my recomendation is pull distributer cap and turn over the engine look to see that your rotor button is spinning, if its not spinning check you timing belt, but if it is spinning check on replacement of your coil pack and/or your entire distributer once all else fails...
My Timing belt is brand new and it is in perfect time...
THIS IS NOT AN ANSWER IT IS THE STORY BEHIND THE QUESTION
I bought the car after it had set for a year or so, put on new timing belt and water pump, car ran great for two days then suddenly when I hit 4500rpm my tach flip out and the car died. I checked for spark and got nothing. I double checked timingbelt, replaced the Crankshaft position sensor and the distributor.......I'm Lost
Have you tried resetting the Fuel Pump Cut Off switch in the left rear corner of your trunk? Is the "Fuel Cut-Off" lamp illumated on the dash when you try to start? This is a perplexing problem...seems like as the cars age and the distributors begin to wear down they send to much current to the immobilizer units in the cars(these trip the Fuel Cut-off Switch in the trunk). The excess current evidently erode or overheats the soldering on the chip board of the immobilizer unit, thus, triggering the fuel cut-off switch to activate.
All of that happening has eventually caused my probe to fail to start at all now...the fuel pump is not pumping and there is no spark being sent to the plugs...all a result of the immobilizer believing it has a problem.
The one other item it can be is a DOCUMENTED problem in Ford's Technical Service Bulletins where Ford admits there is a problem with corrosion on the wires for the immobilizer & fuel cut-off switch link.
I am in the middle of trying to fix mine. Good luck.
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Hey buddy Why don,t u check your fuses take a ohm meter Check the resistance of Primary Wire or secondary wire. If there is no current in the primary wire that means there is problem with your Iginition relay change your relay u don,t need to reset your fuel system just change your relay that u can find when you wil pop the hood it should be green color. I think in Canadian it would cost u 106 try that hit me back
Ok I would say do a paperclip diagnostic on it it will throw you codes to check my probe threw me the code for my crank shaft postioning sensor and also could be the distributor could have a bad ignition module on it if the 94 is the same as the 93 which i think it is moisture gets in from teperature changes hot to cold ect... use a paperclip from your ten pin to your ground pin on your diagnostic block located by your battery hope this could help ive been thru it all with mine and found myself turning in distributor after distributor on warranty to fix my problem im still looking to find out if there is anyway to prevent the moisture from getting into the distributor
distributor is likely bad
NO SPARK TO DISTRIBUTOR CAR WILL TURN OVER BUT WONT START 95 FORD PROBE
Bad Distributor
There are a few things that can cause this problem. The spark plugs could be bad, the distributor cap could be off, the spark plug cables or boots could be damaged.Ê
Several things could cause a no spark situation on an engine. A bad coil, bad spark plug or coil wire, bad spark plugs, or a bad distributor could all cause this.
there is no such thing as a 1998 Ford Probe. If there was, it would probably still be located next to the stock airbox. follow the spark plug wires.
There could be several things to cause no spark, but one I have ran into is the Ignition Control Module inside the distributor or the coil inside is bad. If your plug wires are good and your wiring to the distributor checks out, then it's either the coil or the ignition control module. Both are inside the distributor.
could be a bad coil but a distant second is a badly cracked distributor cap.
Could be the ignition coil, distributor, distributor cap & rotor or even spark plugs and wires.
Yes, a bad distributor can cause the engine to fail to run, the distributor (distributes) a spark to the spark plugs that ignite the air/fuel mixture, if it is malfunctioning there might be no spark at all, there may be spark at only a few spark plugs, or the output may be intermittently bad which can make troubleshooting difficult.
Could be spark in the motor, or the distributor and rotor need to be replaced.
A variety of things could cause a no spark condition. The distributor, the coil, the computer, etc. If you can get someone with a code reader out to read the computer codes that would narrow down your search.