Ah the old Fiberglass wall concrete bottom redo. Here you have two surfaces to deal with plus an expansion joint! That�s what I love about these pools there is 3 times the work and if you don't get the expansion joint right it will leak and you will have to drain the pool and pull out all the joint and start over again. So I recommend you hire a professional to do the job that way you get a warranty and someone else has to fix the goof. But if you are a gluten for punishment here are some basic steps: 1. Drain the pool. IF YOU ARE IN A HIGH WATER TABLE AREA MAKE SURE THE HYDROSTATIC RELIEF VALVE IS WORKING PROPERLY OR THE POOL MAY FLOAT OUT OF THE GROUND. The pool will have to remain dry during this process so you will have to have a pump going on the main drain sump to keep water out of the pool. 2.The walls can either be painted or re gel coated. Re gel coating is expensive and you will want to hire a professional to do this job. If you paint find a swimming pool paint that can be used on fiberglass. I would recommend an epoxy type paint because this will last the longest of all paints. Kelly Technical Coatings makes a paint called Zeron, this is a one-coat paint, but you will need to prep the surface and apply a primer. Follow the manufactures recommendations to apply this product. If your steps are made of fiberglass and you are painting I recommend the addition of a product called Shark Bite to make the surface non-slip. You should be able to find Shark Bite at a paint store. 3. The concrete floor can be plastered (very expensive, and get a professional to do this as well) or painted with the same paint you paint the walls with Zeron. Follow the manufactures recommendations to apply this product. 4. The last item is the expansion joint between the floor and the wall. Dig out all the old stuff and then put filler in as needed then re-caulk. I recommend Kelly Technical Coatings Permaseal (this product is designed to be used in the pool.) You may want to prep the joint before you paint the floor and wall then finish the joint when you are done with the floor and wall. If you do everything for the joint last you may chip the newly painted surface. Now that you have seen everything rethink the idea of hiring someone to do the job, mainly because the job is very involved and if not done properly can become a huge nightmare.
Steel walls are currently the lowest quality wall for a swimming pool, with the exception of Cyprus wood (if still available). Concrete (not gunite) is superior to any other wall, but a pool with concrete walls generally also has a concrete bottom. In other words, it is a concrete swimming pool. The most popular wall today for vinyl liner pools is fiberglass and, with the possible exception of concrete, is the best possible choice.
The experts at Advanced Pool Coatings have been installing fiberglass coatings over vinyl liner pools for over 30 years. You can read more at: http://www.advancedpoolcoatings.com.
No!!! Under no circumstances should you drain a fiberglass in-ground pool. Unlike the standard in-ground pool, the fiberglass pool base is unreinforced concrete or other hard surface material that was applied directly to the soil in a thin layer. It is only there to allow the fiberglass to be sprayed on and form a hard shell. The weight of the water is what holds the fiberglass in place. If you drain the pool without refilling it immediately, you will allow external ground pressures and/or ground water to buckle the sides or bottom and you will have the fiberglass completely redone.
No. An older (possibly better) type of Fiberglass pool was constructed in this manner, with a concrete/Gunnite/Marcite trowled bottom and Fiberglass panels at the side of the pool. Panels are caulked together along vertical joints. Actually not a bad deal, but caulked joints must be maintained. Once the concrete starts showing through at the bottom of the pool, its time to drain and resurface. Bottom of pool should be acid washed every 3-5 years to keep it sparkling and remove mold, mildew, stains. If bottom surface is chipping off, its getting close to time to resurface bottom of pool. Bottom is treated just like any concrete/gunite/Marcite pool surface. Sides are simply brushed, caulked in timely manner.
For most fiberglass swimming pools, it means that the pool is at least eighteen years old and is in need of new gel coat. All things fiberglass have a finish coat of gel coat. Because swimming pools must contend with harsh chemicals, the swimming pool gel coat does not last forever. The longevity of the gel coat depends upon two factors: 1) the pool manufacturer, and 2) proper maintenance. There is a huge difference between manufacturers. Gel coat replacement ranges from 27 years at the top, to as low as 4 years, or less, at the bottom of the list. But the average for most fiberglass swimming pools is around 20 years. Nevertheless, chalking always means that the nonporous gel coat has become porous and needs to be replaced with new swimming pool gel coat as soon as possible.
Attach your bottom plate 1st then attach studs to the bottom plate. The bottom plate can be fastened by using concrete nails or concrete anchor bolts.
Under no condition do fiberglass pools have "ripples" on the bottom after they are installed. Of course, the pool could have been damaged in some way, then improperly repaired, before or after it was installed.
You're half way there already. Add a 4" cement/fiber-mesh bottom. Let it cure per instructions, then fiberglass it using vinyl ester resin and one ounce Owens Corning chopped strand mat. Sand the fiberglass walls, then apply two new coats of swimming pool gel coat to the entire pool. Every 15 years thereafter, sand and replace the gel coat on the entire pool.