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What bra size would 370cc breast implants be on someone that was previously 34a?
Wiki User
∙ 13y ago
This size of implant would make the recepient approximately 2 cup sizes bigger.
Wiki User
∙ 13y ago
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How many cups are equal to 370cc?
That is 1.631 cups.
What is the top speed of a 370cc snowmobile?
about 65 or 70
How fast does a 370cc snowmobile go?
About 70 mph
How many micro liters are there in a volume of 370 cubic centimiters?
370cc equates to 3,700,000µl (microliters).
How to upgrade the turbo of Nissan 300zx?
The turbos can be upgraded, by replacing them. For this you need to pull out the engine.A better exhaust and intake will also increase the turbo performance.Downpipes can also be added to avoid turbulence on the exit of the exhaust giving it a better spool up time.Injectors need to be replaced and ECU needs to be remapped to give better fuel needs once you have more air going in. There are different size injectors, 555cc, 615cc, 740cc etc.Stock turbos (Garret AR .48) are good up to 16 psi. Injectors 370cc are good for up to 15 psi, but the ECU needs to be remapped to avoid detonation.
What exactly do you need to put a 300zx twin turbo engine into a 93 300zx convertible and how much does it cost to do it?
Things you need to do a twin turbo swap... - Complete engine that includes TT Engine Block, heads, pulleys, lower and upper intake plenum, exhaust manifolds, injectors of 370cc (stock) or higher (will require ecu to be chipped), coil packs, all other electrical censors and all hoses with top balance tube. -Wire harness for a non turbo motor since it will not have the HICAS system. -ECU programed for: Non Turbo engine, correct injector size, dual or single intake (option), 93 octane (prefered), A/T or M/T. -2 turbo chargers. Stock turbos are T25's capable of producing almost 400 HP with correct set up. -TT intake pipes, Side mount intercoolers (never ever get front mount, it will make your car run like crap and will never be a balanced engine, EVER) -TT Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) -Always get a new wire harness if it isn't new already (this will save you years of misfiring, come-and-go problems, and its just the smart thing to do) -Oil cooler, which will be mounted in front of the A/C fan. -TT Radiator. Always replace all coolant hose with silicone hose. This includes upper and lower radiator hose, and the 2 heater core hose at the back of the engine. -Exhaust system...This is a twin turbo engine so lose the biggest restrictions. If the engine is a JDM engine, you can hook up your non-turbo catalytic converter or get some non-turbo test/resonator pipes. The JDM down pipes will hook up perfectly with the non turbo test pipes, except with automatic transmission, it wont fit. But if your are doing an N/A to TT swap getting the Megan Racing Twin Turbo down/test pipes wont mean much to your wallet. Never buy Generic or none branded exhaust systems, they made really bad. -TT Transmission with TT clutch and flywheel. My recommendation is to replace what ever clutch is already it with a new clutch from Grip Force (not Center Force, they suck). They have a website and are on eBay. Great clutches for real cheap. They have a good stage 2 clutch kit. -Replace the N/A fuel pump with either a TT fuel pump (good for 700 HP) or a Walbro 255 (good for around 400 hp) -Fix any leaks before putting engine in car. -Eliminate the EGR system. Get rid of all the emissions stuff. They will just drag your car down, lower its potential, and drop your gas mileage significantly on the 300ZX. Some people believe that it will do the contrary, but this is the real deal. -Finally, get a 2-in-1 Boost controller/boost gauge. You will need it. All of this will usually run for about $4,000. This does not include labor cost. Anybody who knows what they are doing on the 300ZX engine will know that it is extremely easy to work on the car. A novice mechanic will glance at the engine bay and just think to himself "ahh crap". This is someone you don't want to go to. The labor on this project should never exceed over $1300. For those that know what they are going in this engine, it takes about 2 or 3 hours for the engine to come out and transmission to be dropped. Then another 2 or 3 hours to replace hoses, wireharness, and prepare pipings for the new engine to be dropped in. Another 3 to 5 hours to place the new engine in and connect all wires and hose properly in place and have a good running engine ready to drive out (assumming that the engine has no faults). For more info or details e-mail me at Dream300ZX@gmail.com
How do you do a 300ZX twin turbo swap?
I have written this down to the best of my knowledge. I have thrown several recommendations with reasons. I will try to be as detailed as possible. The way I recommend to go about everything is using a JDM Front Clip. Z1 Motorsport sells these front clips for the 300ZX. I also recommend Z1 as being the place to get all your parts from. They just know what they are doing on this car, plus they are the cheapest place. Z1 Motorsport or Concept Z Performance. Really what is required to do an NA > TT conversion using a "JDM Front Clip" is taking out your Engine, transmision, NA intake piping, raditator, and exhaust off. Also you will be using the JDM ECU that comes with the front clip. -Install the new TT intake piping first with the motor out. -Install the oil cooler in front of the A/C & Emergency fan. -Install the stock boost control solenoid next to the Fusible Link Box next to the Battery. This solenoid is what is connected witrh rubber hose to your internal wastegates on the turbos to keep a steady 9.5 psi stock boost on the turbochargers. If you would like to install an electric boost controller, this would be the perfect time to so do. I prefer the Greddy profec B spec II on the 300ZX because the unit fits perfectly on the center consel in the spot where the clock goes. Its the same fitment. The new JDM Engine comes with everything required such as waterpump, oil pump, intake plenum Prep the engine...by getting new O2 Sensors on the down pipes, remove and eliminate the EGR system (Z1 has a kit for that for like $15), and install a new Dedonation (Knock) Sensor if possible (Nissan brand ONLY)(if this ever goes bad after you have installed engine in, you are f**ked due to the location of this sensor (back of the engine under the lower intake plenum and connected to the engine block. Then move over your NA Intake Balance Tube (this is that black metal tube that sits on top of the Upper Itake Plenum with like 4 rubber hose that attach to it) over to the JDM TT engine in the same location. Reason for doing this is because the JDM Intake Balance tube is made differently to accomodate the Right Hand Steering, unless your plan on doing the right hand steering along with the TT Swap. This would be the perfect time upgrade on turbos or send your turbos our to get them bored out and fitted with larger wheels (basically making it a bigger turbo only in a small shell). Also you should always upgrade your injectors for 555cc or largers so you can boost up on your turbos and not be limited by the stock 370cc injectors that only allow you to boost up to 17 psi. And one last recommendation is to replace the wire harness with a new one because by now all the original 300ZX wire harnesses are looking really bad and need replacing. I am talking about the EFI Wire harness. Do this while the engine is out because once it goes it, you cant change it anymore. Even though you have a twin turbo engine in the car, you still need to get a Non turbo wire harness. This is because you wont have the HICAS System. Next, its time to drop in the new TT engine in and make a few modifications to it. The JDM engine fits perfectly into the engine bay as the NA. When doing an NA to TT conversion you will not be moving over the Hicas Rear Steering system. This is one thing that you dont transfer over. You will be keeping your NA Powersteering system along with the NA powersteering Belt hooked on the driving belts system. Next hook up all the wiring connectors in its proper spot and hook up the fuel system hoses (i recommend just replacing them all anyways, they're really cheap). Then install the radiator and then finish it with the TT intake pipes and all the air vacuum hose. One thing I forgot to mention is the intercoolers, but with the new TT pipes, you would have seen that anyways, they are conncected to the intake pipes. Next will be the transmission but, I always suggest that you replace the Rear Main Seal everytime the transmission is off (like $10). Next install the JDM Transmission onto the engine without missing any screws on the Bell Housing. Then connect the Starter on the transmission. I am making it sound easy, but it is a bit of work for 2 people. Next connect the Drive shaft onto the transmission. You could use the NA Drive Shaft, but I highly recomment that you take the stock 2 piece drive shaft and take it to some place where they specifically make driveshafts and have them make you a one piece drive shaft. The NA differencial has 4 Bolt that hooks up to the NA Drive shaft and the TT differencial has 6 bolts that the drive shaft would hook up to. So you will be keeping your NA Driveshaft with 4 bolts. A stock 2 piece drive shaft will break easily on the center U-joint on the driveshaft over and over again. This is why I suggest a one piece drive shaft, plus I think you are supposed to gain a bit of power out of it, I am not too convinced about it though. Hook up the Exhaust. The JDM Downpipes allow you to hook up the NA Testpipes on to it. The US TT Downpipes would normally not let you do that. SO you can keep whatever exhaust system you have the only thing you are getting rid of is the headers. Next get yourself a Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump and install it in your gas tank. To access this you just have to take off the little carpet section between the 2 rear quarter windows. With more boosting you will be doing, you will require more fuel delivery or rick blowing your engine. If you can get a Stock TT fuel pump that would be best for it will support up to 700 HP where the Walbro 255 will support around 450 to 500 HP max, still would be enough for a stock set up. Next fill up on some oil, I suggest conventional oil like 10w-30 or some cheap o'rielly oil or something, just to run the car for like 2 or 3 days to get the parts running and lubricated. After just 2 or 3 days change it to the better oil you will be driving with. My suggestions for the 300ZX is always full synthetic 0W-30 by Mobile1. If money is no object, use either Greddy Oil or Eneos Oil 0W-50 full synthetic. Fill up on all other fluids while your at it. Next Connect your JDM ECU and connect your battery. And with that you should be set and ready for a start up. As long as all the clamps have been tighten up well and everything has been connected to the right connectors you should have an easy start up. It may take a while for the fuel to flow through the longtime unused lines and stuff, but it should work fine. Good Lucks For more info or details please feel free to e-mail me at Dream300ZX@gmail.com
