I have a RV built on a 1994 E-350 Ford chassis with the 7.5 liter engine. I finally found the SPark OUTput (SPOUT) connector behind the driver side battery. It is a gray plug in a black socket. It was taped to the wiring harness that goes to the ignition control module (ICM) which is also behind the battery. The tape completely covered both the plug and socket making it very hard to find.
The timing belt on a 4 cylinder Accord can be changed by removing the accessory belts, valve cover, crank pulley, timing covers, timing belt and then reversing the procedure. For more detailed instructions check out the Honda Timing Belt Tech Article at DenLorsTools.com, it also gives how to tips and common mistakes to avoid. == ==
Not sure if the 95 is the same as the 93. On my '93 there is a timing advance wire you have to unplug (brown wire near the distributor on the firewall with a plug connector.) Start it up with the wire unplugged and set timing to 0 degrees BTDC. Turn off engine. Plug wire back in and computer takes over. There should be a sticker on the radiator shroud that gives timing and spark gap settings. From Haynes manual:On later models, the connector is located near the distributor (except for 1995 models; on these, it's located under the dash, below the glove box). Tan wire with a black stripe.
The procedure will be beneficial to the patient's health.
Not sure if the 95 is the same as the 93. On my '93 there is a timing advance wire you have to unplug (brown wire near the distributor on the firewall with a plug connector.) Start it up with the wire unplugged and set timing to 0 degrees BTDC. Turn off engine. Plug wire back in and computer takes over. There should be a sticker on the radiator shroud that gives timing and spark gap settings.From Haynes manual:On later models, the connector is located near the distributor (except for 1995 models; on these, it's located under the dash, below the glove box). Tan wire with a black stripe.
There should be a sticker on the radiator shroud that gives timing and spark gap values. All the Chevys I've done say 0 degrees btdc. Warm up the engine. Turn it off and unplug timing wire. On later models, the connector is located near the distributor (except for 1995 models; on these, it's located under the dash, below the glove box). Tan wire with a black stripe. Set timing to 0. Turn engine off. Plug timing wire back together. Reset ECM. ECM will recalibrate after driving a while.
To start with, the ignition and afterwards, a sustained supply of fuel and oxidant.
The car will stop running
The purpose of the general format and layout is that it gives you a standard procedure.
yes, the color is lighter, the connector is different but it gives the same voltage.
Timing is off.
Check the Auto Zone website it gives you detail infor How to do it
If an engine has compression, ignition and fuel, it will run. Find out which isn't there and you've solved the mystery. If you're certain about the timing being right and a good, hot spark, check for fuel pressure. The fuel pump might not be working. Usually compression gives you other symptoms, but if the timing belt/chain has slipped you might have poor compression. If you have no fuel pressure, it could be the pump, a sensor, the filter or a relay or fuse. Of course there are also many other possibilitie, so just enhance your sleuthing skills and good luck.