Ford Probe

What would cause a 93 probe gt not to turn over with clutch engaged it will start by jumping starter but not like it should using clutch?


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2007-12-23 23:21:39
2007-12-23 23:21:39

Misadjusted or bad clutch safety switch? Usually located at the upper end of the clutch pedal


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Clutch interlock should only prevent you from cranking the starter without the clutch depressed. You should be able to push start with this malfunctioning since the rotating motor is doing just what it would be if the starter worked.

You should be able to turn the starter with little effort when it is not engaged with the flywheel.

the starter should not stay engaged after the vehicle is running. more than likely the armuertor or the bendix is faulty. replace the starter.

It's mounted on the engine's base, where the gearbox conects with the engine. if you know where the clutch disk is you should see the starter motor next to it.

Start by removing the stator side engine cover. There should be around 10-12 bolts (8mm). Next pull the flywheel. On the backside of the flywheel is 8 Allen bolts. Remove these and your starter clutch assembly will be off.

If the starter is whining while the engine is running at an idle you have a problem with the ignition switch or the starter solenoid is stuck. The starter should not be engaged while the engine is running unless you are holding the key over on the start position.

There is a switch on the clutch pedal that keeps you from starting the car in gear and killing someone. You should use your clutch anyways. Saves wear and tear on the starter and battery

If the clutch is engaged & turning, there should be no problem getting freon into the system, unless the orifice tube is plugged.

You should try to bleed the system first. If that does not fix completely it is possible that you may need to adjust the slave throw.

It's right underneath your clutch pedal. If you take a flashlight and look at where your acceleration, brake, and clutch are, you'll find that each of these has a fuse. The clutch fuse has a little rod that gets pushed in against a spring, and the fuse should have two wires, one black one red, running from it up into your car.

The best thing to do is find the 2 adjustment screws for the clutch which are located attached to your clutch lever housing and on the clutch cable. Turn them outwards (lossen them) so that it tightens the cable and spreads the clutch plates apart, remember that you should end up with a gap (about the thinckness of a nickel) where the clutch lever and the housing rest as not to have your clutch partially engaged. If that is not enough and the bike wants to surge forward a bit then just adjust one of the screws (usually the one on the cable) until the clutch completely disengages the plates and the bike should not surge forward at all.

When parking, especially on a hill, the hand brake should be fully engaged When you are driving a manual transmission vehicle, the handbrake can be partially engaged to give you better control as you push the clutch and gas when starting from a stopped position going uphill, so you don't roll backwards.

You should be engaged longer then two months!!

there should either be a screw adjuster on the arm that pushes on the throw-out bearing or similar. I had many old Renaults and always did clutch adjusts on them without problems, don't remember exactly how. But if you aren't dissengaging then the throw-out bearing is not pushing in far enough, so you need to adjust so there is more pressure on the throw out bearing when it is not engaged, so when it is engaged (clutch pushed in) it pushes farther. Be careful or when not engaged you could have clutch-slip. To find the adjuster, find the arm coming out of the clutch housing, just follow it back and you will find the adjuster, has to be a screw pushing the lever, or maybe a screw on the back on slave cylinder that pushes the plunger in/out against the throw out bearing arm.The master cylinder is not adjustable, the adjustment will either be on the slave cylinder or someplace in that area.

The 1991 Ford Explorer should have a separate starter relay that sends power to the starter. It sounds like the relay has stuck and is sending power to the starter even after the vehicle is running.

The clutch safety switch is on the clutch pedal shaft. It is a small black box with a plunger coming out of it. When you push the clutch down, the clutch safety switch connects the starter and it should turn over. If it doesn't you may have to replace it or adjust it. It's adjustable. Just adjust it until the red plunger is fully retracted out of the switch when the clutch pedal is pushed in all the way.

First of all this is not an easy task . On the left side of machine is your clutch cover . This needs to come off . The back fender is attached to the left foot rest by 2 bolts , take these off as they will help get clutch cover off . There is several screws to the cover . After the cover is off ,you will see the 2 clutches . Take the bolt out of the rear clutch and pull it straight out , this will allow you to take off drive belt . Then you need to take off the front clutch , which will require a special puller that screws in after you take out front clutch bolt . With both clutches off you need to remove the inner clutch backing plate . there is 3 or 4 screws by the end of crankshaft and 3 screws to the back of housing . With all this off the machine you can see the back of starter . There is a bracket that holdes the starter to the motor remove the 2 screws on top that hook to the motor . Un hook the nut that holds the battery cable to starter . Then go to other side of machine . The recoil starter assy has to be removed . When you get this off you can see the starter gear . There is 2 bolts that go into the starter that need to be removed . Then there is several small bolts that hold the skid plate under the machine . These need to come out and remove plate . Then you should be able to remove starter by pulling it to you from the clutch side . The starter drive will probably come too . There is one bolt on the recoil cover that is hard to get out . If you unhook the foot brake linkage and the spring , you can remove it through the hole that the spring hooks into .Good luck hope this helps you .

I'm having this problem right now, on the same model, with 30,000 fewer miles. My mechanic diagnised the issue as ignition switch failure- he says that the spring which should retract a pushrod, or something, is not retracting, and therefore the starter continues to be engaged when it should disengage. The starter is thinking that it should be engaged, when you don't want it to be engaged because of the electrical current sent to it by the ignition switch. Get it? This can also cause the car to engage the starter in neutral and park, but not in "drive, reverse, 2 or 1". Another good point is that the switch can be switched out with a new or used part without having to rekey the vehicle. Good luck!

Then why did you replace a perfectly good starter? ALWAYS test old parts and know what you're doing BEFORE you start throwing new parts at a problem. Find out WHY it isn't starting. Does the starter engage and turn the engine? IF it does, then the starter is probably fine. If not, check the starter, battery, electrical connections, ignition switch and neutral safety switch. If the starter has ALWAYS engaged and turned the engine, you should not have changed the starter in the first place; instead, you should be finding out what's wrong.

Try checking the starter relay under the hood, first. You should be able to swap it with the A/C relay right beside it. If it cranks, then replace the defective relay. If it still just clicks, then most likely it is your starter solenoid, which is mounted to and a part of most starters now. You can test the starter by jumping out the leads, but you need to have a little more knowledge about what you are doing before attempting this.

The clutch should last approx 150,000 miles. There is no need to replace this if it isn't abused

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