That can't be answered without seeing the details of your plans.
Not sure why you need a beam that bears no load. You can go 22'. Beyond that it needs to be broken down to shorter lengths.
Depends on how much weight is above it!! but on 1 -2 story wood framed structures triple 2x12's glued and nailed will do the trick
All exterior walls in a home are load bearing. The exterior walls on the gable end of your house do not bear much load, but the walls that the hip of the roof bear on carry your roof and ceiling joints. Interior walls are another story. Usually in a smaller one story home there is a wall that runs the midspan of the house that is load bearing for your roof and ceiling joints.
You will need to go to the level above the wall. If girders, joists or another wall is supported by your initial wall, then that becomes a 'load'. Supported by by the wall downstarirs, Thus bearing a load
Depends on the area above the ceiling joists. Is it a live load (living space) or dead load (just the joists with maybe an attic above)? Also, the length of the ceiling joists from the last bearing point is a factor. How much weight is bearing on the beam is the critical issue.
38 feet longIt is not possible to give a definite answer without more detail. The construction and type of roof will determine the load (weight) bearing on the beam, and factors such as wind load and earthquake load, and the way the roof bears on the beam (truss/point load/distributed load) will all affect the sizing.
38 feet longIt is not possible to give a definite answer without more detail. The construction and type of roof will determine the load (weight) bearing on the beam, and factors such as wind load and earthquake load, and the way the roof bears on the beam (truss/point load/distributed load) will all affect the sizing.
Support the load whatever it is, roof, second floor, generally by putting a temporary beam under the joist inside of the existing wall, tear the wall out and put in a beam to carry the load. How big the beam needs to be depends on what the load is and how long the span is. Support the beam on each end and remove the temporary beam. These are the general steps, each project is going to be slightly different and has to be figured on it's own.
Not sure why you need a beam that bears no load. You can go 22'. Beyond that it needs to be broken down to shorter lengths.
need more info. Don't know it is that you want for sure. A load bearing beam is any beam that supports weight bearing down or suspended from it. The name says it all. Need to know exactly what it is you want to know
yes A lot more can happen if you remove a load bearing wall and do not add the proper support such as a beam or girder, even building collapse.
you have to change the beam to another one that could be hollow and most likely change it to a triangle beam because it is the strongest shape
If the concrete roof is on a brick load bearing wall you cannot open up the wall unless you have a concrete-steel beam below it . If you want a small door or window as opening you can open up the wall (not completely) but lay a beam under the wall for strength .
That really cannot be answered without seeing your plans and design. Your lumber supplier may size it for you, though it will be overkill...
With a span of only 8" you can probably use a wood beam, but without a set of plans no one can accurately answer your question.
beam transfer loads from the joist to the wall or column where it supports..
only one load bearing beam will be provided for Single girder EOT crane