It sounds as if you have a vacuum leak. Try plugging your intake carefully with a towel and then check again using someone as assistance to increase RPM. If the engine still dies then take notice of the position of the pedal at which point of height it dies at. There is a sensor called TPS or Throttle Position Sensor. If it fails then bad readings to the computer will create uneven fuel mixture. Is the check engine light on? It may need looking at by a certified mechanic.
Under the dash attached to the brake pedal lever.
The whole pedal assembly must be removed. There are two (2} 17MM bolts that hold the assembly in position against the tunnel. When they are removed the assembly is pulled left away from the tunnel and tilted so that the clutch cable which is inside the tunnel can be brought out side the tunnel hole and unhooked to release the pedal assembly. The clutch,Brake and gas pedal are all together in one unit
i have a pedel boat and gorilla's stole it and took it apart and i put it back together... so yes they arnt put togetehr when you get them !
The foot part of a bicycle is a pedal (the same as the foot control in a car).The sound-alike word is the verb peddle, which means to sell things.
It sounds to be like the spring that brings the pedel back up might have came off or broke but not sure cause I know that happened to my truck
Push your emergency brake pedel down just 1 or 2 clicks and they will stay off. Just ignore the brake warning light on the dash.
the brake pedel pushes a switch right on top of the pedel lever it can come loose or go bad. check fuses first
ther is a switch in side the car on the brake pedel more than likely it is sticking if you lift the pedel the lights should go out ==More Info== The previous respondant is correct about the brake switch. It is located under the dash, behind the brake pedal's arm that comes down from the arm's pivot point above. The switch has a little spring-loaded plunger that the arm presses "in" when you put your foot on the brake. The switch has a threaded portion on the body with a nut you can loosen. I believe the switch has "disconnect-able" wires so you can pull it out for inspection, repair, or replacement. The plunger may be dirty or roughened up in which case you can clean and recheck for smooth action before returning it to service in your vehicle. If you have a continuity tester, you can check for continuity as the plunger goes in and out to make sure it's working right. There is one other possiblity, the body of the switch may be adjustable to make sure the brake pedal is going to be able to press it in when you brake and let it out all the way when you take your foot off. The threaded part of the switch may allow adjustment of the switch so the plunger is fully extended when the brake arm is at its normal return position. If the pedal is still pushing on the plunger when your foot off the pedal, then you may be able to adjust the body of the switch so that the plunger is allowed to fully extend when there is no force on the pedal. This will allow the switch to "open" and turn the brake lights off. ther is a switch in side the car on the brake pedel more than likely it is sticking if you lift the pedel the lights should go out
The Parking Brake
have some one pump and hold the brake pedel and bleed both lines at the mastercyc and bleed all the brakes on all 4 wheels. if it keeps going down you have a leak somewhere.
brake light switch is mounted by the brake pedel remove lower panel above brake pedel and then you will see the switch should be able to turn the switch to replace
in lakes rivers sea and all they will evaprate and go and change into water vapour and come down as rain from the clouds and how you pedel in the cycle it will be going on like how you pedel in the cycle this is called water cycle