I have never seen any diagram suggesting such. However, I would advise that you start in the middle, and work your way outward in a circular type motion. And, I would break down the toque, in half, then go back, tightening to full torque, second round. In other words, two incriments. After each main cap, turn the crankshaft to make sure it is turning freely. This way you will know which cap is a problem, if there is one. Remember to use assembly lube on the main bearings, only the surfaces that touch the crank journals. Always platigage, at least a few bearings, to make sure the crank frinder wasn't off. And remember to use covers for your rod bolts, when installing the pistons. Nothing marks a crank journal, like case hardened rod bolt threads.
Start in the middle, and work your way out, in a circular pattern. First, go half torque, then full, turning the crankshaft by hand after each cap.
Looking at the front of the engine. The engine/ crankshaft will turn clowkwise.
torque specs 350 Chevy heads65 lbs
400 block, with a 350 crankshaft. 383 cid.
on the left lower side of the engine block
35ft. lbs.
Chevy in 1977 changed the rear main oil seal to a one piece seal. the older crankshaft wont work.
on a 93 Chevy cavalier ls how to get the crankshaft sensor out of the block also can I remove the oil pan to get to the crankshaft sensor
45 lbs.
Next to the oil filter, bolted to the block.
By the part number. Probably be a 39, series number.
its located at the rear of the engine (center) attached to the block