What should a bad motor read in ohms if it is bad?
If an Alternating Current (a/c) motor is bad.
The resistance will read very hi as in an open winding. ie: meg ohms
Or very low as in a shorted winding. ie: 0.01 ohms
It must not read any resistance to the housing or shaft.
The resistance between leads should be a reasonable value and can be determined with : electromotive force divided by inductance equals resistance.
example: 215 volt alternating current with name plate full load amperes of 10 should read very near 21.5 ohms resistance between leads.
Test your two primary points with ohms should read zero - where your spark plug wire goes in is your secondary - test it with one primary point should read resistance then test other primary point with secondary should read the same - coil is good - if two primary are not zero bad coil - if second with primary read zero coil is bad.
You use a megger. This allows you to check what the condition of the insulation of the motor windings are. An ohms check on each phase should be an easy way if it reads OPEN then there's your bad phase. Otherwise there are diffrent types of 3 phase motors, could be the brushes, commutator, sliprings, many many things.
If you have a bad O2 sensor you should have a check engine light on. Using a diagnostic scanning device you can read the code(s) set in the cars computor. The code(s) will tell you which sensor is bad. Many auto parts store can read your cars codes for you if you purchase the parts necessary to repair the problem from them.
Which source would likely contain bad evidence for a claim about why people should read a certain book?
With power going to the blower motor in your 1994 Cadillac Deville at all times even with key off but the motor will not run?
First of all there shouldn't be power to the motor with the key off. If there is power and the motor doesn't work either the motor is bad or there is a bad ground or bad switch or possibly a fuse. Something is not completing the circuit. I'm sure you checked all for the related fuses first? This should get you started.
You have a Horn Relay in power distribution box. Remove horn relay, connect jumper from terminal 85 to ground, connect one end of second jumper from terminal 86, connect one lead of a ohmmeter to terminal 30 and other lead of ohmmeter to terminal 87-should be resistance, now connect loose end of jumper from terminal 86to battery +, should now read zero ohms on meter...relay should also "click" oterwise it is bad. Another thing that…
First make sure power is off...there is three leads that supply power to compressor...they should be Yellow Black and Red....make a diagram where these leads connect on your unit and then disconnect them...You will need a multi meter to check ohms of resistance...Yellow is usually the common lead...attach one meter lead to it...now touch other meter lead to black lead...should read somewhere between 1 to 4 ohms...now touch the meter lead to the red wire...should…
lightning ,sand in the windings, bad winding, cheap motor, wrong impeller(to big),bad seal(leaks water into motor), bad bearings, blocked air flow(to cool the motor) and IMPROPPER power to the motor. you should keep motor clean of grass and the such and up off the ground and away from the drip edge of your roof., it can handle rain just not all that's off the roof of your house !
The easiest way is to disconnect the power and apply an Ohm meter across the terminals. Depending upon the solenoid and the power source you should read something from a few ohms to a few hundred. This will vary greatly. If you read in the thousands or an open circuit it is probably bad. You also want to measure the resistance from the input wiring to the case. Again the reading will vary greatly. For…
Yes, an older pump/motor can draw more amps. This usually happens when the motors windings are going bad or the bearings are going out. This causes the motor to have to work harder to rotate. It should have its own breaker. If its blowing your main, The motors windings are probably bad and the motor should be replaced.
I would first check for vacuum leaks. If the check engine light is on, it could be the TPS, (Throttle Position Sensor). A bad TPS will idle fine, then the engine will stumble on acceleration. But if the pedal is depressed & held in a certain position, the computer will finally figure out that the throttle is open by the signals of the other sensors & then the engine will purr up to it's proper…