You stated 30 Watts - that is the power handled. What else could it be?
the basic operation of 3watt 8ohm speaker
its a 6ohm sub in the stock location. if you are going to replace it you will need to purchase a good amp. the stock amp does not have adequate power to power any other sub. 10" Kicker comp subs make a great replacement, and get an amp that is half the RMS power input of the sub. make shure that you are reading the AMPs RMS power output.
the electrical impedance/resistance will not match. Home speakers are 8ohm and 6X9 car speakers are 4 ohm the speaker would work, but would not last long if played at high volume.
Ohms is a measurement of resistance between the amp and speakers. Most home audio is 8 ohm, if you run 4 or 6 ohm speakers you cut resistance down and get more power out of the amp. Say your stereo is 100X2 @ 8ohm, if you use 4 ohm speakers you should get 50% more power BUT the amp is working twice as hard and can burn up.
I amsume you are planing to run them on the 70 volt low watt setting? I am working hooking up 26 of them but I plan to run them on the the full power 8ohm setting so it will take some power to run that many..I plan to use 3 Peavey CS 800's & one QSC 1450 to run them.If you plan to use low power 70 volt then you wouldn't need but maybe one amp with about 300-400 watts a channel would most likely be ok.I think a qsc 1450 would run 20 on the 15 watt low power setting...
yes you can you will have to wire up the speakers in parallel because with 8ohm it gives too much resistance and the amp will produce unwanted sound i.e. low volume.
Only if your amplifier is capable of driving a 4 ohm speaker. Some have a switch on the back to select 4 or 8ohm speakers. Details should either be printed some where on the back of the amp or the instruction manual
At that kind of audio power level, it's probably not a good idea to work your amp intoa 2 to 1 mismatch. The possible consequences are: > heating the speaker cables, >lousy fidelity out of the speakers, and distortion on peaks, > getting a lot less powerout of the speakers than you expect, > damaging the power output stage of the ampif it's solid-state (transistor) and doesn't have protection against a mismatched load.Technically, you could connect two identical 8-ohm speakers in parallel to the same4-ohm output connection on the amp, and all the hardware would be happy with that.But that leaves nothing on the output to the other channel.
Your question doesn't fully make sense. Let me see if I can answer part of it. If your amp puts out 220 watts, the speakers should be rated for at least 220w, or they may be destroyed if you turn the amp all the way up. Watts are a measurement of power, in the case of speakers they are rated for how much power (watts) they can handle. Ohms is a different thing altogether. Ohms are a measurement of resistance to electrical flow. Amps are usually rated to work with certain impedance level speakers (4 ohm, 8ohm, 16ohm, etc.) the lower the ohms, the harder the amp works. I know it seems backwards but it isn't. each amp is different so you would have to read the amp's spec sheet to see what they reccomend. I have no idea what you are asking for with the "12 DC" thing.
4 Ohm subs wired in series gives an impedance of 8 Ohms. 2 4 Ohm subs wired in series, wired with an 8 Ohm sub in parallel gives you a final impedance of 4 Ohms. Speakers wired in series raise impedance, speakers wired in parallel lower impedance.
That will depend on the subs power rating, and how they're wired. Since I don't know which model subs you have, I can only give you an example and not a definite answer. Let's assume that your subs are rated at 100W RMS @ 4 ohms. If you hook them up in series, you will then need an amp capable of delivering a minimum of 200W RMS @ 8 ohms. (more would be better, say 250W @ 8 ohms) If you run those same two subs in parallel, you will then need an amp capable of delivering a minimum of 200W RMS @ 2 ohms. (again 250W would be better) Hope this helps! The wattage of the speakers MUST be more than the amp. Otherwise you can potentially blow the speakers. The impedance of the speaker MUST match or be more than the amp Otherwise you can potentially blow the speakers. Ideally you want more than enough power in amp and speakers than your highest listening volume. An over driven amp introduces distortion. If speakers are wired in series then there is more resistance you half the wattage but double the impedance. So 2x100w 4ohm speakers in series are 100w at 8ohm. If the speakers are wired in parallel then there is less resistance you get double wattage but half the impedance. 2x100w 4ohm speakers are now 200w into 2ohm Most car amps are 4ohm (home hifi usually 4 or 8 ohm) therefore to add 2 10" subs you would need 2x 8ohm and wire them in parallel to half the impedance to 4ohm. Many car sub woofers are dual 4ohm voice coil. This means you can wire a single speaker unit as 2ohm, 4ohm or 8ohm and this then means you can run sets in parallel or series as you see fit. heathcnc here again: I made the assumption of car audio and didn't consider the home audio/theatre possibility. I apologize. I completely agree with these two statements as applied to a home audio/theatre situation. "The wattage of the speakers MUST be more than the amp. Otherwise you can potentially blow the speakers." "The impedance of the speaker MUST match or be more than the amp Otherwise you can potentially blow the speakers." However in car audio, the amplifiers are of a different class and are far more flexible and user-configurable. This is why I always recommend running an amp that is more powerful than the speaker it is driving. That way you can set that amps gain lower than full power(an option unavailable to the user on home equipment). When configured correctly like this there is very little chance of harming your speakers.
It depends on the application. If you have an amp that is stable in 8 ohms per channel, then 8 ohm speakers will work best. However, if you wanted multiple speakers on that channel you could use two 16 ohm speakers.