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What is the procedure for fitting a zexel ip to a 6he1 Isuzu engine?
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Stock gears for a 2000 Chevy S-10?
on my 2000 s10 ls v6 with an auto i have a 3:42 rear end on a 4 cyl version its a 4:10 i dont know about the extreme versions but i know some had a zexel torsion limited slip rear end
How do you tell if the fuel pump on a 2001 Isuzu NPR diesel is good or bad?
I am new to this site, And I dont think Im writing this in the right place. I wish I had read this thread before I spent 4500$ getting my injector pump rebuilt, it may not have been needed. All of that said, What Im working on is a 2001 linkbelt 210lx excavator which has the 6bg1trb engine in it. Like i said, I I had the injector pump rebuilt on it at a cost of 4500$ because it was the opinon of the linkbelt dealer that the pump was bad, He may Have been Right, But the motor acts exactly the same as it did before we put the new pump on, We have plenty of fuel to the pump but no fuel will go through it, there is a chance we incorrectly install the new pump and the timing is way off, but my mechanic believes that it should still be pumping fuel even if its timed wrong... that it just wouldnt start that way. So let me go back to when the break down started, I was operating the machine and was in mid swing when the power went away, the swing came to a stop, the motor quit and would not restart at all after that. The machine had a history of fuel problems pretty much since it was new, My dad, (who died suddenly just over a year ago) was able to buy it for 16000$ back in 2009 , the machine only had 1800 hours on it at the time and now has 3000 or so. The machine wouldnt do it all the time, but sometimes it would cut out under a load and if you didnt get off of the power it would stall, My dad ended up installing a 24 volt satellite fuel pump (i see thigh might have been a mistake) and it seemed to help the problem, he also eliminated the stock isuzu fuel filter setup and added one from a john deere because he was worried the problem was that the machine was sucking air. Anyway, although it helped , it didnt completely make the problem go away. upon stalling, the machine would always start right back up and run pretty much as normal, sometimes it was worse than others... We have gone though the electrical system with a fine tooth comb and have not found and problems with resistors or fuses or relays or otherwise, It could be the computer, but they are pretty hard to find, i finnaly found one thats supposed to be for a sumitomo excavator but it has alll the exact same number of the one I at a cost of 1900$ WE live in a rural area and the linkbelt rep doesent have a diagnostic machine to take into the field, they say i would have to ship the machine to them in order to diagnose it. The dealership is three hours away and the mechanics wont stay over night or work overtime on it so, if i called one out, they would drive for three hours, work on the machine for two hours and then drive back to the city... uggg Does anyone have any suggestions for me? I know there is a fuel shut off soenoid that can go bad but it seems to be fine, I know also that the wiring has been suspect on these in the past but have spent ample time with qualified people and have not found a problem... I eveen bought a comprehensive wiring diagram and we went through wire by wire... Thanks in advance, I believe someone as qualified and professional as "powerstroke 57" may be able to help On the Isuzu (Zexel) injector pump there is a feature that most mechanics, not even diesel guys know about. Inside the bolt holding the banjo to the supply side or low pressure side of the injector pump. Right next to the little plunger. There is a small plastic screen. You must remove the bolt to see it. It;s inside the bolt. They are usually clogged with gunk. Clean that, prime the fuel system, and the truck should start. I would be willing to bet the farm that your problem lies here. Powerstroke57's advice below is not relevant to the Isuzu. The Isuzu pump is entirely mechanical, there are no coils. They last a long time. When he says lubricated by oil, I think he means that the pump is lubricated by the fuel oil passing through it. To more precisely answer your question, remove the pump and have it bench tested. But You should perform some troubleshooting on the engine first. (Powerstroke57) Yes oh yes my answer is completely correct and my answer is for Isuzu models up to 2004 that used mechanical injection pumps. As for the "field coils" i refer to are part of the pre-stroke and rack sensor's on these pumps. And to say these pumps are ENTIRELY mechanical is incorrect if you look in the back of the pump you will see 2 electrical harnesses coming out of the pump. These wires go to the pre-stroke actuators and rack sensor that control timing upon acceleration. They have resistance values that can be checked using DVOM. Trust me I do this test all the time!! And yes sir they are engine oil lubricated. The oil line comes from the rear cover area to the oil filter housing then to the side of the injection pump where the internal components are lubricated. Their is even an oil return line from the injection pump back to the engine block!! These pumps are mini-engines and they need lubrication too just like any other engine. Google it! I'm correct! I'm not here to teach a class but being a certified Isuzu tech I will always know more then any "Shade Tree" wanna be mechanic any day! If you don't know how these systems work then don't attempt to answer the question about them! I'm !00% correct google it. Not an answer but a step in diagnosing the problem. To see if fuel is getting to the engine you could Disconnect the glow plugs and start the engine with a little bit of ether. Check each fuel line to see that you are getting proper fuel pressure. If not work your way back from the engine. There is a connection on the side of the fuel pump, the fuel filter etc. The engine will not run or most likely be hard to start when the injector pump is worn. The injector pumps are very durable and everything else should be ruled out before replacing it. (It is the most expensive part on the engine) If you suspect a worn pump, wire in a cheap electric fuel pump back by the tank. This will force the fuel up to the pump, and you can extend it's life 30 to 50k. (Powerstroke57) Wow looks like we have some more shade tree "mechanic's" trying to answer questions again!! For starters NO do not install and electric fuel pump in line by the fuel tank to force fuel to the injection pump!!! The pump consists of 2 pumps. If you look on the side of the pump their is a priming plundger which unscrews to help the bleeding process when air has entered fuel system. Well thats your low side pump underneath the pump. This one produces approx 30-45psi of pressure and can be tested by either tapping into the fuel line at some point or making one by removing the top banjo bolt from the fuel filter housing drilling a hole in top,tap,screw in a fitting that will work with your fuel gauge and re-install into top line. You will see approx 30-45psi at that point. After that it is forced into the high pressure side of the pump and pressurized to many thousands pounds of pressure and then delivered to the injectors and then the cyl. The injection pump is basically a small engine and has alot of the same parts as a normal engine. Crankshaft,cam lobes, barrels, plundgers,pre-stroke and rack sensor (for timing). The low side pump is ran off of a lobe on the crankshaft inside the pump and don't fail that often. You can confirm this by performing the test noted above. (making sure the pick-up tube in the tank isn't broken or cracked trust me it happens more often than you think) In that the entire pump is basically and engine they fail the same way that a conventional engine might. Flat lobe on the cam-crankshaft's,scored barrels,broken crankshafts due to lack of oil lubrcation (yes its oil lubercated), missing teeth off of gears, etc. I have seen all sorts of failures in these pumps but the most common is an open in the rack sensor and or pre-stroke field coils. They have resistance values and can be tested by checking the pump side connector pins into the pump. Your local dealer could give you the values and pins to check. When this part fails it typically will run but smoke very very bad, miss fire, and just run like crap!! If you confirm low side fuel pressure and with injector lines removed at the pump with no fuel then you can determine a broken crankshaft,scored barrels,broken plundgers, major internal damage. So low side fuel pressure at 30-45psi (no broken pickup tube in fuel tank) and no fuel at pump lines means internal damage and rebuild is necessary. If vehicle runs but smokes test pre-stroke and rack sensor resistance values chances are their is an open in one or more field coils inside the pump and rebuild and timing set-up is also necassary this repair is less expensive a good shop may "re-fresh the plundgers and any other questionable component while they are inside. These are very complicated and expensive devices and no other "aftermarket" component like a electric fuel pump at the tank should ever be installed. If the engineers that designed the system didn't design it with one then doing so is doing it wrong and that person should not be listened too!! What this guy knows more then a engineers that prob spent hundreds of thousands of isuzu's money to design these components to work a certain way. So why didn't they just make it his way??? Because it's not the right way not to mention its going to cause even more problems with fuel delivery due to the pre-stroke and rack sensor adjust the timing on throttle position. Hello the low side pump is ran off of a cam lobe wich means it needs to be delivered at a certain time for the pump to operate correctly!! Putting a 50psi pump wich doesn't know any better then to pump is just idiotic and not the right way! I do this all day everyday so chances are i know alot more and have run into many more much more challenging problems then "shade tree's" ever have or ever will. And sucessfully fixed many many trucks in the process!! Hope this helps good luck dont froget the pick-up tube in the tank as a possiable problem. The easiest way to rule it out is to remove the fuel line from the water seperator and put into a aux jug of diesel and run vehicle if it does the same thing its not in the tank if it runs good and all fixed then you have just proved it's in the tank
How do you replace the Air Conditioning compressor clutch on a 1996 Saturn SL series?
UPDATED, see below... There are a/c clutch removal tools available at most auto parts stores. The process as experienced by someone repairing a Hummer is shown on this page: http://flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/hvac/airconditioning/clutchPullyService.htm You should be able to find the right tool by going to a local auto parts store. If not, at least this gives you something to look for online. UPDATE: Since writing this I've found you don't need a special tool, if your compressor is the same as on a 2002 Saturn SL which I've taken apart this weekend. This model uses a Zexel compressor (which I've written about in comments on another question), and the thing comes apart without arcane tools. Remove the central screw from the front, pry off the clutch plate with a flat screwdriver (yes, according to GM), and then use a 3-jaw puller like you can get at an auto parts store, and a suitable deep-well socket to remove the pulley if necessary. IMPORTANT: Use the deep-well socket to avoid placing ANY pressure on the compressor's shaft when you're using the puller; otherwise you'll damage your compressor and the shaft seal will be breached (i.e. refrigerant venting all over you). Check the clutch coil for continuity at the connector pins with a voltmeter set to measure resistance -- it should be pretty low. If it's very high or doesn't change when you touch the meter probes to the pins, then the coil wire is damaged somewhere. Also you can try putting 12V to the coil manually, and checking for a strong magnetic pull. If the coil is bad, remove three screws from the inside of the coil at the front, and it falls right off. The three screws are a bit hard to break free, so be sure to press into them hard with the screwdriver to keep from stripping them as you turn. (Why did they use Phillips screws for this?)
