The problem is typically in the driver's side master power window switch. In most cases it can be easily fixed by removing the switch, unclipping the switch in the middle to pull it apart and cleaning the contacts with alcohol.
1) Insert fine tipped screwdriver into the highest part of the switch and pry it away from where it is mounted. Pull the switch upwards and disconnect the 2 or 3 push-in connectors. They will come out easily once you smash in the connector tab on the top of each one.
2) Take the switch to a table to work on it. Upside-down, you will see 3-4 small squares with plastic clips on the inside of them. Insert the screwdriver between the upper and lower plasctic housing to separate the clips from one side, then the other. This will give you access to the inside of the switch. Most switches have springs and connectors that fall out, but this switch does not. It has a large rubber pad and operates more like a calculator by smashing down the rubber buttons to make contact.
3) Remove the rubber pad, making note of which direction it will go back on. If you put it back upside down, nothing will work. Take a paper towel or Q-tip and clean both sides of the connections thoroughly with alcohol, or another quick drying solvent. NOT and oil like WD-40. You will probably see a small amount of moisture and this is where the problem comes from.
4) Reverse this procedure and reinstall your switch and you should be back in business. I have done this in 3 different vehicles, and it worked every time. There is still a chance there is moisture in the switch of the door that the window rolls up or down on, so you may have to go a little further and remove the individual switch too, but not normally. Good Luck!
Wire expands when hot and contracts when cold. Dust makes this problem worse. Try spraying potentiometer cleaner... or electronic tuner cleaner (*** Not WD-40***) into the window controls on the drivers side. If you know how , or are mechanically inclined; pull the module out carefully and wiggle and clean the contacts from the under side.
This just happened to me this morning. I have a 1998 Altima. I was tempted to drive to the auto-body shop, but used my Blackberry and googled first. I had no idea what a potentiometer cleaner was. I ran in the house looking for compressed air, but didn't have any. I found a can of static guard and figured it was worth a shot. Sprayed the window controls and then jiggled the switch a bit. 5mins later I gave it a try and it worked like a charm.
Numerous things could cause the Nissan Altima to stall. One such thing is the idle control valve, also the exhaust system could cause the engine to stall.
A 2000 Nissan Altima is an interference engine which has very tight tolerance. A slight misalignment can cause the pistons and valves to slam into each other.
Check the ignition coil, or the fuel pump.
Your spark plugs.
Your throttle cable, needs to be adjusted.
my air is cold, and car does not overheat but the fan does not work
Check the transmission fluid on the 1995 Nissan Altima. Bad fluid can cause the transmission to shift harder on parts that are more worn.
A 1998 Nissan Altima uses 134a refrigerant. When charging the A/C system the correct pressure should always be used. An undercharged system will not cool properly and an overcharged system can cause the lines to fail.
alternator or bad wires
A bad crankshaft in a 96 Altima could cause the engine not to start. Depending on the crank damage, the engine could start but not run properly.
A faulty thermostat might cause the temp gauge on the 2000 Nissan Altima to raise to hot when the car is not overheating. A faulty thermostat can cause the gauge to move up and down and might even turn the fan on.
YES it does. It should be close to intake.
It is common to have a knocking or clunking noise of a 99 Nissan Altima, even after the struts have been replaced. This may be due to worn ball joints. It is best to replace the ball joints, too.
something wrong on the engine get it chek for any codes
the valve cover gasket is bad, or the valve cover is loose
MAF or a bad spark plug, dirty fuel filters ... maybe needs a tune up
The pressure is much less outside the plane and opening the window would cause a rapid movement from high pressure inside to low pressure outside and suck things out of the plane window.
The rubber seal is probably missing or bad. It should be replaced.
There are pages of things that will turn the check engine light on. You need to have it checked for codes.
The AT check signal light means that there is something is wrong with the transmission. A slipping transmission can be the cause of this.
Put the key in and lock/unlock the doors. and/or In the ignition and turn on. I personally like the old Nissan alarms cause they don't usually go off unless they need to.
they were destoryed cause they saw u face thays how
Try replacing the turn signal flasher sometimes a near defective one with cycle
Crank but not start and run, possible. Not to crank, start or run, no. No lights or horn, no.