Since you had to unplug the wire connector, there is most likely damage to the connector. Check it carefully.
If it is a push on type of wire connector you should be able to use a small bladed screwdriver that fits into the slot.
They can as they will support the wire into the box. The deciding factor should be the cost. A BX connector costs about four times the price of a romex connector. Also to keep in mind is that most junction boxes these days have their own built in clamps.
it depends on wether you are wireing computer to computer, computer to hub or switch, or computer to a patch panel.
The NEMA 6-20R is a 2 pole 3 wire grounding receptacle that is rated for 250 volts. It is not meant to have a neutral wire connected to it. The receptacle is designed to have 240 volts connected to it.
it is behind the black cover on the fire wall passenger side top it is a one wire connector protruding throught the wiring harness and taped to it. it has one wire tan with black tracer. hope this helps
you can pull the two wire connector on the front of the master cylinder. this will dsable the cruise control. there is also a recall (fire hazard) on that connector as well.
Check the crankshaft position wire connector and wire.
wire
I had this problem on my 1998 Suzuki Esteem and it was the connector under the dash near the steering wheel. The wire going to the brake light was bad inside the connector. I had to tear it apart and fix the connector right where the wire was inserted into the connector, it had turned brown and mostly melted. I repaired the wire going into the connector and all is back to normal working operation.
Bad wire or connector Loose or corroded Replace connector
High Heat Porcelain Wire Connectors are very safe.
The wire connector has a clip on the side of it, follow it from the wire side onto the unit, it will end just on the sensor side, lift it up slightly while pulling the wire connector back.
Yes, BUT the degree of concern can vary. IF the "cooked" wire insulation condition exist "all along" the wire as far as you can trace it, then that suggests that the entire circuit was was exposed to overcurrent which requires replacement of the entire cooked wire. If, on the other hand, the cooked insulation is only within in inch or less of the connector, that suggests that there was excessively high resistance in the connection of the wire to the crimped connector inside the connector plug, and requires replacement of the plugs [both the male and female]. This type of failure [high resistance] is usually the result of either a bad crimp on the wire terminal connector, or corrosion at the interface of the contacts, which creates damaging heat, which causes more corrosion. This condition can progress until the heat destroys the wire, connector blades, the connector body, and could possibly result in a fire. Depending on the amount of damage and cause, it may be necessary to replace the entire connector, and/or reinsulate the moderately damaged wire[s] with heat shrink tubing or electrician's tape, or even replacement of the entire wiring harness. Good luck. j3h
Fire wire was developed by Apple company.
Underneath the seat (remove 4 bolts) you will find a silver box. This is your controller. Coming out of the controller are several wires. Look for a blue wire with a connector. The blue wire attached to the connector has another wire, (mine was black, others are blue) that leads right back into the controller. Disconnect this wire at the connector. Voila.
Assuming you mean you have coaxial cable, there is a small center wire in a coaxial cable that should protrude slightly beyond the screw on part. Carefully stick the center wire into the center connector on the female connector, then turning in a clockwise direction, screw on the outer connector until finger tight. The center wire tends to bend over and will not work this way. It must be straight and not touch the other part of the connector. This is sometimes a PUSH ON connector but it is a poor connector.