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he is asking for the bore size of the clutch master cylinder....101.6mm is over 4 inches......that would be a really big master cylinder.........
You need to replace the rubber seals in the master cylinder. May even have to have the master cylinder re-sleaved.
The rubber cups should face into the bore from the back of the master cylinder.
Just disassembled the master cylinder on my Mazda B2000. It had rusty looking gunk in it and had formed rusty brown deposits on the cylinder wall. It was working in spite of this until the rubber of the primary cup split. Rebuilt the slave cylinder not long ago and it was gunked up worse than the master cylinder. Had to remove some crusty deposits to get the piston and cups out of the cylinder.
The clutch master cylinder is supplied from the brake fluid reservoir via a rubber tube.
a heater does not have a master cylinder; 'master cylinder' goes with assisted braking.
I advise you to perform a careful examination of your car's brake system.
there are two types of master cylinders 1.single cylinder 2.tendom master cylinder
In order to replace the master cylinder with ABS attached to the master cylinder on a 1995 Grand Am you will need to complete the following steps: Disconnect the negative battery cable. Locate the master cylinder which is attached to the drivers side of the firewall. Remove the ABS brake line from the master cylinder using a wrench. Disconnect the fluid hose from the master cylinder using a wrench. Unscrew the nuts that hold the master cylinder in place. Remove the master cylinder and install a new one. Reattach the fluid hose to the master cylinder. Reattach the ABS brake line to the master cylinder. Tighten all the nuts and bolts and reconnect the negative battery cable.Once all of these steps have been completed you can be sure that your master cylinder has been properly replaced and is ready for use.
I have an automatic. But (usually) The Slave Cylinder is on the transmission, easily accessible and easy to replace. It's a small thing on the transmission (usually) with a rubber boot with a piston inside. Have to bleed the clutch master cylnder as well. -CE
Start by taking the old master cylinder off first. First remove the brake lines from it and any wires/plugs that may be hooked into sensors. Then remove the 2 bolts that hold the master cylinder to your brake booster. If you bought just the master cylinder without the reservoir you are gonna have the reservoir off the old master cylinder. Be careful not to snap the plastic though. I found the easiest way to remove it with the tools I had, was to rip the top off the rubber seal off. Then I could fit a pair of needle nose pliers between the reservoir and the master cylinder. I positioned it different ways to "wedge" the reservoir out of the master cylinder. Do the same thing for both holes, unless you have a better way of doing it. After you have removed it, reinstall the reservoir on the new master cylinder. Then re-secure the master cylinder with the 2 bolts onto the brake booster. Reconnect the brake lines and sensors the same way they were before. You have to bleed the master cylinder using the bleeder on the engine side of the master cylinder. Then bleed the master cylinder out to the brake lines to make sure brake fluid was flowing properly. Then you can go thru your brakes and bleed them properly, starting from the furthest location.
The real question is "what are you trying to adjust?" If you are looking to make your clutch petal shorter IE like a sport performance clutch you need a "quick clutch" master cylinder. Omni Power Performance has one of the best ones IMHO. If you are looking to change the engagement point well forget it, the engagement point is based of that master cylinder, if you get a quick clutch, you are either engaged (petal out) or disengaged (petal in). A standard master cylinder gives leeway on the engagement point based on the amount of fluid being pushed through the cylinder. Standard Master Cylinder Piston Size = About 15cm Omni Power Master Cylinder Piston Size = About 22