Sounds like there is resistance in the electrical circuit. Check the switch and all connections for heat damage (melted connectors). The blower motor itself may also be the culprit.
The blower motor is tired. It will eventually blow a fuse and/or burn out the blower motor speed resistor. Time to replace the blower motor. Also check connections for high resistance damage (melted connections).
Bad fan motor? overheating and seizing?
If the blower motor only works on high speed, which in your case is speed 5, it is a definite that the blower motor resistor needs to be replaced. When choosing all the other speeds the current travels through a certain resistor, which in turn slows down the speed of the blower motor. High speed is direct 12 volts to the blower motor. So when it works only on high speed there is a 99.9% chance that the blower motor resistor is shorted or blown and needs to be replaced I have a 99 grand am as well and I have heat but it only works on setting 5. I replaced the resistor last night and it was horrible(broken, melted, discolored) Put the new one in and still no heat on any setting but 5. I am going to replace the climate control panel to see if that is the issue in my car. If you have no heat you may want to consider adding antifreeze. Sometimes the grand am's have bad coolant sensors.
A treadmill slows down when stepped on because the added weight of a person causes more friction between the belt and the treadmill's motor, which requires more power to maintain the same speed.
Slows down the motion of an object or keep it from starting to move.
It slows it down, and causes MPG to drop.
Slows down the motion of an object or keep it from starting to move.
Look for a vacuum leak either under the hood or under the dash - sounds like it is starving for vacuum and blend door is closing
There are 3 most commonly used methods of starting single-phase AC induction motors: Shaded Pole: This method is commonly used on small AC induction motors, like might be found in an ice cream freezer or electric fan. It involves a physical object acting as a small coil which causes a separate starting magnetic field out of phase with the main field generated by the primary induction coil. This causes a torque to develop across the rotor shaft upon application of AC current which starts the motor turning. Once turning, the rotor rotates concurrent to the main coil's field and no longer needs the starting force, which actually lowers motor efficiency and slows rotation when the rotor gets up to speed. For this reason, the starting force is kept low to avoid excessive motor heating through loss of efficiency. Capacitor Start: This method is commonly used on larger AC induction motors, like might be found in an air-conditioner blower motor or compressor. In a Capacitor Start motor, a second coil offset somewhat from the main coil, is connected in series with a capacitor to cause a phase shift. This provides a starting torque for the rotor stronger than the shaded-pole motor and also more efficiently, but still interferes with overall motor efficiency and causes extra heating once the rotor is up to speed. "Split-phase" or Switch Phase: This method is commonly used on motors that require a great deal of starting torque, like many washing machines and some dryers. So-called "Split-phase" motors use a more powerful offset coil and capacitor combination that is turned on and off by a centrifugal switch controlled by the rotor speed. When the motor is stopped or turning slowly, the centrifugal switch engages the start winding and provides maximum torque for starting the motor. When the rotor speed increases, the start winding is disengaged by the centrifugal switch, and this leaves the motor spinning on the main coil only. This increases motor efficiency by leaving the start winding off during the motor run time and reduces motor heating.
Friction causes the heat.
Could be a bad wheel bearing front or rear.
Air resistance causes friction and slows an object.