an electrician. you may have to upgrade your service if not you will need an additional box to accomodate the new breaker Assuming you meet local code and license requirements, and know how to shut things off while you're working: The full circuit panel may be a service panel or a sub-panel with main lugs only (no main disconnect). If it's a sub-panel you need to find the breaker that feeds it from the service panel (if any) to make sure it has enough ampacity to run your 220 appliance on top of whatever is there already. Assuming the breaker and feeder conductors will support the additional load, you can add another subpanel (or replace the existing subpanel with a larger one). If not, you can wire a completely new feeder from the service panel to a new subpanel (or just a 220 disconnect/fuse for your new appliance). If the wiring is old, the minimum disturbance to the existing wiring is recommended: put in a new circuit from the service panel. Some subpanels include extra main lug terminals for feeding other subpanels. Otherwise you can either add another tap to the main lugs and run them to the new subpanel, or else replace two of the existing breakers with a 2-pole breaker that feeds the new subpanel. Put the new 220 circuit into the new panel along with the two old circuits removed from the old full panel to make room for the subfeed breakers.
To hook up a 120 volts outlet, use a new outlet that is a protected type. It must be GFCI or be wired into a GFCI-protected circuit in an unfinished basement, bathroom, or garage that has damp areas.
Depends on what you are asking about. I can tell you that all garage outlets must be protected by a GFCI circuit. You can install as many or as little as you want as long as there is at least 1 outlet on each wall. Any freezer or refrigerator must be on a dedicated circuit. There must be a light switch by the doorway mounted 48" to the top of the switch box. If you have 2 entrances into the garage then install a 3 way light switch so the lights can be turned on/off at both locations. Outlets cannot me mounted higher than 48" above the floor. I would install the outlets on 1 circuit and the lights on another circuit unless you only have a couple of lights. Use AWG #12 wire for the garage protected by a 20 amp breaker. If the garage is detached from the house then you need a disconnect in the garage. Any 240 volt outlet must be on a dedicated circuit protected by the proper breaker and correct size wire needed for the device.
There isn't currently a 40A outlet made for the USA market because it doesn't match the available branch circuit wiring current carrying capacity limits in the National Electrical code. The current carrying capacity jumps from 30A for a 10AWG copper circuit to 50A for 8AWG copper circuit. The available outlets reflect this.
Ground Fault Circuit Interupter is used where the electric circuit needs to be instantly interrupted...like in the bathroom where an appliance might fall in the water, or an exterior outlet that might get wet in the rain...to prevent electric shock.
Yes, a space heater can be plugged into any outlet. Depending on what else is drawing current on the circuit will govern whether the circuit will trip or not. If the heater is plugged in and the circuit does not trip it can be left plugged as long as it is needed. If the heater trips after a few seconds, then try another outlet.
In parallel circuit
A dedicated wall outlet is the only one on the circuit.
Outlets are part of a "branch" circuit.
It is a point in an electrical circuit where external devices can be plugged into. This in turn will supply the device with the appropriate voltage needed to operate the device.
If the 220V circuit is dedicated, is to derate the circuit to a dedicated 110V outlet. Replace the 220V breaker with a 110V breaker and install a 110V outlet in place of the 220V outlet. If the original circuit was 20A or greater go with a 20A breaker and a 20A outlet as Airconditioners are fairly large loads. Do not exceed the current rating of the old circuit as that is all the current the existing wiring can handle.
The only determining factor is the size of the circuit breaker that you will be using. If the garage circuit will be protected with a 15 Amp breaker, you may use a 14 AWG wire. If the circuit will be protected with a 20 amp breaker, you must use a 12 AWG wire. Note too that garage outlets should be protected with a GFCI breaker or outlet. If you have any concerns regarding your ability to adequately design and install the garage outlets, please, for your own safety, contact a local electrician.
Outlet malls that are available in Boston range from Cape Cod to Maine Kittery Outlets, or there is even Bourne Outlet Center, if you are looking for a variety of available choices.
You can replace a 15A outlet with a 20A outlet. However you need a circuit protected by a 20A breaker or fuse and 12 AWG wire to run 20A through the circuit.
At the circuit beaker
The answer to your question is, yes, many! But really, it depend on where you're living. You can find a Garage Clothing Outlet in Dixie Outlet Mall, if you are looking for a location near Toronto,Canada. Some other Canadian outlet locations are: Marche Centre (in Montreal). To find a location near you, go to the Garage Clothing website and you will find a store locator. Simply type in your city or state/province and the pink-colored star are locations that are outlets and the grey-colored stars are locations that are regular garage store.
A 120 V outlet is the standard residential and commercial electrical outlet for North America. When additional electrical power is needed, other outlet options are available, but typically, one or more duplex (meaning double, or two outlets) receptacle is installed in every residential and commercial room.
If you have an electrical outlet not working and you have an idea what you are doing, you set out to repair it. First, you check the circuit breaker for a thrown circuit breaker. If that is not the case, you get a volt meter. When you have a volt meter, you throw the circuit breaker to that outlet. Then you take a screwdriver and you remove the outlet but keep the wires attached. You make sure the wires are not touching anything. You go back to the circuit breaker panel. You turn on the electricity. Then you test the wires with your voltmeter. If it shows they have electricity, you know the problem is the outlet. If not, you have a different problem. You go back to the panel and turn off the circuit breaker. You put the outlet back in. If the problem was the outlet you buy a new outlet. In the United States, a number of hardware and electrical supply stores sell them. You go back. You turn off the circuit breaker. You remove the outlet from the wall. You notice where the wires are. The new outlet also comes with an explanation of how to attach the wires. You attach them and put the outlet back in the wall. If the problem was not the outlet, you call an electrician. While an electrician will cost money, a burned down house will cost more money.
Bathrooms, kitchens, garage and outside outlets are typically put on a GFI type breaker. Some electricians use a central GFI breaker that is inside the breaker panel, others use a GFI outlet at one location then "daisy-chain" several outlets to that circuit. Either is acceptable.
Every outlet in your house, and everything in your house that's plugged into an outlet, is in parallel.
no!.... not practically but theoritically.....
Circuit breaker or GFCI outlet with local reset button.
No, the circuit should not be energized when checking the resistance of a circuit.
A basic electrical circuit needs a voltage supply (battery or household outlet), wiring to carry electrons to and from the voltage supply to the load, and a load (motor, light, heat element, stereo, blender, whatever).
Simply purchase a power inverter. These are available at any electronics outlet, ie best buy, circuit city, walmart...