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What is the spark plug gap for a 8Hp Briggs and stratton?

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Answered 2010-12-23 04:56:35

On a valve-in-block 8HP with an RJ19LM or equivalent plug, it is 0.030"

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Our Techumseh 8HP has a Champion J8C


I have an early 90's 2cyl, 8hp, 2-stroke and the gap is .040.


It is around a 5 hp. *this is incorrect: the ones they sell currently would be more in the 7.5-8hp range, seeing as an equally featured 190cc briggs and stratton engine is 6.75hp on a lawn mower the additional 15cc bump it up to around 8hp.


Capacity is 36 ounces. I highly recommend you use Synthetic oil in this air cooled engine. Change it once each year.


The 108 is an 8hp Briggs & stratton tractor made from about 1980 to 1986. It was replaced by the JD 130. Your JD dealer should be able to look up the microfilm listing for the tractor and give you an exact year of manufacture from the serial number.


one reason for this is the air inlet on the petrol cap is blocked or too small causing a vacuum in the petrol tank and starving the motor.


First change the oil. Then before trying to start squirt someoil (about to table spoons) into the spark plug hole, replace plug and try starting.


Between 5.5 and 6 horsepower *7.5-8hp The Vanguard series is rated at 6.5 HP. Most small engines these days are no longer rated by HP but, rather torque. Several models of Briggs 205cc engines are rated at either 8 or 9 ft/lbs of torque. I can also add that the "Intek" and "Polar Force" series of the 205cc class are rated at 9 ft/lbs torque and 7.5 HP.


318cc. is 8hp. 305cc.is probably between a 6 to an 8hp.


What year is the 8hp Mercury outboard with serial o6156590 ?


There are two types, both on the camshaft. Lower HP (around 8HP or less) typically have a lobe with a bump on it that keeps a valve (often the exhaust) open at RPMS under 250, aiding in starting because the valve does not fully close) Larger engines have a counterweight on the cam that swings "up" at the same RPMs are "removes" the high spot achieving the same affect as above.


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well first make sure that the gap between the armature and the flywheel is about .010" then if its properly set up the breaker points will open and close creating the necessary break in the current to allow a spark to be generated by the breaker points the gap should be about .020" on most modles but check the manual for your specific modles if they open and close at the right time then it will spark different modles use different methods but if they are hooked up right then the engine will fire on time


some sites say 1952 ,others say 54, and that model# is a 7.5 not an 8hp


Cc and horsepower are not compatible.


For the aluminum the intake valve clearance is .005 to .007 inches. exhaust valve clearance is .007 to .009 inches. Cast iron is - intake valve is .007 to .009. inches exhaust valve is .017 to .019 inches


Anywhere from 0.040 of an inch to 0.050 of an inch will be acceptable. The gap is not that critical, the wider the gap the less chance for carbon deposit within the electrodes. The high voltage circuits does provide enough energy to generate a blue spark accross the mentioned gaps. Do not dwell on the subject. Gap both plugs the same and enjoy your Merc. Please use high quality oils and gas, little engines deserves the best. Pops D


Depends on the engine. Generally between a pint and a quart. A Briggs and Straton 8hp takes about 24oz. Kohler or TecumsehPower should be close to that as well. If you are changing the oil and the engine has a dipstick, I would put in a pint (16oz) and then check the stick. If it is still low, I would add about 2oz at a time and check again until it does read full. If it is older and does not have a dipstick, just fill it until the oil comes right to the mouth of the fill opening.


that type of engine solely depends on the person on it. With the average man on it (180ib) or bigger than you are looking at 50-80 mph 180-190=70 -80mph for every 5 pounds bigger take away 5 pounds


Why not just place it on a scale and weigh it.


The governor is driven by the cam gear (in turn driven by the crank gear) and is attached on the engine sump (side of engine opposite the flywheel). There is no need to remove it, you can simply de-activate it by removing the linkage that goes to the carburetor that opens or closes the throttle as dictated by the governing system.



$600-$800 in fine working condition.


Not very fast, possibly about 25 mph.


If the first digit in this serial number is possibly "A", instead of 4, this would be a 1987 year model 8hp. I do not recall the 8hp model Mercury outboard in production before the A model, in 1986.



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