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I rebuild these top motors as a side job/hobby. I wrote this basic instruction sheet for a customer who asked a year or two ago. It should get you going in the right direction. I can be contacted at jimz466@AOL.com or via www.topmotorrepair.com if you have other questions.

Here's the basic procedure I use when I swap one of these motors out.

1. It's easiest to do while the top is in the raised position. If the top is currently down, it can be raised manually by using one person on each side and lifting it slowly. The fluid from the top of the cylinders will slowly bypass the pump internals.

2. The pumps can normally be accessed by removing the back seat or by going through the trunk. If going through the trunk, the trunk trim, which hides the back seat, will need to be removed. This is normally held in place by several of those little plastic trim screw devices. After removing this, the pump assembly will be in plain sight, located in the center, behind the rear seat.

3. The red and yellow wires go into a rubber plug, which is connected to the cars wiring harness. Disconnect this plug.

4. On Mustangs, the black ground wire is normally attached to the car chassis using a machine screw directly to the left of the pump assembly. I've seen this screw be a Phillips head screw and I've seen it sometimes be a hex head screw which can be removed using a 5/16 or 8mm wrench. Remove this screw. On LeBarons, this ground wire is normally connected to the chassis behind the pump out of sight. It can be removed using a 5/16 or 8mm wrench or socket, but will need to be done by feel. It�s also easier to do after performing step 5. An alternate method would be to remove the bolt at the other end of the wire where it attaches to the pump motor. This may be the easiest way on LeBarons.

5. The pump is held in place using four arrow head shaped rubber mounts. These mounts will pop loose merely by pulling or prying the pump assembly upward. When accessing the pump via the trunk, the pump is much easier to work on after the mounts are loose, as this allows you to move the pump around for access to the hose fittings.

6. Place some rags or paper towels under the pump where you'll be disconnecting the hose fittings. These fittings can be loosened using a 1/2 inch or 13mm wrench. One end of the pump assembly will have a triangular shaped bolt head in the center with a rubber plug above it. This is the reservoir. Keep this end even with or preferably lower than the hose fittings. This will minimize/prevent any fluid from the reservoir from leaking out the holes left after removing the fittings. You will have some minor drips come from the fittings when they are removed. This is not a problem and is completely normal. After removing the hose fittings, you should be able to take the pump assembly out of the trunk. you can set it down and as long as it's level, there shouldn't be any significant leakage. The fluid in your assembly may be clear. This is Type A transamission fluid and is almost impossible to obtain. I've spoken with several dealers and they all use Mercon/Dexron ATF for all their convertible top jobs.

7. Installation of the new pump can now take place. Any air bubbles in the lines caused by the dripping of fluid will be immediately filled after installing the pump merely by cycling the top a couple times. No special procedure is required.

Thanks again, Jim aka topmotorrepair on eBay

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Q: Where is and how do you replace the convertible top motor for a 1992 LeBaron?
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