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okay ! I have posted that it probly is the crank postioning sensor ford still makes things seem way more diffacult than they really are you cant find any specs for anything to make sure the part is bad or not one of the reason that ford is headed for the scrap pileIn my 94 Probe GT, I could get no spark out of my car, and found out that it was the distributor. Word of advise...spend the extra $ and let someone else put it on for you. I did mine myself twice, and both times, the seals came loose and water got in, causeing the motor to rev up and down while driving, and then cutting off at 2500 RPM. It was not good!

my recomendation is pull distributer cap and turn over the engine look to see that your rotor button is spinning, if its not spinning check you timing belt, but if it is spinning check on replacement of your coil pack and/or your entire distributer once all else fails...

My Timing belt is brand new and it is in perfect time...


I bought the car after it had set for a year or so, put on new timing belt and water pump, car ran great for two days then suddenly when I hit 4500rpm my tach flip out and the car died. I checked for spark and got nothing. I double checked timingbelt, replaced the Crankshaft position sensor and the distributor.......I'm Lost

Have you tried resetting the Fuel Pump Cut Off switch in the left rear corner of your trunk? Is the "Fuel Cut-Off" lamp illumated on the dash when you try to start? This is a perplexing problem...seems like as the cars age and the distributors begin to wear down they send to much current to the immobilizer units in the cars(these trip the Fuel Cut-off Switch in the trunk). The excess current evidently erode or overheats the soldering on the chip board of the immobilizer unit, thus, triggering the fuel cut-off switch to activate.

All of that happening has eventually caused my probe to fail to start at all now...the fuel pump is not pumping and there is no spark being sent to the plugs...all a result of the immobilizer believing it has a problem.

The one other item it can be is a DOCUMENTED problem in Ford's Technical Service Bulletins where Ford admits there is a problem with corrosion on the wires for the immobilizer & fuel cut-off switch link.

I am in the middle of trying to fix mine. Good luck.


Hey buddy Why don,t u check your fuses take a ohm meter Check the resistance of Primary Wire or secondary wire. If there is no current in the primary wire that means there is problem with your Iginition relay change your relay u don,t need to reset your fuel system just change your relay that u can find when you wil pop the hood it should be green color. I think in Canadian it would cost u 106 try that hit me back

Ok I would say do a paperclip diagnostic on it it will throw you codes to check my probe threw me the code for my crank shaft postioning sensor and also could be the distributor could have a bad ignition module on it if the 94 is the same as the 93 which i think it is moisture gets in from teperature changes hot to cold ect... use a paperclip from your ten pin to your ground pin on your diagnostic block located by your battery hope this could help ive been thru it all with mine and found myself turning in distributor after distributor on warranty to fix my problem im still looking to find out if there is anyway to prevent the moisture from getting into the distributor

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โˆ™ 2015-07-17 17:45:47
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Q: What could cause a 1994 Ford Probe GT that has a new distributor still have no spark?
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