Usually when an engine overheats the distributor is the least of your worries. An overheated engine could potentially melt itself into a 300 pound chunk of scrap metal if it gets hot enough.
A break is also known as a breakaway, which means you are running down the field with a good amount of speed.
Quit running after its fully up to temp? Restarts after it cools down? Check the spark when it does it, could be the ignition control module.
I cant remember if a 1994 had a distributer or not. If it has a distributer, there is no crankshaft position sensor. That information is a calculated value using the input from the distributer stator(pickup coil). If there is no distributer, then there will be a crank sensor on the front of the engine down by the crank pulley.
distributer cap, low octane gas, or spark plugs i would do the distributer cap first.
sounds like it could be an ignition module problem...when they get hot they quit, and when they cool down they will work again....most auto supply stores can test the module
Rotate the crankshaft to top dead center, 0 deg on the timing marks, then with some white nail polish lol, mark the distributer where it is presently locked down, both on the base and the manifold as to ease the replacement. Unbolt the dist, and it's hold down, once it is out, cap off, no need to pull any wires except the 2 plugs that connect's to the base of the distributer. Remove the rotor, ignition module, carefully !, when you replace that you will need some dielectric grease to apply under the module to protect it from the engines heat, any parts store will have it. A few small screws hold the baseplate down, pull that, their will be a circle clip there also, remove that and the pick-up coil is there, again be careful as it is brittle, reverse to replace. jr
TO REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTER, FIRST DEADTIME THE DISTRIBUTER TO WHERE THE ROTOR IS FACING NUMBER ONE SPARK PLUG WIRE. TO MAKE SURE IT IS ON ONE, LOOK DOWN AT THE TIMING TAB ON THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE, USING A FLASHLIGHT OR A DROP LIGHT. THE LINE ON THE BALANCER SHOULD BE EVEN WITH THE NUMBER ZERO ON THE TIMING TAB. GO TO SEARS AND GET A DISTRIBUTER WRENCH SPECIALTY TOOL THE TOOL IS A 9/16 SIZE HEAD AND THE BOLT GOING INTO THE BLOCK 3/8THS. TAKE THE BOLT COMPLETELY OUT (DO NOT LOOSE IT) SLOWLY GENTLY PULL THE DISTRIBUTER OUT OF ENGINE SOMETIMES DUE TO LACK OF PROPER OIL ENGINE CHANGING THERE IS HARD COROSION AROUND THE INNER STEM OF THE DISTRIBUTER AND YOU REALLY DON'T WANT TO BREAK THE DISTRIBUTER HOUSING SO IF IT DOESN'T COME OUT EASY TAKE YOUR TIME AND WORK IT BACK AND FORTH GENTLY CONSTANTLY PULLING IT UPWARDS UNTIL IT COMES OUT. I HOPE THIS HELPS, GOODLUCK
in most cases the term keeps running means it spits sputters and pings till it complete shuts down. this is a symptom of the timing be retarded to much. i would suggest checking you timing remember to disconnect the computer control to the distributer before checking the timing, not the power wire the other. if the car actually is running with the ignition off the the ignition switch is bad.
no they do not break down
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I would be highly skeptical of buying or using used running shoes. As shoes get used, particularly running shoes, the padding and support break down. As such, your potential risk of injury would go up.
Above the accelerator pedal. It is identified by the blue socket to which the wiring system plugs into. On our I had to lay down on the drivers floor mat to see it.