Ford Expedition XLT

What is involved with a 2004 Ford Expedition tune up?

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2008-08-29 03:00:59

I have a 1998 Ford Expedition XLT with a (4.6L). I recently

change plugs & wires. My truck only has 2 coil packs.... The

5.4L have 8 coil packs... One on each plug... It took me 4 hours to

do... It's not fun but its wealth the satisfaction you get from a

well don't job and the way it will run... Here is an article I

found on line...

-------------------------------------------------------- How to

Change Spark Plugs on 4.6 & 5.4 Liter By Dave West I've

replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L with plug wires

is similar) and once you've done a set they really are not as bad

as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, you don't have

to remove the fuel rails. The Coil on Plug (COP) assemblies will

come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece of seat foam and

put it on top of the radiator support to the engine to allow me to

lay on it without hurting my tummy. It makes the job way less

painful. Start by removing the cover over the throttle body (the

black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There are three 10mm

head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intake tube from

the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosen the hose

clamps at either end of it; disconnect the connector on the AT

(about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out the small

hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttle body. Next

remove the brace from the power steering reservoir to thermostat

housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws that hold it on.

Now you should be able to see the COPs. To remove the COPs you can

use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket, extension and

ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuel injectors to the

side it will give you more room to work with the COPs. Unplug the

connector on each COP by pressing the tab in and pulling on the

connector. After you're done that just twist and pull the COPs out.

A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4 on the passenger's

side are a bit hard to get at but with some patience they will come

out. After you've removed the COPs take a blow gun and blow out the

spark plug holes. Don't be surprised if there is rust and junk in

them. Next you can actually remove the plugs. Use a combination of

extensions, swivels (universal joints), sockets and ratchets to get

at them. Whatever works best for you is good. On the harder ones to

get at I usually use a socket with a 4" extension, then a swivel,

then a long extension, then the ratchet. The plugs are way down in

the hole which is why I use the extension then the swivel. The

swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall. Set the gap on the

new plugs to whatever it says on your emissions decal on the

radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a small amount of

anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You can use a

piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug to get

it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in their holes.

If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with the hose take

a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads are no fun! The

plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is just hand tight

with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! The threads in the

aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. After that just put

everything back together in reverse order. Apply some dielectric

grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them. I've done

enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately 45

minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takes a

few hours.


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