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Parasitic (or ignition key off) drain is the cumulative load produced by electrical devices, for example, emissions computers, clocks, security alarms, radio presets, etc., that operate continuously after the engine is stopped and the ignition key has been switched off. Normal parasitic loads are below 75 milliamps (.075 amps). When the parasitic load is greater than 75 milliamps (.075 amps), batteries will drain more quickly. Glove box, trunk, and under hood lights that do not automatically turn off when the door is closed or shorted diodes in alternators are the most common offenders. Cooling fans, power seat belt retractors, radios and dome lights left on, alarm systems, and electric car antennas have also caused batteries to drain overnight. Leaving your headlights on will generally discharge a fully charged car battery, with 90 minutes of Reserve Capacity (36 amp hours), within a couple of hours.

It is highly recommended, especially if you are using a sealed wet "Maintenance Free" (Ca/Ca) battery, allow to thaw if frozen, fully recharge it in a well ventilated area with an external battery charger, remove the surface charge, and load tested both the battery and the charging system for latent damage from the deep discharge. You could have a damaged or bad battery. If the alternator is warm and the engine is cold, then check for a shorted diode in the alternator.

Below are some methods that are used to test the parasitic load with the engine NOT running, under hood light disconnected, all accessories switched off, and the vehicle doors closed:

  • Connect a 12-volt bulb across the positive and negative battery terminals to test the bulb and the battery. If it glows brightly, then remove the negative battery cable and connect the bulb in series between the negative battery cable terminal clamp and the negative battery terminal. If the bulb continues to glow brightly, then start removing fuses or connections to the positive battery post one-at-a-time until the offending electrical component is identified by the bulb dimming.
  • A better approach is to use a DC ammeter, for example a Fluke 175, inserted in series with the negative battery cable terminal clamp and the negative battery terminal or a clamp-on DC ammeter, like a Fluke 336 or i410 around the negative battery cable. Starting with the highest scale, determine the current load. If the load is above 75 milliamps (.075 amps) after the initial surge, then start removing fuses or connections to the positive battery post one-at-a-time until the offending electrical component is identified by the parasitic load dropping to within 75 milliamps (.75 amps).
Bad altanator!!!

I have an 89 Mark VII LSC with 300,000 plus miles have had for 10 plus years and love it, as for battery drain i have found that a notorious problem for this is the Voltage Regulator mounted on the passenger side wheel well, very easy to change, 2 screws and a plug, I keep a spare in the trunk, they cost about $10.00 , and when they fail it will drain your battery in less than 12 hours time, unless there was an obvious reason for battery drain such as Lights left on, etc...etc.. this is always my first suspect, they will usually fail approx every 5 years, I also have found that the alternator will also only last for right at 5 years if you have a good one, so I always change both.

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โˆ™ 2009-10-11 13:38:03
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Q: What kills the charge on the battery?
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No gas can kill the battery?

Out of gas versus dead batteryRunning out of gas in and of itself would have absolutely nothing to do with a dead battery.On the other hand, IF someone, not realizing that the gas tank was empty, were to continuously crank, and crank, and crank the engine erroneously thinking they could get the engine to start, then it is for certain that they will drain the charge from the battery and thus "kill" the battery.It's not the being "out of gas" that kills the battery, but the vehicle operator that kills a battery.

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Does plugging in a f-250 help charge the battery?

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Charge the definition of the charge of battery?

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