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Just disassembled the master cylinder on my Mazda B2000. It had rusty looking gunk in it and had formed rusty brown deposits on the cylinder wall. It was working in spite of this until the rubber of the primary cup split. Rebuilt the slave cylinder not long ago and it was gunked up worse than the master cylinder. Had to remove some crusty deposits to get the piston and cups out of the cylinder.
Twice as much
Brake master cylinder repair is where someone or some body fixes the master cylinder on your brakes. It is the main line to your brake apparatus. Also the master cylinder is the container for the fluid and the piston, forming part of a device such as a hydraulic brake or clutch.
Which piston? what's wrong. If it's a piston in the engine, you'll need a major rebuild. If it's a master cylinder or wheel cylinder piston, just replace the cylinder, it's not worth the trouble.
9.4247 cubic inches
-1
By honing the cylinder you establish a shallow criss-cross pattern which helps with keeping the cylinder and piston lubricated as the oil film will cling better to the cylinder walls. It also remove/smoothen the groove often left where the piston change direction.
The master clutch cylinder is attached to the clutch pedal. When one depresses the pedal hydraulic fluid is forced from the master cylinder through the hard line to the slave cylinder. The piston in the slave cylinder is driven against the clutch linkage thereby releasing the clutch.
the master cylinder is designed so that when the brakes are applied, the pistons (primary and secondary) closes the compensating port and opens intake port. this allows brake pressure to be formed in brake system to apply brakes and allows brake fluid to fill behind pistons (through intake ports) when you release the brakes, the primary and secondary piston springs push their pistons (inside the master cylinder) to its rest position, faster than fluid can fill the chambers. this causes the brake fluid to flow past the piston cups (this happens when the rubber cup flexes foward) as the pistons pass the compensating port, brake fluid is allowed to return to the master cylinder reservoir. the intake and compensating ports act as a breather for the master cylinder. hope this answers your queston :)
its either,AActivate the secondary piston if primary pressure is lostB.Equalize pressure between the primary and secondary circuitsC.Allow for the normal expansion and contraction of brake fluid due to temperature changesD.Assist in the rapid return of the brake pedal when it is released
Before installing the master cylinder you do need to bench bleed it. Some brake master cylinders come with a bleeding kit to make bench bleeding the master cylinder easier, purchase a bench bleeding kit if yours did not come with one. The master cylinder bench bleeding kit consists of adapter fittings that screw into the master cylinder and tubes that attach to the fittings of the master cylinder. Place the master cylinder in a vise and attach the brake master cylinder bleeding kit routing the tubes into the master cylinder reservoir. While keeping the tubes submerged in brake fluid of ther reservoir, push the master cylinder piston in repeatedly using a screwdriver. You will see air traveling through the tubes into the reservoir by keeping the tubes in the fluid you are preventing air from re-entering the master cylinder when the piston returns. When there is no more air traveling through the tubes the master cylinder is ready to be installed. DenLorsTools.com has a related tech article that goes into more detail, the link is in the left column. See the Related Links for "DenLors - Master Cylinder Bench Bleeding" to the bottom for the answer.
If you are wanting to colaspe the piston so you can fit new pads in the caliper, first open the master cylinder, then use a "c" clamp or "c" clamp vise grips to slowly push the piston back enough to place the pads in and then fit caliper over your rotor.Keep in mind there may be a mess at the master cylinder.