check the ground straps from engine to EMC (computer), make sure all ground connections are good.also check battery too engine for good ground contact surface,clean both batt. terminals and apply some axel grease.
under the distributor cap It's to the passengers side of the distributor cap. Go to autozone, napa, any large auto store online, look it up. It should have a picture. With that you should be able to see it. I just replaced mine 2 months ago.
When you say ignition module, what do you mean? There is the box outside the distributor that sends pulses to the coil and is usually called the ignition module. Another thing to look at is the pickup coil. Check for a sensor that is inside the distributor. There should be either a star wheel or a wheel with slotted holes for a light beam. If the pickup sensor or light isn't working or somehow fouled it can affect the operation of the ignition. It all depends on the system used by the vehicle manufacturer, and unfortunately, you'll have to do a little investigating.
I ran into this with a '97 Yukon (same vehicle) and after months of running into this problem intermittently, it turned out to be a small harness in the distributor housing that had corroded ... discovered this after already replacing the obvious ... cap / rotor / coil / and ignition module.
Sounds to me like you need a new set of ignition wires. Spark from the coil takes the path of least resistance.
5W30 weight in the winter months and 10W30 in the hot months.
I know a T-10 Chevy pick upis 4-wheel drive and S-10 is a 2 wheel drive, what is a R-10 pick up? Modules can go bad from old. worn plugs or wires, how old are yours? Autozone modules and economy modules are also known for not lasting. It could be that the modual is overheating due to engine compartment temp around that area. Double check replacement instructions and make sure you use dielectric grease between the mod. and mount area My 94 C1500 has been doing the same. I replaced the module with one from Autozone along with the coil. The module went bad again four months later (7000 miles) and had it replaced by a mechanic. He said it went bad again because I didn't change the coil cable. Now just two months later, it has gone bad again (I think). I have had the plugs and plug wires replaced and it starts now and then. I'm going to replace the module with a better quality one but would also like to replace the two conductor wiring assembly that connects the module to the coil. It starts when I fool with the connector near the ignition module connector. Does anyone know where to find this wiring harness? alot of time if you have bad grounds it will not be getting enough volts to the module and cause them to over heat and some times burn them up! A bad pick up coil can cause an excessive load on the ignition module. I had this problem with my '85 K5. I replaced about 5 modules in 2 months. Then I dropped a new distributor in it and didn't have any more problems.
5W30 in the COLD months and 10W30 in the HOT months. GTX gastrol is a GOOD brand
It's a tough call, but the one we did a couple of months ago, had a bad computer. It would run good for a few minutes, and then start running rough, as if there was a load being placed on the engine. Then of course, it would cough and die. Have you checked the ignition module? It's the plate that the coils sit on, that has the wires connected to it. Most junk yards sell the complete coil pack (mount, ignition module and both coils) for 25-35.00 $.
Check the ignition coils and the crankshaft position sensor. One of these could be failing as they heat up.
6 months 24 months 12 months 18 months
10W30 in winter. 20W50 in the hot months.
Go to the DEALER and buy a A/C delco cap and rotor and you won't have to replace it so soon. The caps and rotors that the aftermarket places sell will not stand up to the HIGH ENERGY IGNITION SYSTEM and it BURNS them up.