickup coil which GM called a pole piece (magnetic pickup coil and pole piece are the same thing).
Bad coil? Bad distributor cap? Bad distributor rotor?
The distributor cap is important to the performance of the car's engine. Some symptoms of a bad distributor cap are stalling, backfiring, shaking, and a high pitched squealing noise.
Bad coil? Bad distributor rotor? Bad ignition pickup? Bad distributor cap?
I fixed the problem it was the air gap.
The ignition module that is in the distributor is probley bad.
It depends on which engine you have. The 2.2 has no distributor.
No input voltage to the coil or the coil is bad. Check the distributor for issues and the wires.
Some will run rough and not run at all.
The "crank" sensor is the pickup plate under the distributor cap.The "crank" sensor is the pickup plate under the distributor cap.
the pick up is inside the distributor
It is part of the distributor. You have to replace the distributor
It is inside the distributor and is more commonly known as a distributor pickup, HEI pickup, pickup coil, hall switch, or hall effect sensor. I hope that helps.