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You use 1" more than the waist you're sewing for. This allows for a 1" overlap to sew the elastic together securely. Answer two: Per this entry from Threads Magazine online:

The length of elastic should be shorter than the waist seam (after seams and darts are sewn). How much shorter depends on the combination of fabric, lining and elastic. On lightweight fabric with lightweight lining, use clear elastic, and pull the elastic gently as you sew it in place. If the fashion fabric is corduroy or cotton twill with a medium lining, use braided elastic, and stretch the elastic more as you sew it in place because heavy or firm fabrics put more pressure on the elastic. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3740/how-to-shop-for-elastic

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Q: When sewing a waistband how do you determine how much elastic to use?
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