Ignition Module, also, TESTED?? how did you test the coil ... I've seen "tested" coils that didn't work... read up on it. Everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and a professional shop manual should be available at your local library for diagnostic procedures etc, just make copies of the right pages, as they are usually REFERENCE only...read up and good luck :)
The throttle position sensor can be tested by moving the throttle as observing the engine's response. If it is smooth and consistent, the sensor is functioning properly.
Change the plugs and wires. also check the throttle position sensor or have it tested
I believe it is the black wire coming from stock o2 sensor. I have tested this wire with votmeter and have seen voltage fluctuation from 200 mv - 900mv. I think this is correct.
This code is for the transmission The Direct clutch speed sensor. Have it tested most likely it has to be replaced. Had the same problem myself and managed to fix it by replacing the sensor.
This code indicates CMP (Camshaft Position) sensor and CKP (Crankshaft Position) sensor incorrect phase is detected. This code is normally caused by a faulty CMP sensor or faulty wiring to the sensor. However it may also be that the timing belt has jumped. Most likely it is a faulty sensor. Have sensors tested and replace as necessary. To replace the CMP sensor remove the air cleaner and EGR valve.. then disconnect the sensor connector and remove the attached bolt. The sensor will then come out of the intake camshaft side of the cylinder head.
Its a better bet that your O2 sensor is fouled and/or needs replaced. You can go to AUTOZONE and have it tested for free. There are two; one in front of the sensor (this is the one to have tested), and a second between the catalytic converter and muffler. Don't make the mistake (sigh....) of finding that the sensor is bad and replacing the wrong one. The one in front of the catalytic converter is a bear to replace (usually) and if you've not replaced it, that's probably a good place to start. If that sensor is OK, test the back one. If both are OK, then you're looking at the converter. Good luck!
try taking the ignition control module to oreilly's to have it tested. How long ago were the plugs wires cap and rotor replaced?
depending on what year I have researched and found my 94 olds 88 has a gm commonly failing part called a Crank Shaft position sensor it is located behind the tensioner pully cost me $200 to have it tested and replaced and I haven't had a problem since
If the cam position sensor goes bad certain vehicles may not start (some require a signal from this sensor before they will). If it does start it will run rough especially at low revs. Most ecu's will give you an error code if the cam position sensor goes bad. They can be tested with an oscillating volt meter ( oscilliscope ) by checking the signal wire and ground while someone else cranks the starter. Many times these sensors are working fine but need to be cleaned to give a proper signal.
Cause it's not American. Buy a proper car!.... EH...WRONG! My 1990 Integra GS is doing this so I tested it, and it was throwing a code 9 which ir cylinder position sensor. Have you tested yours yet?
have the fuel pump tested, also check cam positioning sensor
Alternator is not charging. Have it tested and/or replaced.
Check for a broken wire in one of the cluster of plugs on top of the left wheelwell. Have you checked the plug-in connection fo the crankshaft position sensor located behind the A/C Pwr. steering bracket? A new sensor costs about $150. A fault code would show up if it was bad.
Check the crank position sensor
I would say you have to check your coil packs, and ignition module to see if they are firing on all cylinders, and have the correct spark. Anything but a bright blue spark means a weak coil. The ignition module can be tested at some parts stores.
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im stuck on the same thing, but one thing i also tested that you havent is the transistor pack
Back probe both wires of the sensor and use an AC voltage setting or your readings will be bad
1995 ford ranger 4wd cranks over but no spark, replaced crank sensor Check battery power to coil connector, if that is good coil can be tested w/multimeter.
yes but the cam sensor and the crank sensor work to geather so make sure to have it tested if you can to make sure wich is bad .
injection for 724.2
A VRS sensor and you can measure it with a DVOM on A/C Votlage by probing both wires and cranking the car.
The coil and crank position sensor are known issues on this car
Yes, it does. I know, because mine is faulty on my Chevy Malibu and it was just replaced. My car would shut off at stop lights and even when driving down the road. It felt as if it was something electrical, or even a fuel issue. Two months of car repairs, which included tune-up, new fuel filter, and trip to the dealer (who couldn't figure out the problem), the mechanic did a google search and found that the crankshaft sensor goes out pretty frequently in Chevys. Hope this helps. Actually the answer to the original question is NO, the camshaft sensor does not replace the crankshaft sensor. On my 98 Malibu I have a camshaft sensor, a 7x crank sensor and a 24x crank sensor. My Malibu is not starting, we've tested the crank sensor and replaced the computer and still no fire to the plugs. The ignition module has been tested and it's good. There have been a lot of discussion about the Passlock system, but I reset that, now I'm turning towards the camshaft sensor which is suppose to control the fuel and the tach, but there may be other interactions with the computer that keeps it from firing the ignition system. The only indication the camshaft sensor is bad is I get no reading from the tach no the dash or from my OBDII computer reader. My book says the computer uses both crank and camshaft sensor when firing the injectors, but if the plugs don't fire, the injectors aren't the problem and I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and no joy.