You can visit a local auto parts shop or a repair shop. First, read the manual to understand the specific horn pad for your car.
about 5mm then after that they will get hot and squeak
The break pad.
A pad horn
To replace the horn on a 94 Toyota Corolla, you will need to remove the horn pad from the steering wheel. Once all screws have been loosened, you can lift the pad and replace the inner button, then just put the horn pad back on.
If the Montero's horn sounds continuously when doors are locked with the remote, this is due a horn pad failure. To repair, replace the horn pad assembly.
The Mazda 3 is 2mm, probably the same - 2mm
probably a short in the wires somewhere More than likely, it is a short located in the horn pad inside steering wheel unit. Probable failed horn pad/ air bag cover
junk yard
There is three areas you can look at, relays, horns and horn pad; unfortunately it boils down to the most expensive one of them - HORN PAD. The problem arises from having a stuck horn pad which turns out to be with the airbag; all one piece. OUCH!!!! Pricing for a horn pad and airbag is about $1,200 plus labor, rough estimate $2,000
usually it's the horn pad that fails. that's why the horn goes off. you need the replace the horn pad to fix the problem. or you could just disconnect the horn like most people do to shut it up!!! Be aware that these models of fords are designed to have the horn make a strange noise, if you try to lock doors and they are slightly ajar. The 'Smart Lock' will make the horn sound, to let you know that the door is ajar and that the vehicle is not locked. I agree that in this case, the issue is more than likely caused by the 'Horn Pad', but cannot agree with disconnecting the horn. I find that the horn is a vital part of any vehicle and would suggest that the 'PAD' be replaced. May be expensive to fix, but you never know just when you will rely on your horn to save your life and it's not working.
The red flag that answers this question is "in the middle of a cold night." Inside the pad in the center of the steering wheel are the contacts which close the horn circuit when the pad is depressed. Until someone depresses the pad, the contacts are held apart by a piece of foam. The foam deteriorates with age, and "in the middle of a cold night," which is when the horn blares, the foam further shrinks, allowing the contacts to close the switch and sound the horn. Possible solutions: 1) Replace old foam with new foam, and you may get another 15 or so years normal service, depending on how often you further deteriorate the foam by pressing on it. 2) For a temporary fix, remove the fuse. The problem with this is that you will now have no brake lights, not only a ticketable violation in any jurisdiction, but dangerous as well. The fusebox layout was obviously designed by a committee, as it is inconceivable that any one person could have been so stupid as the run a horn and brakelights on the same fuse circuit. 3) Cut the wire, or if you can find it, disconnect the horn wire at a junction point. The horn itself (in a '93 Protege, and, I'm guessing, in a '92 as well), is located in the right front fender area. Open the hood, look down there, and you'll see it. Unless you plan on having your vehicle inspected by the law, you don't need your horn anyway. It is a required piece of equipment where I live, but I never use it anyway.
Lift the car with a car jack, remove the tire and set it aside, remove the brake shoe/caliper, and remove the old brake pad. Put in the new brake pad, replace the brake shoe/caliper, put the tire back on the car and lower the car to the ground.