Parasitic (or ignition key off) drain is the cumulative load produced by electrical devices, for example, emissions computers, clocks, security alarms, radio presets, etc., that operate continuously after the engine is stopped and the ignition key has been switched off. Normal parasitic loads are below 75 milliamps (.075 amps). When the parasitic load is greater than 75 milliamps (.075 amps), batteries will drain more quickly. Glove box, trunk, and under hood lights that do not automatically turn off when the door is closed or shorted diodes in alternators are the most common offenders. Cooling fans, power seat belt retractors, radios and dome lights left on, alarm systems, and electric car antennas have also caused batteries to drain overnight. Leaving your headlights on will generally discharge a fully charged car battery, with 90 minutes of Reserve Capacity (36 amp hours), within a couple of hours. It is highly recommended, especially if you are using a sealed wet "Maintenance Free" (Ca/Ca) battery, allow to thaw if frozen, fully recharge it in a well ventilated area with an external battery charger, remove the surface charge, and load tested both the battery and the charging system for latent damage from the deep discharge. You could have a damaged or bad battery. If the alternator is warm and the engine is cold, then check for a shorted diode in the alternator. Below are some methods that are used to test the parasitic load with the engine NOT running, under hood light disconnected, all accessories switched off, and the vehicle doors closed: * Connect a 12-volt bulb across the positive and negative battery terminals to test the bulb and the battery. If it glows brightly, then remove the negative battery cable and connect the bulb in series between the negative battery cable terminal clamp and the negative battery terminal. If the bulb continues to glow brightly, then start removing fuses or connections to the positive battery post one-at-a-time until the offending electrical component is identified by the bulb dimming. * A better approach is to use a DC ammeter, for example a Fluke 175, inserted in series with the negative battery cable terminal clamp and the negative battery terminal or a clamp-on DC ammeter, like a Fluke 336 or i410 around the negative battery cable. Starting with the highest scale, determine the current load. If the load is above 75 milliamps (.075 amps) after the initial surge, then start removing fuses or connections to the positive battery post one-at-a-time until the offending electrical component is identified by the parasitic load dropping to within 75 milliamps (.75 amps).
the alarm system for the radio is draining the batteries remove the radio fuse when you parl
Had the same problem. Bought a re-conditioned alternator, turned out it was bad. Usually if battery draining, it's alternator or battery or both.
A partial earth
Are the battery wires corroded? If they are, they may not be getting a good connection.
your alternator ain't charging your battery or a bad connection draining the battery
could be alternator or charging circuit or could be anything got to do with the battery when its draining out loose connection terminal
depending on the year I have had issues with a 1990 and a 1992 grand caravan problem was the light in the glove box the contact would turn the light on periodically draining battery
Could be an older battery that can't hold a charge any longer Could be loose or corroded battery cables not supplying a sufficient charge from alternator Could be a weak alternator not charging battery Could be excessive parasytic load drain to battery ( a fully charged battery should be able to hold a charge for 21 days of inactivity) Could be a hidden accessory left on draining battery (i.e. trunk light, glove box light, etc.) Could be a defective voltage regulator not opening on engine shut down draining battery.
It could be the battery. Or check the wires going from the battery to the fuse box.
The 1989 Chevy Cavalier could be either a 2.0L 4-cylinder or a 2.8L V-6.
I have a 1993 gmc safari and after getting my fuel pump installed. Something is draining the battery. What could be drainin the battery?
If a 1996 Chevrolet Cavalier will not start, it could very well be the fuel pump. It could also be the starter or battery.
The coin if conductive could short out the battery draining it of all its power. If the coin is no conductive it could act as an insulator breaking the flow of electricity.
could be the oxygen sensor. that's what it was on mine.
If coolant level is correct - could be a defective sensor
If I could answer this question, then I wouldn't be asking it. Now would I?
with a LOT of fabrication it could be done. Maybe... I have seen a newer cavalier with a caddy northstar V8 in it. There is a video of it running on youtube.
Best guess would be that you have a short to ground somewhere that is draining your battery.
most times ther is a short in the circut. maeanig that a wire in the circut that is supposed to be hot at all times, even with engine off, is connecting to ground(body or frame of car) and battery is constantly draining.
It could be a loose gas cap often times. Autozone gives free diagnostic checks. If it could be a sensor. Take off the negative cable from the battery and place it back on the battery it will reset the check engine light.
The fan relay could be bad or the fan motor could be bad.
Something is usually on that you don't know about like an alarm could be draining the battery. However, If its not starting you should check the starter though. It will make you think the battery is bone dead.
there is a short some where in the electrical system... or a bad battery.
Something is draining the battery. Check all lights. Glove box, trunk, etc. Also check the power window switch.
Try disconnecting the alternator, could be the diode pack