The problem could be in the steering column. Sometimes the pins holding the wiring harness come loose and this stops the connection. Take the cover, from around the column, off. Four phillip head screws hold it together. The screws are located on the bottom of the cover. Pull the top cover off and check the harness. If the pins are loose, take a hammer and tap the Phillips screwdriver on the top of the pins until they tighten up. Hope this works.
try haveing the relay/solinoid checked. mostly i think you may need to replace the relay. the relay clicking usually is a sign its dieing.
Possible starter or starter solinoid? more info would help
ifs its a long loud clicking noise its the transmission solinoid pack perfectly normal this applies to a a604 transmission
signs of a bad starter solinoid should be a slight clicking and no-crank
1. Starter is frozen (bearings seized) 2. Poor contact at starter solinoid 3. Low or dead battery.
On the starter solinoid
There is a solinoid that actuates the lock mechanisim. Either you are not getting power to it due to faulty wiring or switch, or the solinoid is bad itself.
There are two, both inside the gearbox
A clicking sound when trying to start a car is almost always a low battery. The solinoid which engages with the ring gear isn't getting enough voltage to move it's gear. This causes a fairly rapid and regular clicking sound something like 6 or so per second. Attach a battery charger for 15 minutes or so or get someone to give you a jump. Then consider what the problem with the battery may be before you get stranded.
There are a number of reasons these don't work. TAke it to a garage. All the four wheel drive trucks that have the lever on the floor like the 94 have a solinoid that acctuates the front diff. There is an update for them that convert themt from an heat based solinoid to an actual electric solinoid. If you call the dealer and give vin he can tell you about the update.
Bad starter solinoid replace it and the starter!
transmission pressure control solinoid
where is the shift solinoid located on a 2005 chevy cobalt. and how do you change it
Physicall no difference.But inductor uses ac and solinoid uses dc.
remove grn from bat. remove bat cable from starter solinoid. remove brn wire from starter solinoid. remove two 3/8bolts from starter to block. tilt nose of starter up and lower. this is most common.
The solinoid is normally on the right hand side near the battery under the hood. Disconnect the neg battery cable. Remove the nut that holds on the positive battery cable and install it ont he new solinoid. Do the same on the oposite side that goes to the starter. This is then installed into the same holes that the old solinoid is attched to. This is normally a couple of small nuts and bolts that go through the fender well. Put the negative battey connection back on. Hope that this helps.
Isn't it attached to the solinoid mounted to the starter? vbd
puge solinoid is usually the problem.
idle solinoid is broken or the power wire is not powered or pluged in. common on those carbys
check the voltage of the battery i imagine you cleaned the battery posts and the connection at the starterant the ground strap if this is all fine the solinoid on the starter is likely the cause
I have a 85 FXWG, Dont know if the set up is the same but it should be close. There are two ways you can go about #1) Remove outer primary and the mounting bolts to the Solinoid then remove the starter, in where the starter bolted to the inner primary casing, there will be a gear that meshes with the gear on the end of the starter shaft. ( when the solinoid is pulled in) It is held in place with 1 or 2 Allen head bolts. (Can't Remember) Remove the Allen bolts and this will allow you to pull out the shaft (from the inside of the primary) that engages your starter to the Clutch. now the Solinoid has a fork that attaches to that shaft and it can be wriggle free as you pull on the shaft and pull out on solinoid at the same time. watch for shims when you pull the outer primary cover and replace them on the stub shaft when you put it back on. #2) Remove the outer primary cover and with care you can bend one side of the fork that pulls the shaft into the clutch, you will see what I am talking about this will allow you to pull the solinoid with out going thru the hassle of pulling the starter. Then when you put in the new solinoid just bend the fork back up enough that it will not fall out of place. The fork is not real easy to bend it will take some doing. Hope this helps
I've got the same problem with my 1998 Metro. I was sproadic for about 2 years, now it won't even click. I'm gessing it is the starter solinoid?????????????
Don't think there exists one. The power go from the key cylinder directly to the solinoid on the starter.
the idle solinoid may need changing, or its power source is not plugged in or working. If the solinoid is not powered the carby wont know where to idle, it will drive fine but wont idle when you pull up at lights ect.
dealer removed the instrument panel to get at the solinoid which controlled open/closing the door that controls hot/cold air coming thru it into the interior of car. actual cost of solinoid, $35 US. Labour, about $450 US.... rumor has it some models can access the solinoid thru the removed glove compartment opening, thus reducing the labour cost.. I have the LS, with all digital instrumentation display, maybe this increased my cost of the service? All is fine since replaced a couple of years back.