It is sad that the FAQFarm system causes most technical questions to fall way short of the mark regarding enough information to understand enough of your problem to give more than a cursory analysis and answer.
Since I don't know WHICH warning lights are turning on/off and flickering, I have to guess that they are the oil pressure light and the battery/charging [alternator] light. I also suspect that it occurs when the vehicle is idling, not during that time while the vehicle is being driven. The problem will be more pronounced if there is an automatic transmission in gear while stopped [as at a traffic light].
You need to observe carefully WHICH lights are involved, and the conditions [driving, stopped and idling, etc.] If it IS occurring AT IDLE, try placing the automatic transmission in NEUTRAL while standing at stop lights, and carefully observe the lights.
IF this improves or eliminates the problem, then that is a clue as to cause.
IF the problem is just the oil pressure AND alternator lights, AND the problem is eliminated or reduced/improved by idling IN NEUTRAL, the MOST PROBABLE CAUSE is that the IDLE SPEED [RPM/Revolutions per minute] is set TOO LOW.
IF the problem were JUST the alternator light only, it would suggest:
[1] A slipping drive belt, or [2] A low or weak alternator output [possibly caused by a defective alternator or voltage regulator].
IF the problem were JUST the oil pressure warning light ONLY, it would suggest the possibility of engine and/or oil pump wear.
I suggest that the first thing to check is the IDLE SPEED, and if it is below specification for your engine, have the IDLE RPM SPECIFIED BY THE MANUFACTURER. Once the idle is PROPERLY set, continue to carefully observe the action of the warning lights for a few days.
IF the problem WAS the idle speed, then the proper adjustment should make the warning light issue "go away."
If both lights continue to go on and off, and flicker, then it appears that you have TWO PROBLEMS, a defective charging system, AND engine and/or oil pump wear serious enough to reduce the oil pressure to an unsafe level [for the engine]].
If this last situation is the case, you need to get your vehicle to a very good mechanic, NOT JUST an electrical and/or tune-up technician.
It could be your alternator is going bad
I have the same problem with my 2004 Sunfire. Leave the ignition on for 10 minutes. Just let it sit for 10 minutes. No shorter than that time. And Should start.
Most are up underneath the dashboard. Turn on the heater blower motor and listen where the sound is coming from. The heater core is behind that sound.
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why do most all my dash light come on and the one head light looking one blinks.. i do have about 14 volts coming from the alternator and the battery at all times.
If the Coolent is leaking I strongley suggest you take the car to the dealer or a dealer to get it fixed because if it leaks more it can cause trouble.
If its BLACK smoke it's unburned fuel. If it has carb, the carb float is too high or sunk. If it has fuel injection it's a stuck (open) fuel injector.
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Well, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. It may very well be that your pump is what's making the noise.
Usually indicative or a problem with the emission control system - have vehicle scanned to determine the problem
If your window is like my grand am the glue that holds the track and window together is not holding properly, so window keeps coming off track. I have not found a glue that holds yet.
i find it best from the top because laying under your car dosent give much space or movement