What is the torque when replacing front wheel bearings on a 1995 Ford F150 four wheel drive with manual hubs?

Answer 1

First I'm not sure how detailed you want this, but here goes

Remove the tire, and support the front end. Pop the brake assembly off of it (which usually requires driving out two diamond shaped rubber pins, replace those as well).

The next step is to take the 4wd lockout hub apart, first take out the six Allen bolts that hold the cap on. A spring should come out, then you will need to remove two snap rings. One holds an aluminum piece with grooves in it and fits around the hub. The other is on the end of the shaft that powers the 4wd. After the snap rings are out, an aluminum grooved piece will need to be taken out. this fits into the grooves in the hub.

Now it takes a special tool that is a socket with four small fingers on it to take out the threaded retaining ring and its a half inch drive. Advance auto parts has this kit. Ford has about 3 different configurations for that ring so either rent or buy the kit. The first ring will come out, then there is a spacer washer that fits onto a pin that is attached to the second retaining ring. The second retaining ring is how you setup the play in the bearings. Again, pay attention as there is a small pin in it that the washer fits onto. That washer has an ear that fits into the groove in the hub as well so you have to make sure that the inner ring is rotated correctly so the pin fits into the spacer washer.

Now the whole hub should easily slide off. The outer bearing will pop out easily. The inner bearing will need to be driven out with the seal. I usually use a socket the correct size of the bearing as to not damage it and drive it out with a hammer (brass is best). Replace the seal when you repack the bearings and reassemble.

If your bearing went totally dry, you will probably have to replace it and drive out the race as well and then drive in a new one. DO NOT damage the race as it will affect the bearing and ruin the new one immediately.

Pack the bearings with grease, swipe grease around the races. Put the inner bearing in place, then swipe grease around the lip of the seal and drive it carefully back flush to the back of the hub (making sure the inner bearing is in place). If you don't grease the rubber lip, you may damage it when you slide the hub assembly back on the front end.

Slide the hub assembly back on the front end, and then install the outer bearing. Next find the threaded ring with the pin, pin side out of course, then tighen it until you reach the correct bearing play. Now install the spacer washer, making sure its fits in the hub groove and onto a pin on the threaded ring. You may have to adjust the inner ring slightly.

Once you make sure the washer is in there correctly, tighen the second ring to the first one, which serves as a double nut principle which makes sure the first ring never comes off.

Now finish the job, it should be easy from here. Lay your parts out in order as you take them apart is my best advice.

I've done this on a 1991 F150 and 250, 1993 F250, and a 1989 F250. I don't think they changed this setup on the 1995's.

On the 1995 F-150 4x4, the caliper is not held on with the pins anymore, I had an '88 and a '91 that had those. The 1995 has two bolts on the back side of the caliper, similar to the newer cars and trucks.