It most likely will have to come out to be repaired, if so you may as well replace it. You`re best bet would be to have a radiator repair shop look at it.
Regardless if the hole can be repaired or bypassed, it is not a 'do it yourself' job. The proper assessment of the necessary repair method should be made 'hands on' by an a/c tech you trust.
You should clean both the evaporator and the condenser. To the clean the evaporator: remove the foil wrapped insulator, behind that remove the screws from the access plate, clean entire side of evaporator and the tray beneath with a stiff brush, pour one teaspoon of blean into weep hole in the tray, replace equipment. To clean the condenser: clean condenser with commercial coil cleanser, clean fins with a soft brush carefully, check pad on which the condenser rests to make sure it is level.
Maybe the coil pack don't know what hole you are talking about
if you open up the hood and look at the engine, you will see a little blue cap, unscrew that and that is where you will attach the hose to charge the system. if i were you i would have your mechanic or a friend who has done this before do it, because i tried doing it and ended up blowing a hole in my condenser coil.
chances are you have a cracked heater coil
Small best describes a worm hole.
get a heli-coil the right size and rethread the hole make sure u use grease on the heli-coil rethreader so u dont get and threds inside engine the use the insert and lock tight
Yes, the AC fluid leaked out from the condenser coil. The leak occurs from the point of contact behind one of the screws that holds the bracket on the condenser coil. This should never have happened. The car has only 43,000 miles on it. Normal road vibration may have worn a hole on the coil where the screw/bracket is (one of a few brackets that holds the unit in place). You can easily see the drips from that point if you look under the front of the car, between the center and a little left of the driver's side. Anyone else have this problem? The dealer will not assist in paying for the repair. Any suggestions?
When copper is used as a wire to build a coil with a lot of whorls and a piece of iron is inserted in the hole of the coil this is called an electromagnetic device since that a voltage is applied in the coil, thus generating an electromagnetic power which is similar to that natural magnetic iron.
You're essentially trying to calculate the diameter of a cylinder with a hole in the middle. There are two formulas for volume which you need. Volume= Pi * r2 * h (where Pi=3.142, r = radius of the coil, h = width of the coil) Volume= Weight/Density Since both these formula equal Volume: Weight/Density= Pi * r2 * h Since the weight you have is for a cylinder with a hole in it, you need to calculate the volume of the whole cylinder (without the hole) and subtract the volume of the hole. So for a steel coil Weight/Density = (Pi * rc2 * h)-(Pi * rh2 * h) where rc= the radius of the coil and rh = the radius of the hole (Radius=diameter/2) you're trying to calculate the radius of the coil, so rearrange the formula to get: ((Weight/Density)/Pi*h) + rh2 = rc2 The diameter of the coil = 2 *rc NOTE:- It's important to keep your units of measure consistent throughout the calculation. Density is generally represented by kilograms per cubic metre (kg/m3) - for us metric users ;-) Therefore keep your coil weight in kgs and your radius / width measures in metres.
I assume you are talking about the ignition coil that is fastened to the top of the spark plug, and not sort of thread repair coil kit, like a Heli-coil, that has been used to repair the spark plug threads down in the cylinder head. To remove an ignition coil on a 5.4 liter, I clear whatever might be in the way of gaining access to the top of the coil, like heater hoses. On the very top of the coil there is a 7mm (9/32ths inch) bolt holding the coil down. Remove that bolt, and use a twisting motion to remve the coil up and out of the spark plug hole. Sometimes the coil boot will seize to the plug, and stay in the hole, while the coil assembly comes apart. In that case, use a pair of needle nose pliers to grab hold of the top of the rubber coil boot, and use a twisting motion to break it free from the plug. The boot can be placed back over the coil spring with no problem. If you rip the boot, new boots are available without purchasing the whole coil assembly at the dealer inexpensively.
I owned a Porsche 944 Turbo, had a large hole in the top of the radiator. Look into a product called Waterweld, sold at local hardware stores, automotive, etc. I drove the car on 500 mile trips, no problems