Use a 1/2in. ratchet with the proper socket for the pulley turn the ratchet to remove the pressure on the belt and remove the old one do the same thing to re-install a new one
correct answer u dont need to adjust the idle pulley u need to use correct socket on tension pully
Hi Guys, This is my first post on this site. I couldn't tell how old this question is, so my reply may only help future DIY mechanics. I just saw this thread while looking for info on another problem on my 92 Cutlass Ciera. I have changed many water pumps over the years on various cars. On this model there is no adjustment on the belt tensioner assembly. Be careful when trying to relieve the belt tension to remove or replace the serpentine belt. The tensioner assembly has a very strong spring. A socket can slip off the hex head bolt on the tensioner pulley with out warning. Make sure you grab the belt where your fingers will not be pinched if the socket slips off. If you use a socket make sure it is a six point to get maximum grip. Cleaning the bolt head and the socket first to remove any oil or grease may also help reduce slipping off. On this car I feel more secure using a pair of flat jaw vice grips extremely tightened on the bolt head instead of using a socket. Before you attach either tool, I recommend removing the 10mm bolt holding the wiring harness below so you can swing it out of your way. This gives you more clearance to use the socket wrench or the vice grips. Slowly raise your tool attached to the bolt head just enough so your belt will slide off the top of the alternator pulley. Then lower the tool slowly until there is no spring tension felt. The bolt on the tensioner has a left hand thread, so there is no concern about loosening the bolt when you lift it. Before replacing the belt, check the tensioner pulley by hand for excess play or wobble. The pulley is easy to replace. (You don't normally have to replace the entire tensioner assembly). With the belt off, attach a six point socket and loosen/remove the bolt by turning it in a clockwise direction. Replace the pulley and tighten the bolt in a counterclockwise direction. Then proceed with replacing the belt.
NOTICE!!!-Some replacement water pumps for the 3.3 6cyl engines in the Cutlass Ciera have a clearance issue and will eventually fail. Delco and aftermarket manufacturers of GM water pumps are constantly trying to revise and combine applications for their pumps to make them more universal. Unfortunately, some of the replacement water pumps sold for the 3.3 6cyl engines don't allow sufficient clearance and the pump impeller or paddle will eventually scrape the interior of the housing that is attached to the engine block. As most of you know, who have had experience replacing water pumps, even on a good day it can still be a pain in the _ _ _ with bolts snapping off, leaks, etc. The last one I changed on a 3.3 engine, I had to remove the tensioner pulley to get enough clearance so I could position the pump in place. Two weeks after I installed an aftermarket replacement water pump, I began to hear a squealing/scraping noise. I assumed by mistake that the new noise was an AC compressor problem. After I replaced the AC compressor the noise was still there. I removed the water pump and then saw some scrape marks inside the housing that is attached to the engine block. I decided to purchase a brand new Delco water pump from a GM dealer for several times the aftermarket price. I decided to position the new water pump temporarily in place without the gasket. I snugged up some of the bolts by hand. I could not turn the pump shaft until I loosened the bolts further. Apparently when I originally installed the after market pump with a gasket and adhesive there was just enough clearance. After two weeks the adhesive and gasket must have gradually compressed a few thousands of an inch, enough to allow the paddle to scrape the interior housing and create the noise. Luckily I discovered this before I completed the installation again. The dealer verified that the new Delco pump he gave me was the correct one listed for that engine. I could not locate a thicker gasket and I was hesitant to use two standard gaskets for fear of possible leaks. So, I used some grinding wheel and sanding attachments on my electric drill and removed some of the soft metal on the interior of the housing that is attached to the engine block. It was a fairly time consuming process. I used a black magic marker to color the inside of the housing several times so I could see where the paddle was scrapping and to avoid removing more metal then needed. After I removed enough of the material so the paddle would clear without the gasket, I vacuumed and wiped out all remaining metallic dust. I then proceeded to complete the installation process using a WP gasket and adhesive. I also applied a locktite wax type thread sealant to all the water pump bolts in place to minimize the possibility of leaks. Many of the bolts actually thread into the wet fluid portion of the cooling system. So, if the proper thread sealant is not used, leaks will probably occur after the cooling system heats up and becomes pressurized. The water pump on my engine has performed fine for the past two years since I changed it.